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Old 12-14-2006, 07:23 PM   #11 (permalink)
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You want a clothes iron, not a soldering iron.

Place a damp rag on top of the dent, and use the steam (extra steam button, if your iron has it), to raise the dent (hopefully - it's not 100% guaranteed).

Linseed should be mixed with mineral spirits for only the first few coats. After that, linseed should be applied without dilution.

I never had a problem with my rags overheating. I must be the only one who never had that problem, by the number of people who have warned stringently about it. But, if I were you, I'd play it safe rather than sorry.
Bingo.
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Old 12-18-2006, 12:24 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Ok in reading about linseed oil. I have to ask if it is the best to use?
Perhaps I should have asked this instead.

Why do alot of people use linseed? I figure stain would be better. Or am I missing something?
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Old 12-18-2006, 07:22 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Perhaps I should have asked this instead.

Why do alot of people use linseed? I figure stain would be better. Or am I missing something?
Stain and oil are two different types of finishes… but they are not two that must be used exclusively. Also stains are usually not used all by themselves because they only affect color, not protect (unless it is a stain/polyurethane mix or similar).

The Oil will deepen and darken the wood’s natural colors and protect the wood. If the wood has dark and light grains it will darken the dark and bring forward the light. It will also make the colors richer and deeper.

Stain on the other hand is what it sounds like… stain. You will change the wood’s color by an outside color source. It is not just brining out the wood’s natural colors, it is changing them to something else (unless you use a stain that matches the wood you are working with, but then you get an artificial deepening of the colors). You can also stain AND oil wood and I tend to do that a lot.

For most wood projects you will not want to simply stain the wood and leave it like that. You will want to add some sort of other protecting agent to it; wax, urethane, polyurethane, varnish, etc.). But for paintball grips I advise staying away from these finishes except for wax. Paintball paint tends to mess up a good urethane/polyurethane finish. Sure you get a great looking set of grips in virtually no time, but keeping them looking that way is another story. So I suggest oil and wax. It is easier to maintain and great for the wood.

I hope that helps.
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Old 12-18-2006, 11:02 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Personally, I prefer Tung oil to BLO.
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Old 12-18-2006, 11:11 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Personally, I prefer Tung oil to BLO.
I have both and use both. It depends on the needs.

But as pointed out by another, with BLO it is good to thin it with mineral spirits to a 50/50 mix for the first few applications. Then go to 100% BLO.
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Old 12-18-2006, 11:39 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Any recomendations on firearms wood, where it may be subject to heat, and or has been immersed in cosmoline for years?

In particular, Teak.
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Old 12-18-2006, 11:45 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Any recomendations on firearms wood, where it may be subject to heat, and or has been immersed in cosmoline for years?

In particular, Teak.
You mean after you have removed the cosmoline and are wanting to refinish it again?

Britt gave a good cosmoline removal method, and teak is great with boating finishes/restorers and of course tongue oil. As for being subject to heat…. Do you mean as in direct heat or radiant heat. And if radiant heat, high temperatures or just constant heat? What is the purpose of the wood (as in application)?
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Old 12-23-2006, 12:57 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Ok since I have a KP on its way to me, I would like to start prepping for work that I can do to it. Namely refinishing the stock.

What do I need as essentials, and what other items will I need?

Thank you
Ben
I found these online and stored them in my email for future reference. They appear to contain some very good information. If you are going to refinish a stock, you will want to at least read them over.

http://www.outdoorlife.com/outdoor/d...658527,00.html

http://hunting.about.com/od/guns/a/aastockrefinish.htm

I may get out my KP2 rifles and get the stocks refinished over the holidays this year.
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Old 02-12-2007, 04:11 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Thank you all for the advice.

Last night I had sanded the finish off by hand. I am still teetering on the edge of oiling the stock or to have it duracoated.

There is a company here in town (bell armor) that does duracoating. I have seen there work first hand on several occasions and they definitly do a good job.

At the same time I have seen a few KP's at various events and I really like the stocks I have seen.
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