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agentSmith 03-03-2007 10:15 PM

My new Miltec G2
Recently I bought myself a new gun to replace my worn Armotech Zeus G2. I've fired well over 30,00 rounds of paint through the old Zeus and while it's still working okay now, it's days are numbered.
I have had an ACP, a PTX and a Warsensor G2+, all since I got this original Armotech and none have measured up and so I kept looking. Recently Miltec(who were already importing milsim rifle-type markers that were identical and parts compatible with the old Armotech long guns), announced they were reintroducing the original Zeus G2 as the Miltec G2, so I had to see for myself.

I've mentioned at more length in other places why I prefer the Armo/Miltec design to the other JABBs, but I can sum it up as parts availability. All of the other pistol designs are riddled with proprietary threads and proprietary parts and worst of all, proprietary pierce pins! Between 6 mags and enough parts to have a decent toolbox you could spend what a custom piece might cost you!
The Armo and now Miltec read like this. Spyder cupseal, spyder valve spring, spyder valve, tippmann prolite mainspring and a CCI Phantom pierce pin! The CCI brand pierce pins can last 1,000 changes instead of the average 100 I get with warsensor types(I can replace the seals but the pins wear out) and I can order them from Phantom online or call CCI and get a pierce pin for $6!

The threads for the co2 plug(which for the metric other versions will run you $20!) on a miltec are ASA threads! So any easily available five dollar ASA plug can get you back in the action.

It also still has the M1911 grip frame. I'm a big fan of the 45 grip to put it mildly. I will tell anyone that excels with any other grip, that had they spent the same amount of time training with a 45 grip they'd be a better shot. That's why 96 years after 1911, SIGarms are bringing out a 1911 model true to the original as Smith and Wesson has also recently done. You can't improve some things.

doglb 03-04-2007 12:55 AM

agent-with the Miltec G1, do you know if the folding stock Warsensor makes will fit? I know it fits the Warsensor G1 & G2-

Deadfall 03-05-2007 10:44 AM

Interesting bit of info about the Pro-Lite mainspring. Do they manufacture the springs themselves or are they simply using surplus springs? It'd be nice to know that someone is still making the mainspring for the Pro-Lite. I would've figured that the Pro-Lite spring was too long for an STBB.

Chappy 03-05-2007 11:34 AM

I think they use carbine/98/a5 springs, not prolite springs. A prolite spring wouldn't fit in my Core ZX, which is a g1 clone.

agentSmith 03-05-2007 11:54 AM

I guess I wasn't very clear, sorry about that guys!

The Carbine/98/A5 spring is too short and requires bigtime shimming. I use an actual extra section of another spring I chopped up for that purpose.

The Pro-lite springs, if you can get them, are too long but can be trimmed to work on their own without little extra sections that get lost during disassembly/reassembly for cleaning.

Aside from length, by the way, the Pro-Lite and Carbine/98/A5 springs are identical.

I hope that makes more sense!

Yes, the pin held velocity adjuster you see on my Armotech is a mod I put on it. The original V/A was threaded and I went through two and said the heck with it, I bought a Warsensor V/A and drilled a hole in my Armotech for it. This Warsensor V/A also fits in the Miltec G2.


prien007 03-06-2007 01:39 AM

This is a very good read. Do you mind telling us where you picked up that Miltec, I have interest in picking up another semi-pistol, but have had a hard time choosing between the Ariakons, Warsensors, ect. Currently use a USP.

agentSmith 03-06-2007 09:53 AM

There are several places to get them now, for instance is a great seller, but at the time I ordered mine I went with

Great Place to buy it. I called the Miltec US phone number from one of the ads in APG and the phone rang at xtremez store, so I figured I was safe. I've only seen one G1 on ebay and as you can imagine G1 and G2 are pretty regular searches for me:LMAO:

Because I need a good surface on top of the mag to mill the front loading port the way I like and a good amount of metal on the front co2 section to mill the side dropout, I prefer this model.

Another thing I like about this model over the Warsensor is the balance of it. The Warsensor attempts to balance the Zeus G2+ like a real firearm handgun by putting a very heavy grip frame on it(Warsensor at bottom).

The Armo/Miltecs have a carbon fiber cutout grip, while the Warsensor has an aluminum grip that is not skeletonized at all! The Warsensor grip is supposedly a 'beretta' style. I ground that beavertail which made the gun shoot low for me off and the Warsensor grip was then identical in shape, size and width to the 45 grip, so I wonder if it's truly a beretta copy. The square front trigger guard of the Warsensor also hindered holstering motions, especially crouched in a bunker, like the excessive milling and top mounted magfollowers of the Ariakons.

I think paintball pistols have suffered the most when it comes to applying their firearm counterpart's principles incorrectly. When the recoil is light(like varmint rifles and paintguns), a front heavy balance will improve consistency. With Heavy relative recoil, like shotguns and handguns, the gun must be balanced to ride out the wave of recoil.


agentSmith 03-06-2007 09:59 AM

Here's a little better shot of the front loading port:


prien007 03-07-2007 07:45 PM

Thats another question I had, and as I'm sure you have written on it before so I'll try not to be redundant, but why do you prefer the front loading hole compare to the rear plug. If in fact the rear plug is where you load the paint normally. I have never seen these up close so I'm not even sure how you normally load paint. Thanks

agentSmith 03-07-2007 09:22 PM

No Problem prien007,

I believe it may have been the old MCB where I discussed this with my original Armo. The plugs you see in the backs of the magazines in the pic I posted in my first post in this thread are the normal method and it takes a long time.

Rear load:
1. push the spring back
2. remove the rear plug
3. pour in paint(over the breech requiring the the gun to be tilted)
4. replace the rear plug
5. release the spring

Front load:
1. push the spring back
2. pour in paint
3. release the spring

That's obvious enough, but most people don't think it's a big deal because they stop at that calculation, but it's bigger than that. First the front load allows you to load muzzle up-gun ready instead of hunched over, gun pointing at the dirt(body language that will get you shot if I'm around), if I'm firing at any range at all I have the gun tilted enough that I don't even need the spring. I can leave it locked back and simply pour paint in as fast as I can shoot.
Second, replacing the plug requires you to look at the gun, even with the quick cap installed on a mag, you have to make sure it doesn't spin in such a way that it blocks the magazine off. Using the front load I literally don't have to look at all and routinely reload at a dead run with no fear of mishap.
The same applies to the dropout for the co2. It's a small savings in time really but the big deal is you no longer have to remove the co2 plug entirely, which means you don't have to try to start the threads on that cheese-metal plug while people are shooting at you!!! Starting the threads reliably requires looking at your gun and having to look at your gun gets you shot! Nobody else has to look at their gun, a pistol player can afford it least of all but is most likely to do it.


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