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|05-27-2007, 11:59 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2006
Zeus type pistol maintenance(56kdeath)
The modern 12 gram is very dirty inside, this doesn't affect a pump player much, but to someone using a semiauto pistol, who pierces 20 or more 12grams in a day it means you have to strip the gun and clean it after every big game or playday. This is after approx 25 12grams:
Taking apart the Armotech/Warsensor/Miltec/Core is very straightforward if you have the right tools.
First I take off the magazine, co2 plug and grip frame, then I remove the pin and take the velocity adjuster, guide rod and mainspring out the back, then gently slide out the hammer and bolt.
Next I remove the pierce pin and here's the first and most important tool, the Pin Tool:
at one end it has a spanner wrench that fits in the pierce pin and spins it right out. The Pin Tool is long enough that you can change pierce pins in your gun in seconds. Once I have the pierce pin out I remove the set screw that holds the pierce pin block in the gun.
At the opposite end from the pierce pin wrench is a threaded section that matches the threads of the pierce pins(different sizes, I'll explain that later). After you remove the pierce pin you flip the wrench over and insert it into the pierce pin block like this:
This lets you easily remove and replace the pierce pin block. My method is to get the pierce pin block started on the way in(until it just touches the valve spring inside) then stop. I remove the pin tool and shine a small light down through the pierce pin block to make sure I can't see the spring out of position. If the valve spring(the spring on your cupseal) seats into the cup in the back of your pierce pin block correctly, you won't be able to see it-if the spring is out of position it will cross the hole and a long thin pick can be used to push the spring into the right position. If the valve spring gets crooked in there, it will take only a few shots to wreck the spring, once this spring is crushed the gun will start erratic leaking and lose shots per 12gram.
You can see why it's important to get that spring lined up right, so when I replace the cupseal and spring during reassembly I push the spring around on the cupseal until it points straight up and will match the pierce pin block:
That's a silver star cupseal(most guns come with these) being replaced with a black magic cupseal. It simply screws onto the small metal post. The black magic cupseals are slightly softer and in my opinion work with less leakage even on days when I may shoot over a bag of paint through my pistol.
Once I've got the cupseal and spring out, I remove the flathead setscrew that holds the valve in place.
Another tool I use is home made, a punch to remove the valve from the gun.
I made the tip small enough to drive the valve out from the back without hitting the lip of the cupseal hole, but big enough that I could use it to drive the valve back in without marring the edges of the holes in the valve where the cupseals have to seal:
Because I work on guns for friends of mine I have the Pin Tool for Miltec/Core/Armotech(CCI Phantom as well) threads as well as the metric threaded tool needed for the Warsensor brands.
So make sure you get the right thread pattern for your brand!
The Warsensors use a weird pierce pin(the one on the left, with the shoulder):
These will occasionally jam 12grams into the gun, NOT good!
I personally recommend changing these to the miltec/phantom type, the CCI brand pins($6 from CCI) last 1,000s of co2s instead of 100s I find the other brands lasting. This requires retapping the pierce pin block to 1/4-28 and makes a Warsensor zeus need the miltec type wrench.
Once it's all apart I wash it up with hot water and blow it dry with my compressor, another tool that comes in handy is this 'combination spring tool' which works great for pulling orings as well as reaching through the pierce pin block for the spring.
We play Pistol and we encourage the Few despite the discouragement of the Many.
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