RAM .43cal Desert Eagle Question
I have a RAM Desert Eagle I picked up, and need to replace the 2 of the seals. they are the flat ones that the slide rides on. Rap4 has the parts back ordered till the end of October.
My Question is will the o-rings from any of the other rap4 .43cal pistols work with this marker? I cant post the size of the o-rings in question because they fell apart when I took the marker apart to clean it.
nope i have not seen another APS markers with seals under the slides, its the none shell ejector version?
yeah its the one that does not eject shells, the seals i am looking for are found here RAM Desert Eagle Pistol Seal Kit
its the 2 black ones i need.
Lol my proshop hasn't sold any of these. Kind of because the all get returned the next day
I would just sell it. from what I'm told try tend to jam a lot and it tears though orings like a angry bear.lol
I want to keep it (its kinda cool) and I feel I can get it working right..... once I get it working.
The two seals you are talking about serve no purpose in the functioning of the marker, and you only need one of them anyway. I have had 5 Rap4 .43 pistols, and the internals are all the same, just the package they come in is different. I haven't had a Desert Eagle, but I have seen them taken apart and the valve is the same.
I say the seals are not important because the only thing they do is seal the chamber that pressurizes to throw the slide back. If they are both missing, the marker will still function fine, but it will start earlier to not recock the marker. By recock I mean throw the slide back far enough to chamber anther ball and lock the hammer back down. Missing these two black seals does not make the marker leak, it just makes it less efficient.
If you have air coming down your barrel or you hear a hissing sound from the back of the slide, this is not from those two black seals on the outside of the valve assembly, it is the valve itself that is buggered up. To fix the valve leak you have to take apart the valve. (This voids any warranty from Rap4, so be careful what you are doing. But honestly their warranty repair work is allegedly garbage so just fix it yourself) That brass thing screwed into the back of the valve with the pin sticking out of the middle needs to be taken out. To do this you have to get a very wide flathead screwdriver or the special valve disassembly tool that Rap4 sells. DO NOT USE ANYTHING THAT DOES NOT FIT RIGHT, AS IT WILL CHEW UP THE SOFT BRASS AND MAKE A HUGE MESS, I SPEAK FROM EXPERIENCE. Or, just use the right tool for the right job. When you have the threaded brass plug out, you will see a white or yellowish-clear seal inside of it. Pull the end of the brass plug, and replace that seal. Or, just flip the seal around if you don't have a replacement one, because the backside will be okay to use. Next, take out the bored shaft running down the middle of the valve, then take out the spring on the front of it. You will see a small metal washer in the end of the valve, try to get that out by pushing from the other side or pulling on it with a small metal hook. Next, pull the o-ring out that is beneath the small metal washer and replace the o-ring. Make sure that the o-ring you put in is very well lubricated with oil. Now put the washer back, then the spring, then the ported tube, then the brass plug. Reassemble your marker and try it then. But, oil every single o-ring you come across very well, and make sure you put some oil on the top of your co2 cylinder when you screw it in. These markers drink oil like pigs, and if you don't constantly oil them they will start to squeal and leak.
I hope this helps, but just ask if you need more help, I know a lot about these .43 pistols. You will very rarely need to go into the valve assembly that is in the grip of the marker, but if you do I can help you with that too, because those valves are incredibly hard to maintenance.
Yes, this is why I and many others no longer like Rap4, when once we raised their banner with accolade and song.
Yes, the two black seals, the white seal, and the o-ring inside the valve are cross-compatible between all RAM pistols. If you buy the 10$ RAM Pistol Seal Kit, it has everything you need to get back in business. If you buy from spiderwebsusa.com, they have cheaper shipping to Canada too.
It worked great for about 5 mags and then no luck.
these o-rings are so slender and flat (probably why they tear). I changed the slide return spring, polished the slide rails all to no avail.
I am very sad :( and mad :mad:.
One thing to consider if your Combat is having trouble is the barrel system. The slide must blow completely back in order for the latches on the top of the inside of the slide near the front to grab the block connected to the inner barrel. When the slide racks forward it pulls this block and the brass inner barrel to allow another round from the mag to load into the chamber. If the latches on the top of the slide are worn down (which they probably are because they are cheap, soft metal) then your Combat will fail to load a round or half take the barrel and chop rounds.
When your Combat is running out of gas, it may throw the slide back like normal, but it will not reset the hammer or grab the inner barrel. So it will seem like the marker is malfunctioning, but it is just low on gas. They die very wierdly, they don't blow back and forth like a blowback spyder or tippy.
Let me know if this helps, or if you were thinking about something else.
if I run into any problem I will be sending you a message. if push comes to shove I can always drive down to London and bribe you to have a look at it. one other question where do you get your replacement o-rings from? Rap4 wants a crazy amount for shipping.
When I put a new capsule in at the field it wouldn't cycle the slide. Worked great at home ...
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