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Sidearms Bring on the Pistols! From Splatmasters to modern day semi-auto pistols.

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Old 03-22-2014, 09:13 PM   #11 (permalink)
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It doesn't, it just keeps it from going too far back. Going forward shouldn't be an issue unless the pierce block is stuck somehow.
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Old 03-25-2014, 10:06 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Just to double-double check, you have removed the small allen set screw that holds the pierce block in? You should see the brass of the block down that hole. I have used a straight icepick type pick to start the pierce block moving by pushing it down that hole and prying.

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Old 03-25-2014, 10:22 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Right-o, got that part. The pierce pin removal was all that was confusing me but it sounds like I can take the whole block/valve assembly out without removing the pin.

Thanks folks, just gotta find the time to do this now. And hope I don't screw up re-tapping the pin, lol
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Old 04-01-2014, 03:16 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Okay, got the G2 apart and I'll do the G2+ tomorrow. I dripped some AKA oil into the lower tube (with the gun standing up), let it soak through, removed the set screws, and popped out the internals with a soft plastic rod. Much easier to change the pierce pin that way, lol.

More/new questions (!):
- I know the valve and pierce pin bodies use tank o-rings; should I get the softer rubber kind or urethane?
- Any advantage to replacing the whole valve unit (if that's even possible)?
- Any recommendations on how to remove the cup seal from the stem and install a new one without chewing the crap out of either/both?
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Old 04-01-2014, 09:28 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Use urethane. I dot believe there would be any advantage to changing the valve, just rebuild it and go. If you could find one of the Alamo City Paintball delrin bolts for it I would highly recommend it, as its much tighter to the upper tube wall and increased velocity/efficiency a ton on mine.
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