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Sidearms Bring on the Pistols! From Splatmasters to modern day semi-auto pistols.

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Old 03-21-2014, 12:21 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Zeus G2+ Disassembly

Hey folks,

I searched but couldn't find a solid thread on how to disassemble the Zeus (trying to fix a leaky cupseal). AgentSmith has a really good one here but it involves several custom tools; anyone know of one that's a little more straightforward?

Thanks,
Matt
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Old 03-21-2014, 04:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The Warsensor website actually has the manuals up still and they go over how to remove the cup seal. Not sure how that jibes with the more complicated instructions in agentSmith's post, though. Different ways of skinning a cat?
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Old 03-21-2014, 06:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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There is one way the opposite of getting the pierce pin block out and that is to take the gripframe off and the v/a, hammer and bolt with spring out of the back, then take a straight punch and remove the crossing pin that holds the valve in at the bottom of the body. This will let valve, cupseal and valvespring come out the back. To get it back in right is very hard, so I don't recommend it.

I've got the pierce pin out with a small flatbladed screwdriver, then once you remove the tiny allen screw from outside that goes into the pierce pin block you can hook the block out of there with anything that will fit through and catch.

Hope that helps!

Rob
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Old 03-21-2014, 06:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Ah, ok, so the pierce pin block actually locks the valve body in place? The manual kinda left that out - they made it seem like you could take off the grip frame, pull the retaining screw, and then just slide out the pin block and valve body together.
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Old 03-21-2014, 06:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Yep, that's what all the drama in my thread was about. you pretty much have to get that pierce pin block out to do anything with those pistols. The orings go bad on that block a lot too.
Once you get the pierce pin block out, the valve spring and cupseal just fall out, then you tap the valve from the back, right out where the pierce block was. that way you can leave that cross pin in.

Rob
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Old 03-21-2014, 06:59 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Got it. Not sure what I'll do yet since those tools are extinct. Maybe I can get the pin out with a notched screwdriver, match the threads to a long bolt, and use that with a... something... to pull the block.
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Old 03-21-2014, 09:09 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I gave away mine long ago with the miltec.

Nowadays I hook it out of the with one of these, a great tool for any paintballers toolbox!

Amazon.com: Spring Tool, Hook and Lifter, 8-1/2 In: Home Improvement

Anything hooky that'll fit in there will work, tho.

Taking out a section in the center of a long screwdriver blade works for the pierce pin.


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Old 03-21-2014, 09:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Ah, I thought you'd need something threaded to apply enough torque without bending the tool. Thanks for the tip!
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Old 03-22-2014, 01:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I've NEVER removed the valve retaining pin in any STBB, my Zeus included. No special tools either. All I did was remove the hammer, spring, v/a, frame, then loosen the retaining set screws for the valve and pierce block, and push the backside of the valve with a chopstick or wooden dowel and everything, pierce block, valve, and valve spring came out the front.

Granted mine had a side dropout so I don't know if having an enclosed CO2 chamber would complicate that process, or if the G2 were somehow different, all my Zeus guns were G1 bodied. Also I'd guess if the gun was old and dry enough the seals might make it hard to do it my way but I never had a problem on 3 different Zeus guns.
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Old 03-22-2014, 09:15 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PistolRogue View Post
I've NEVER removed the valve retaining pin in any STBB, my Zeus included. No special tools either. All I did was remove the hammer, spring, v/a, frame, then loosen the retaining set screws for the valve and pierce block, and push the backside of the valve with a chopstick or wooden dowel and everything, pierce block, valve, and valve spring came out the front.
That's what I was wondering about. It doesn't look like the pin does anything to hold the valve body in.
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