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Sidearms Bring on the Pistols! From Splatmasters to modern day semi-auto pistols.

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Old 01-21-2009, 08:33 PM   #1 (permalink)
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zeus type spring tuning

Tuning the springs in zeus type pistols to get the maximum number of shots is tedious but worth the trouble.

First, the basics of assembly/disassembly are covered in here: Zeus type pistol maintenance(56kdeath)

For tuning purpose I take the gun apart until the only things left in are the pierce pin block, valve spring, cupseal and valve. I shake it really hard to see if I can get the cupseal to rattle.
A. If it rattles, I pull the pierce pin block out and lay the valve spring next to a ruler, then lengthen it slightly by stretching it by hand and checking it to get it a MM or 2 longer. I reassemble it and try again until it doesn't rattle.

B. If it doesn't rattle, I pull the pierce pin block out and lay the valve spring next to a ruler, then shorten it slightly by crushing it by hand and checking it to get it a MM or 2 shorter. I reassemble it and try again until it rattles. once it rattles slightly, I take it back out and lengthen it back slightly.

If this spring is too loose it bounces costing you gas. If it's too long it requires a superstrong mainspring(this means the gun is hard to recock and gases out early because of that) and may keep velocity too low for usefulness besides.

Once I get the valve spring right, the mainspring is adjusted(ruler method)using a chronograph to get my gun shooting so that fully tight on the velocity adjuster is 290, giving me a good window of adjustment with the screw.

Any questions and I'll be happy to field them as best I can.

Rob
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Old 01-21-2009, 09:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Don't the springs just lose their tension and go back to the old length?
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Old 01-21-2009, 09:14 PM   #3 (permalink)
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so fully tight on the velocity adjuster is basically the highest FPS you would ever want?
and is this for mostly cold or mostly hot days?

i'm seriously considering sending two old zeus to you....dang
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Old 01-21-2009, 09:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Over time they do RussC, and it has to be redone periodically. Squeezing and holding the springs is much more traumatic for them than a momentary compression it seems.

Dundadun,
There is a variation for summer to winter. Originally I would redo the springs for the season, but after a while I found keeping 2 or 3 ring sections of mainspring made it possible to 'shim' the spring. By sliding the short pieces of spring onto the guide rod first then putting the mainspring on there I was able to adjust for variations in weather and elevation.
Heh, noone's ever sent me a whole gun before, usually I just get the magazines to put my little feedport in. I don't tinker for money, but if you ever want me to work them over for you, I'd be happy to, just slide me a PM.





New springs, spring tools and such can be ordered from BuyPBL-Paintball.com Online store. The new warsensor zeus' have a large diameter mainspring that won't fit in the older zeus' and clones, so make sure when you contact them to tell them it's an older gun if it is!

Rob
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Old 01-22-2009, 11:16 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Do you think this tuning would be worth the trouble if you're planning to run a bottom line?

By the way, do you recognize this mod?


Someone from the Warsensor forum said it was one of yours, but I can't find the original post. If it is, does the barbed hose fitting butt up against the pierce pin, and do you know the size of the fitting?

p.s. Thanks for all the info you've put up. It led me to buy a g2 (a Warsensor though, cause Miltecs are sold out everywhere.)
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Old 01-22-2009, 05:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Yes that was mine, I'll check the size of the barb but it's a 1/8th NPTcoupling in the middle.
The barb does cover the pierce pin nicely and once I grindered the 90degree fitting down it slid right in and matched up with the hole in the side of the zeus where the co2 is.

Because I switch back and forth between G2, TAG8 and P68SC during play, 12ies are really the best choice for me, I just made that dummy 12 to run some indoor speedball:



and a friend made me this regular looking dummy right after I made mine.

I would happily mail the adapter in that pic to you if you want it, just slide me a PM with your address. It's just gathering dust in my kit box and I'm finally digging some stuff out of there tonight for Gameshoes.



Rob
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Old 01-22-2009, 07:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Kinda of topic, but have you ever done a holsterable C/A setup.

That added section of mainspring worked great for DOTR, shot 280 in the day and i simply removed it to go down to 250ish for the night play

BTW your PM box is full on HSI.
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Old 01-22-2009, 09:03 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The 30g RAP4 tank fit in my COPS911 holster(I had Robert make it slightly oversized):



MAN, I can't wait for Day Of The Rangers again! Go Rangers! I'm hoping to get another chance to play downed pilot, what a rush getting off the field with my crew alive!

I dug out some PMs, it should be good now!

Rob
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Old 01-22-2009, 11:46 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Im hoping to be a medic again this year, didnt get to do much shooting but i was usually the "last ranger standing".

I figured out what i want to do with the pistol, i will post a pic when i get the parts.

I also plan to drill porting in the treaded section at the end of the barrel, hopefully that will reduce the "bark" a little.

Back on topic, stretching the valvespring on my T68 seemed to also allow me to air it up without cocking it first.
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Old 01-23-2009, 08:23 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Yes, the superstrong mainspring required when the valve spring is so tight actually forces the cupseal open when the hammer rests against it.
Lighter valve spring means lighter mainspring and the cupseal isn't pushed open, so you can pop co2 without the bolt back.

Heh, you can have my Miltec as a gift if you want it XJ, once the Tippmanns are in. I can't think of anyone I'd rather see have it.

Rob
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