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| Sidearms Bring on the Pistols! From Splatmasters to modern day semi-auto pistols. |
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| | #1 (permalink) |
| The Free Man Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: 973 |
Hi everyone, it's my first guide so be easy... Ok so I picked up my TPX last night and was like... wow. I love this thing more than my previous pistols, which included a T8, a T9, and an Ariakon ACP 2.0 (NEVER AGAIN... NEVER). I like the design, I loved it!.. but when I got home, I saw my Crossman 12 grams from Wal-Mart didn't puncture at all! So I google'd it and one guy said to put paper behind the 12 gram. I thought, "So I need paper behind each 12 gram?!" I tried it, and it didn't even work... so I found another one that said to put tinfoil infront of the "white knob" in front of the trigger. Not hard to find, but it's more of a button than a knob. Tried this, it worked! But the tinfoil kept falling... so I went to sleep. Low and behold, it came to me in my dream... just like my research paper! Woke up this morning, and I couldn't find a way to do it... then I saw the trigger. BA-ZING! Right there, here we go. 4 12 grams' worth of dry shots and thus far it has held! Since I haven't found another picture guide, I made one, so that people can make the TPX work flawlessly. Lets begin shall we?!... -Step One: Remove barrel, magazine, and 12 gram plug. I am not sure if this is NECESSARY, but I prefer to do this since, literally, removing the plate will remove half of the clutches that hold each of these. ![]() ![]() -Step Two: Begin unscrewing the SEVEN (7) screws. Make sure all SEVEN (7) are out before you attempt to remove the face plate. ![]() ![]() -Step Three: Lift the left face plate off of the pistol. *Note* The entire safety "stick" will be attached to the plate. Don't worry about it, just be sure not to break it. ![]() ![]() ![]() -Step Four: Lift the trigger out of place from underneath the tube connecting the 12 gram piercer to the "valve" (I don't exactly, know what that is, I assume it's a valve). Make sure to keep the pin that holds the trigger in place. It should be kept in the trigger for the next step. ![]() -Step Five: Take some tinfoil out of the container, I recommend enough to fold over 2-3 times to equal the width of the top of the trigger to the pin. It should also be enough to wrap around a good 3-4 times, to have enough to puncture the 12 gram. Make sure the remaining end of the tinfoil is on the side of the trigger facing the right face plate. ![]() ![]() ![]() -Step Six: Replace the trigger, with pin. Replace face plate, aligning safety with it's hole. Reattach the screws and tighten, but not too tight. ![]() ![]() Please, let me know what I can do to improve!
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| MCB Member |
good idea putting it on the trigger. Just a suggestion but you may want to try something a little less fail prone than tin foil such as a small amount of jb weld on the trigger face should be a permanent fix and would take a lot more wear than tin foil to fail. Either that or someone here could start manufacturing delrin triggers =P |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| The Free Man Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: 973 |
I wish I had access to such powertools, but I am not trusted with such toys. =[
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| | #4 (permalink) | ||
| MCB Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Jefferson City, MO |
JB weld is a two part epoxy that comes in toothpaste-esque tubes, the only power tools you need to use it are a toothpick and a piece of tinfoil to mix the parts on. I assume you have some tinfoil around. :P
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| The Free Man Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: 973 |
Oh, I just saw weld and a memory of my metals class two years ago occurred... instantly remembered why I was kicked out of the class =] Lets just say I welded something valuable to something else valuable... yeah...
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| The Free Man Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: 973 |
Question: What exactly should I weld to it? Or just throw a ball onto there?
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| | #7 (permalink) | |
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| | #8 (permalink) | |
| MCB Member | Quote:
If you want to make it really easy they sell JB Weld in a single tube now which is a little easier to work with. Its not as 'strong' as the dual mix but its more than strong enough once dry to sand down and should be just fine for this application. So either way you go I think you would do even better than the tinfoil but props to you for finding a good solution. Is that plastic piece a floating pin? If so couldn't you just shove a washer inbetween the plastic and the puncture device. (sorry if this doesnt make sense, just going off pictures) | |
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| The Free Man Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: 973 |
What plastic piece? There are too many >_< Do you mean the safety stack?
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| MCB Member |
i was talking about the puncture pin cap.. if you put one behind it inside the puncture valve body i was thinking you could do that to basically lengthen the puncture pin. However looking at the diagram it doesn't look like it would work to me. JB Weld and sand paper is probably the best semi-permanent fix you can get short of someone making new triggers for these. |
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