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Old 09-11-2012, 11:14 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostpilot View Post
Sorry to dig this thread up after so long.
Was there any conclusive results from all of these tests?
Beeing a sterling owner myself, I search high and low for valid and prooven to be true sterling info.
Dont worry about digging this thread up.

Shortly after the last post/videos I did put a female Palmer on there. Also found my old Spyder spring kit. Im able to cut a main spring down (from a spyder) & get a matched main & valve for the Sterling.

I have played with it a decent bit in the past year, not as much as I want to, but getting good results. Good enough I havent done anything to it since last summer. Not sure what the shot count is but I think its well over 25 per 12 gram. The field has a game coming up in a week or two & plan to play. I will try to keep track of how much I shoot & 12grams i go through.

Long story short, I should have got one 13 years ago when I started playing.
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Old 09-18-2012, 10:19 AM   #12 (permalink)
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So, when you cut the spyder spring into a main spring. Do you match number of turns or just cut it to be same length?
You mentioned that you cut the valve spring out of the leftovers from the same spring. Anything in particular I should be aware of when attempting this myself to get a matching spring set?
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Old 09-18-2012, 11:22 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I want to say I cut the main longer than the stock one. That gave me room to cut it down some more if need be. Say the spyder main is 4" long. Sterling, valve is 1" & the main is 2.75". You can cut the main a bit longer & have a slightly longer & matched valve. (just so you know, those are random numbers).

As far as a shot/12g count, I still plan on it this weekend. Some time next week I will take it apart to get some pictures & oring sizes.
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Old 09-23-2012, 05:02 PM   #14 (permalink)
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As usually, I make plans & they goto ****. I did get some numbers early in the morning.

I chrono'd early. Temp was mid 60s & the 12gs (even all of my gear) was colder. Im guessing very low 60s or upper 50s.

Using GOD Force Tactical 12gs. 2 month old Valken field or zing. .680 Ty's brass insert. 13" or so stock ported, brass lined barrel bored for inserts.

Gassed up, dry fired 1 shot to make it was pressurized. 40 rounds in the Ammo box to the chrono. 3 double feeds around 160fps, 2 dry fires. Everything else was around 260fps +/-5fps (havent used the gun in 2 months). The last 2 balls were low speed (cant remember FPS) & I got 3 more shots without paint but could tell they would be very slow shots. These were shot fairly fast as I still had to get the rest of my gear ready & a few things around the field for the game.

Towards the end of the day I slipped into the shooting range, 264, 265, 265, 266.


Chrono'ing at 265fps, clearing 35 shots when cold & matching paint, I should be able to hit 30 shots at 285. I dont really need the extra 20fps as I was long balling people & getting them out with the old paint.
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Last edited by oldironmudder; 09-23-2012 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:07 AM   #15 (permalink)
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This is some awesome research. Thanks so much for the data.
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Old 11-08-2012, 12:37 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by oldironmudder View Post
I want to say I cut the main longer than the stock one. That gave me room to cut it down some more if need be. Say the spyder main is 4" long. Sterling, valve is 1" & the main is 2.75". You can cut the main a bit longer & have a slightly longer & matched valve. (just so you know, those are random numbers).

As far as a shot/12g count, I still plan on it this weekend. Some time next week I will take it apart to get some pictures & oring sizes.
I just picked up a Spyder spring kit for my Sterling because when I've crono'd in the past I've been bouncing all around, 200 fps to about 240 fps. Now that's with the stock barrel (I have a Freak Bored SP now) about 3/16" of spacers and crappy paint that would just roll out. So I know my paint didn't match the barrel well and I have no idea what kind of pressure my 12oz was giving the gun. I now have a SP Freaked Bored Barrel and a Palmers Female Stabilizer and they are calling for nice weather this weekend so I'm going out to play with my new spring kit and I want to get the fps up to about 280.
If I understand the logic here: cut the Spyder spring to match the Valve and use the remaining spring for the Sear, am I correct? Right now I have the spring kit that came with the gun back in the mid-90's and I have the strongest Sear spring with the lightest Valve spring to try to my fps up. I'm not sure why you want to have a strong spring in both the Sear and Valve I would think having the lighter spring in the valve would allow more air to get into the bolt to project the ball farther/faster, am I wrong in thinking this way? I know I'm taking the spring kit and my set of side cutters in order to play around with being able to get my fps up into the 280 range. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:06 PM   #17 (permalink)
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from the little I understanding I have gained, with regards to Sterlings, it is not only the spring that's holding the valve shut but also the input pressure. If you place a stronger valve spring, then you can lower the pressure. Also adding a stronger hammer spring will get you the added dwell for a higher FPS. I guess it's a fine line cause too hard of a valve spring and you are back to square one.

Now mine has a built in velocity adjuster but you may need shims to up your velocity as well.
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Old 11-10-2012, 07:44 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surein View Post
This is some awesome research. Thanks so much for the data.
No problem. I dont see the point of not sharing 12 gram tuning on a marker with a small following. Who knows, another Sterling user might find the magic combo & we could all get 45 shots at 295fps.


Quote:
Originally Posted by turbowagonman View Post
I just picked up a Spyder spring kit for my Sterling because when I've crono'd in the past I've been bouncing all around, 200 fps to about 240 fps. Now that's with the stock barrel (I have a Freak Bored SP now) about 3/16" of spacers and crappy paint that would just roll out. So I know my paint didn't match the barrel well and I have no idea what kind of pressure my 12oz was giving the gun. I now have a SP Freaked Bored Barrel and a Palmers Female Stabilizer and they are calling for nice weather this weekend so I'm going out to play with my new spring kit and I want to get the fps up to about 280.
If I understand the logic here: cut the Spyder spring to match the Valve and use the remaining spring for the Sear, am I correct? Right now I have the spring kit that came with the gun back in the mid-90's and I have the strongest Sear spring with the lightest Valve spring to try to my fps up. I'm not sure why you want to have a strong spring in both the Sear and Valve I would think having the lighter spring in the valve would allow more air to get into the bolt to project the ball farther/faster, am I wrong in thinking this way? I know I'm taking the spring kit and my set of side cutters in order to play around with being able to get my fps up into the 280 range. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Sorry for the late reply, I was logged out & couldnt remember my password.
I did find a couple pictures of the springs.
Stock main spring
Top 2- Spyder, Sterling, Spyder

Back in the day I started with Spyders & tuned the ****ing **** out of them (2000+ shots from a 20oz). I took what I learned from that, the spring tuning, polishing, working on the air flow paths, etc & did some reading on snipers on 12 grams. Also a little reading on OLD brass guns on 12grams. Combined the three & went to work.

Looking at just the springing, hard main, soft valve will give you the highest valve dwell. Good for low pressure (high flow) set ups. Soft main, hard valve will be the lowest valve dwell. As far as cutting spyder springs, I would lay it down & put the Sterling main on one end & valve on the other. The gap between them is where I would cut the spyder spring. That should allow for longer than stock springs that can be cut down as needed.

Ok, Ive lost my rambling train of thought.

Running CA like you are will be easier than 12 grams. I would get on PBN in the Spyder section & do a search for LP tuning. 2002-2004 should be a good time range to look.

Remember with tuning, dont worry about the pressure. All that matters is consistency & efficiency.


Quote:
Originally Posted by surein View Post
from the little I understanding I have gained, with regards to Sterlings, it is not only the spring that's holding the valve shut but also the input pressure. If you place a stronger valve spring, then you can lower the pressure. Also adding a stronger hammer spring will get you the added dwell for a higher FPS. I guess it's a fine line cause too hard of a valve spring and you are back to square one.

Now mine has a built in velocity adjuster but you may need shims to up your velocity as well.

Youre correct about the air pressure also pushing on the valve. There is a fine line in there. Whats worse is when its also short. Back when I had Intimidators, myself & others ran them without valve springs due to a super light ram.
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:25 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I did some spring tuning this past Saturday out at my local field. What I ended up with was I used the Black Spring out of my Spyder Kit and cut it to the Valve length I used the remainder for the hammer. I have the pressure set at about 600 psi and on the three shots I had a range of 275 fps through 283. The speed limit at the field is 289, 290 is too fast, so I think I'm "tuned" to where I want to be, I know I was taking guy's out on the other side of the field playing woods ball so I'm happy with the short time it took for me to get my speed up to where I want it to be.
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:34 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Sterling Velocity 6-8-2013 Early morning - YouTube
^^ Early morning & OLD paint.




Sterling Velocity 6-8-2013 Mid Day - YouTube
Later in the day & fresh paint.
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