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Old 10-23-2010, 12:42 PM   #11 (permalink)
Space Monkey 615 !!!
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Kilt Club
Thank You for the update Brother

For all you that would like to pick up a F1 Shooting Chrony here's a link : F1 Chronograph: Hunting

Link to Shooting Chrony :

They are cheaper than a yellow handheld and 99.9% accurate

Thank You again Brother for brining this fine piece of equipment back into the light

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Old 10-24-2010, 10:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Cleaning and servicing the MG7 Regulator

This isn't a hard thing to do and alot of things are self explanitory. So I'm not taking pictures for every step of disassembly and assembly. OK I lied.

PDF file can be found here to get the specific names of parts:

Here we have the regulator:

Very simple design that only requires 3 Orings. One on the regulator Piston and one on the seals the plug which hold in the needle and plug in the upper portion of the regulator housing. The oring which seals the two parts of the regulator body.

Let's tear it apart:

Unscrew both parts of the regulator.

Using a 10mm socket,remove top plug,needle,seal and spring from upper part of regulator:

Using a 7/32 allen,remove pressure adjustment screw. Then use the same allen wrench to push out the regulator disk,spring,and plunger.

This is how everything should look laid out. The orings that are laying to the side are just for show:


Now that all the orings have been replaced and lubed,let's put the lower portion together first:

Drop in regulator disc,doesn't matter which end goes up or down.

Next we drop in the regulator spring and plunger as one unit. Make sure the wide portion of plunger is in spring. Small part to the top.

Let's reassemble the upper part:

What you see in picture is what will be installed.


drop in the three parts:spring


These parts should slide in as one unit.

next we put in the Brass plug using our 10mm socket. You will have to hand start the plug. Once that is done,use the 10mm socket to snug down the brass plug. Don't over tighten.:

This is what both parts should look like prior to assembly of both halves:

Once assembled,we have one more part to put in,pressure adjustment screw:

Screw in pressure adjustment screw using the 7/32 allen wrench till you have it flush with body. This will give you adjustment room once you air up the marker. Plus it will not let you over pressure the marker and blow your guage.

However,prior to charging my marker with air,I back pressure screw out just a little more than what you see in the picture.

If in any doubt of pressurizing this marker,refer to this video on the MG7 forum:

MG7Paintball - How to Air up or Pressurize the MG7-Pro

As you can see this is a very simple task. Nothing hard about it. If you have any questions,please don't hesitate to contact me.


Last edited by blackrain; 10-25-2010 at 12:15 AM.
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Old 04-01-2011, 11:44 PM   #13 (permalink)
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You do not have my permission to post this or use it for sale in any E-books. Please contact me if you would like to post this on another site:

I've only seen a Scepter kit one time. So I'm kind of going by "Memory Visual". If I'm not correct On leangth please PM me. These are made just like "Blackrain's poor man grenade machine". So it's an easy set up.

Everything is the same except for tubing and plastic beads. You will need 4" of 3/16 latex Tube (get this stuff in fishing dept) and 1/4" plastic beads.

Zip Tie:
No Brainer.

Clip and Check valve:
Slide clip on first. Then slip in the check valve. It will be a little tight. So lube with some spit.

Attach Clip:
Slip clip over the check valve.

Clamp it off:
I used three syringes of 35cc to fill the nade. Then I clamped it off.

Remove Check Valve and clamp:
Get the BB ready to insert.

Insert the BB:
Insert the 1/4" plastic Bead. After inserting bead, leav clamp on for about a min. This will allow the bead to set in place.

Remove clip:
Grenade is ready to use. Insert in sabot and shoot of of M203 Scepter.

So there you have it,another Blackrain no Brainer. I hope this is the size they normally look. Like I said, I have never seen one in person. So a little help from anyone that is more personal with this type of nade.


Last edited by blackrain; 05-23-2012 at 12:41 AM.
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Old 04-02-2011, 04:02 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Thanks for posting the scepter 'nade tutorial, I really appreciate it man!
For Sale/Trade
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Old 04-02-2011, 06:49 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Now this is really a no brainer review. This is a simple item,but not a must have for alot of players. Me personally,I had delayed buying one for a few yrs.

Then I saw the Paintball Jug.

I liked the shape of it and the pour spout. I had also never bought anything from our local Paintball vendor,which is very rude since he shows up at all events and gives up personal time instead of playing.

They are easy to make for the budget minded player,but by the time you buy epoxy and clean the jug your using,get all items needed,cut yourself a few times etc etc., this is much cheaper and safer. If your like me and always on the go you really don't have alot of time for a Home Made Version.

That's where a great place like the Paintball Jug company:
The Paintball Jug


FirstClass PB, A dealer that is local to me:
FirstClass Paintball

Teamed up to bring our area this fine product.

I couldn't believe how fast these sold. You could actually hear the Money ringing before the register was even set up.

It also helped that these were featured at a Local big game,which only enhanced sales. That was an excellent sales move by the way.

They are made very well. The pouring spout is very user friendly. Even my Wife who is my Pit Crew did not have an issue. She thought it was a great idea having this.

These come in several colors. I chose the Clear,which in my opinion is better. It lets the pit crew know the ammo status and when it needs to be refilled. Even when it was raining, the paintballs stayed dry and water free. It doesn't take up much room in my gear bag,so that is a plus.

Holds a half case of paint at a time. Top lid seals very well without any issues. Spins on and off perfectly.

The lines on this item are very smooth and round. It's well shaped and has a big handle to grasp and pour.

My personal thoughts are:

It's a must need item if you are a team that has a pit crew and you bulk load paint. Fast on pod reloading. It's a great storage container for your paint. It's affordable and sturdy.

So if you have a $20 bill that you need to spend on paintball,I would recommend this product. Just contact the links that I have posted and you will get all the help you need from these fine folks.

I'll include more pictures and info when I get back from Japan. This review does need more added. For now Iam only going off memory.

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Old 04-02-2011, 06:56 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Special note:
Becareful with the lighter. Eventually somewise *** is going to pop up and say "I would have used a heat strip cutter". Well not everyone owns a nice machine like that.
I just pass the lighter along the frayed ends, back and forth for a few secs. This will seal it.

Scissors are sharp don't run with them and always point them towards your self when walking. This will prevent you from stabbing others and taking the hit yourself.
If you are not comfortable using a lighter or scissors, get some who is and have them help you.

It's raining and my weekend has been ruined. So I decided to consolidate all my tactical fabric, clips,buckels and webbing. Then I get this bright idea to make a tactical sling.

First thing first. I don't use these. So I know it's kind of long. I'm just showing that it works. Leangth is up to you. I really have no need for this kind of stuff. You just cut and adjust to your flavor.

All of this can be bought local. I just so happen to buy from: - Home

They carry a wide range of stuff that I need. So head over to their store or any local fabric store and pick up the needed items.

Or you can just go on line and buy it at any other place that sells mil sim paintball gear or tactical gear.

We need a nice tact vest, Scissors, webbing clips, quick release buckles, webbing and a lighter.

Lighter use:
It will be used to melt the frayed ends that are cut with the scissors.

Webbing clip:
We will slide this onto the webbing. This will be our final anchor point when we run our webbing thru the vest rings.

Slide it on the gear as such:

Vest rings:
These are already sewn on the vest. Set up is very easy if you follow the pictures.
First you push webbing thru both rings:

Then go over back ring and into first ring and then pull taunght:

Webbing clip:
Now slide the clip to your desired leangth. Pull down some excess webbing and weave the tail end thru the clip.

Then pull tight.

So the attaching part is complete. Lets build the lower half of this same strap.

You will need a clip and a quick release buckle:

Just follow the same steps as before:

Now if you really like it neat you can cover up the bottom tail with the top tail:

Now we are going to make the gun attachment. We will be using an Autococker for the gun. I don't own any milsim markers and this is the best I can do. Same principle and concept.


Set up is about the same as what we did prior to this step. Pictures are self explanitory:

Now slide the loose tail thru the hole in the drop forward or butt stock and continue with assembly:

All finished:
Like I said, I'm not sure how long these are suppose to be. So who ever gets this I'm sure you will cut it to your desired flavor.

Well I hoped I helped someone today. Have fun playing and comments are appreciated.

Last edited by blackrain; 05-23-2012 at 12:43 AM.
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Old 04-02-2011, 07:05 PM   #17 (permalink)
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This is just a guide. You can use this for 140 RND pods as well. Just add to the fabric and pattern. So follow along and let me know what you think when it's finished. Remember if you make a million dollars off my idea, take care of me lol.

If you have any questions or cannot understand,due to less pictures, please refer back to the "HOW TO 50 RND POD POUCH"

Since I have the stuff,might as well try making one. So off to the TACTICAL SEWING BAG we go. This is just starting out, hopefully it will be done by Monday. See how well Mom takes to a BINGO bribe lol. I added more to the front and leangthen the long fold over tail. I still haven't found the need to use seperate parts. Maybe they do seperate parts to BIAS tape them before they are sewn together. However it's nothing a 1/4 hem can't take care of.

I'm not really sure how a 100 Rnd+ pouch is made, but mine are just one piece. As you can see this is a modified 50 rnd pouch pattern that I use.More cloth was added to this one. Like I mentioned, it's all one piece.

The Pattern:
Made this one with computor paper,ruler and pen.
With shiney fabric down, start cutting. Your results will be this when you finish cutting. Looks like a lot of fabric, but once you start folding and sewing it comes out perfect.

Any problems, refer back to the "HOW TO 50 RND POD POUCH". These were installed the exact same way. Very simple. Don't cut corners on this. use the webbing. It will help bind it to the fabric.
Punch your hole with the snap kit tool. I used the 1/8 punch. This is a tight hole and will keep the snap half in tight.

Just like in the other HOW TO, we are going to sew a HEM. This will give us a neater appearance and also makes the pouch tighter. You'll see why as we progress.

These are what will form the bottom "CUP" is what I call it.

Join the DART ends and sew

Time to finish lower snap connector:
As you can see snaps are in place. Very difficult to sew, so the center and edges were just sewn down.

Folding the half.
Now it's time for the back and flap of the pouch. Fold over the excess till it's at the bottom about 1inch past the snaps.

Layed out and pinned:
Ready to go around the edge. Note how all the fabric is dull ,including the cup "CUP". This basically means you are doing great.

Once or twice around the edge:

Lay out the MOLLE:
Same way we did in the 50 rnd pouch. Lower MOLLE strap is about 1-1/4 from center hole of snap to lower MOLLE strap. Then 1" between lower top to bottom of first upper MOLLE straps. This two will only be sewn on the sides and center. Very top strap will be sewn all the way across and around. Make sure you sew in the weave straps..

Then put on the rest of the snaps:
Put on the top of snap. Your all set now to snap together.

Sew on the BIAS TAPE:
This just gives it a very neat apperance. Ther is a skill to putting this on. Note where it starts and finishes.

Pull Strap:
I don't see these on many pouches. I like them, so that's why I put it on.

One of the main components. I picked up 4 packs of ACU repair kits. I have Military base privlidges, thought I would use them today.

Mock up:
Have to check where and how it will all fit. I just pin down the sides and slip in the pod.

Finish the velcro:
Sew on the final piece.

Now sew down the edges of the pouch:
Just right down the sides, joining the two halfs together.

So final product and attaching:
So this came out real nice. You can see it attached. Worked out excellent.

Well hope this helps a few and comments are welcomed.

Here's what you need. You have to figure out the rest from the pictures.

Last edited by blackrain; 05-23-2012 at 12:45 AM.
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Old 04-02-2011, 07:06 PM   #18 (permalink)
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This Snake-Eyes78 IDEA. He is a member from the A5OG Forum. He has given me permission to post HIS IDEA here.

Hi everyone, I know that different pod loaders have come up in previous forums, and there are a few different models out on the market to buy. but I wanted to show everyone my own version that I have put together and basically how to build one from everyday house hold goods.

I posted this Thread originally on the X7Operators Forum and though I should post it on here as well.

All you need are a few everyday recycled house hold goods:
-Coffee can (Plastic coffee can preferable)
-Liquid Laundry Detergent Container (ones with the screw lids)
-Or any kind of plastic juice bottle (with a screw on lid)
-box cutter or hobby knife
-Hot Glue Gun or guerrilla glue (your preference, something that will bond plastic together, nothing fancy.)
-duck tape if you want to use it.

EDIT: July 24, 2008: DISCLAIMER PLEASE READ: All ready had this happen to a few members on the X7 Operators Group Forum. For all those guys that are married, living with a significant other, or still living at home with your parents, please be sure the containers are about to be recycled or thrown away. If not you may wind up with a angry wife or family member, wondering why you hacked up the laundry detergent container or coffee can. Snake-Eyes78 is not responsible for a upset wife or family member. Thank you! lol

Step 1:
Get a coffee can and liquid laundry detergent container (or juice container) that you are about to throw away and wash them out.

Step 2:
Depending on what container you use, cut off the top or cut a little bit lower around the feed part of the container (depending on the size of the container).

Step 3:
Take the cut off screw lid of the container and lay on top of your coffee lid. Take your marker and draw an outline of your screw lid top on the coffee lid. Then with your box cutter or hobby knife cut your hole in the coffee lid.

Step 4:
Take your laundry detergent lid, place it in the hole and hot glue it (or use what glue that you have).

Step 5:
Place the coffee lid back on the coffee can and your done.

Step 6
A bag of 500 rounds fits great in these cans. (There is not 500 rounds in this picture I put half a bag in to show an example). But it will hold 500 rounds. NOTE: Make sure the lid is on nice and tight after you load your rounds or your lid will pop off when you flip the can over. You can tell when it makes that little "pop" sound that it's sealed.

Step 7:
Load up!

You can load a whole bag of 500 rounds into these containers. If your in a hurry before a game or during a break in between a game, this is a great loader to use. I hate to waste paint and are notorious for dropping rounds on the ground when I'm in a hurry before a game is about to start. Whats also good is you can fit your coffee can into a cooler to keep your paint out of the heat and direct sunlight.[/URL]

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Old 04-02-2011, 07:07 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Well I was dragging my feet posting this so now that I have a little time, here it is.

First go to your tactical sewing bag and find the fabric that you need. I only use 1000D cordura,for streangth and because I have it on hand. Rule of thumb,don't use your expensive stuff unless you have cash in hand from the buyer.

The fabric:
We will be using 44"L x 19" wide of ACU 1000D Cordura. Also you will need some 1-1/2" webbing for the shoulder strap.

Next fold the fabric inside out and in half. Now double or triple stich the sides.

Box End:
Now at this time,both sides are sewn down. You have the option of skipping this step. Howeve you will not have the nice box finish and the bag will not stand on it's own for easy loading.
Look carefuly at the pictures. Note how the seam is facing. Both ends should look like this. Pin both halfs together and measure 3" down from the top of the point. Draw a line across the ends and cut away the three inches.

Sew the ends:
Now double or triple sew the ends you have just cut away.

When you are done with both ends,the bag should basically stand on it's own and have a square end as shown in the picture. Note the placement of the seam,how it cuts down center.

The Hem:
With the bag turned inside out, fold over 2" of hem. Double or triple sew the bottom end first.

Then double or triple sew the top edge.

The Strap:
The strap is 44" long. you can use what ever leangth you want,for the size person you are. We have found that this works for us. On each side of the strap, fold up 2". Single sew across the top.

Attaching the strap:
Pin to the out side of the MURSE.
The webbing strap will be sewn on the out side of the bag. Sew in a square and then and "X" pattern across the webbing. Do this on both sides. You should double or triple sew the webbing.

Finished product. I know it looks a little long,but Mom is only 5'2"

Well I hope this helps some of you out. This is only a guide to what you can really do with this basic sewing How To.


Last edited by blackrain; 05-23-2012 at 12:47 AM.
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Old 04-02-2011, 07:19 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Last How To for a while. Mom is getting tired and I'm leaving out of State to work.

Started off as a $10.00 Hydration pack. Not much for the money. Trust me the Ebay picture looked better. I also needed a pattern for one. This was just thrown together very quickly. I'll probably just give this away. So here how it Started off. I'll post measurements later. I actually have a one piece design like the pods pouches, but I don't have any butcher paper to make a pattern. That will come at a later date and be much better then this one.

The Pack torn apart:
Not much to it and very cheaply made. Look at the tape that held the snaps in place.

Cutting the pattern:
Real simple just lay on fabric and pin. Then cut.

Both sides cut out:

Punch the snap holes:
Real simple this time. I just left the fabric pined together and punched thru the snap and fabric.

Laying and sewing the webbing:
I had to add better stuff. so this time we swed everything in real good, all the way across. I punched holes thru the webbing later to add the snaps.

MOLLE Straps:
Layed these down and pinned them. They are centered one inch apart from each other.

The MOLLE Weave Straps:
Takes four of them. They are an 1-1/4" from the side and sewn above the first straps.

Then put on the snaps:
At this time I put on all the snaps. Now was the right time.

Front MOLLE straps:
Nothing special about these, just a place to attach more gear if needed. If you don't want them, don't add them.

Add the VELCRO:

BIAS Tape:
This was around the whole inside, but I only put it on to clean up the edges of the outside flaps. It doesn't really matter if you BIAS tape all the edges. As long as you double or triple sew the sides,it will all hold together.

Sew the darts:
As in all the how to so far we have had darts. Just one of those things you need to give it that nice ROUND BOTTOM.

Ready to put together:
Just pin the bottom. This will hold everything even. Make sure the MOLLE straps are facing each other.

Sew down the sides:
Now line up the side edges and and sew all the way around the pack. Don't try to line up the front and back MOLLE straps, cause they won't. they will be off set from each other. We did a triple stich.

This is how it should look when finished:
This is an inside out picture. After it's all sewn up and ready to be turned rightside out.

Turn it right sideout:
Reach inside and pull outwards gently.

Here it is all finished:
Yes I know it looks low. That's due to lack of top MOLLE straps on the vest. That's soon to be fixed. It's attached. So here are a few pics with the hydration bladder. It's just pulled out slightly to show that it fits. It's actually inside the pack with the flap closed.

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