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Old 04-02-2011, 06:25 PM   #21 (permalink)
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50 rnd pod How To


This project can also double as a BIG BOY NADE CARRIER. See the pictures below.

I decided instead of buying from a company I would make one and share the pattern with everyone on the FREE NET.

I'm going to get exactly what I want. This is only a guide, you modify as you see fit. This is your starting point as well as mine. All items can be purchased at local fabric stores for very cheap. Not sure about the 1000D Cordura. Might have to buy it on line.

Now for those who will jump in and say I spent more to make this then one would cost. Sure I probably did or didnot. What I paid for the fabric is way less then what you will pay for say 4 of these pouches. I'll be able to make these when I want and have all the supplies I need on hand. So I'm coming out better in the long run.

So sit back and read along. Hopefully this will help a few out. If you make a few million of this idea, don't forget old Blackrain

The Fabric:
So I dig into my tactical fabric and parts bag and this is what I find next to the ACU 1000D Cordura. 4 yards of 1000D Olive Drab Cordura from my favorite tactical store DIY Tactical, Tactical Gear Making Supplies


The pattern:
Don't ask where it came from, let's just say it is an improvement over the originol. Look at the pictures for exact measurements. They are written on for everyone to see. So lets lay it out and pin it in place. Note how flat in color this side is. This is the outside fabric.






Lets cut it out:


All cut and ready for more additions:
So here it is, looks like one big Green "T". Note how this side is shiny. This is the water proofing. this is the inside of the pouch.


More supplies:
Nothing is easy. There is always more stuff that you need. We need some 1 inch webbing, snap kit, wooden mallet, and bias for the trim. We had black in our sewing fabric, so we will put it to use.


1" webbing:
This is our 1" MOLLE weaving strips. You will need:
3ea 3-1/2" 1" strips
2ea 5-1/2" 1" strips
I'm using Ranger Green, but who cares, no one will see it. Plus why spend cash for stuff I have laying around.


Time to put it together:
Lets put on the snaps. I'm not giving measure ments on this part. Pictures tell a thousand words. Plus you need to figure stuff out youselves. If someone is going to steal this for an internet book, they'll have to make one and figure out the measurements. Poking the holes in fabric and setting the snaps.




Place the hitting tool under fabric as per directions and hit the snaps as per directions.



Should look like this when finished:


Now fold over the fabric to about 9-3/4 inches:



Pin in place and start setting the MOLLE straps:


First do the snaps:
Do it the same way you did the first set.



Now time for the MOLLE set up:
Once again no measurements, little brain work here.



Then pin in place:



Lets start sewing. Note how the lower strap is sewn down the middle. From there we continued to top strap and then sewed it and the MOLLE straps. Top strap you sew all around. Lower strap only thru the middle.


Now lay the MOLLE straps under the lower straps and sew down the sides. Leave enough room so that the straps can pass in and out.


Time to sew the darts:
While doing this we used what was called a stay stich. It's just a temp stich so you can make sure everything fits, if not it basically just rips apart. Upon a fit up we noticed that we were going to have to hem around. This would give us a tighter fit. The hem will be up to you. I like my stuff to fit tight. Use pictures as reference.



Now lets complete it with the darts:
Everything is sewn from inside. So shiny part is inside dull side is out side.


Should look like this when darts are sewn, like a reverse cup.


Sewing down the edges:
Go all around the edges to seal them up. Not much is needed, cause they will be covered with bias tape later.


Bias tape:
This isn't Mil Spec stuff. Just from a local craft store. this will clean up the edges and give a cleaner apperance. Note where the BIAS starts and stops.




Pull Tab:
This will be used to pull up the cover. Just a quick release.



Time for velcro:
Note prior to final sewing of velcro, I pinned the sides and did a mock up to make sure everything lined up per my spec.



I used 2" velcro.


Note that the cup is still not sewn. Sew the velcro on first.


Pin down the sides of the cup.
You will sew these down from the out side. Everything is now dull cloth. Pin the edges as such and sew them down. This is where the mock up comes into play, you will know exactly where to pin and sew down.


So it's finished:
I had fun doing this. You can see from the pictures how high the pod sits up. THis was the reason for the top hem. You should be able to grab it.




On the vest:
This vest does not have MOLLE straps up to the shoulders. I'm waiting on some coyote brown webbing. When it arrives, we will add more webbing to make this fit alot better.



NOTE:
It also doubles as a BIG BOY NADE carrier.










Later,
Blackrain

Last edited by blackrain; 05-22-2012 at 11:51 PM.
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Old 04-02-2011, 06:27 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Great tutorials Steven, I enjoy reading all of them. Looking forward to more!
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Old 04-02-2011, 10:22 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I'm slowly moving all of my tutorials over here. Haven't really been able to do any more for a while now,but I have a few in the works. I have yet to see anyone make any of these.

Later,
Blackrain
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:54 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Adding Sports mesh to a shirt:

This is how it's done when you make a long sleeve jersey short sleeve jersey. Nerdcore had asked me how to do this,so I bribe Mom to help out and we get this done in about an hr.

This is a down and dirty "HOW TO" so you may notice some flaws,This is just a general ref to show your Mom's,Wife's, Girl friend and Grandmother's. Remember BRIBES help this happens if you can't sew

Shirt:

Random Tshirt we are using. Cut it straight down the sides all the way to the sleeves. We didn't even bother unseaming the sleeves,no need.













Layed out:

Once it is cut, this is how it should look. Then we measured along the cut to figure out how much mesh we would need. Make sure you add atleast an extra inch on each end for the seam.










The mesh:

I traded with a local MCB member here. If he comes forward and says who he is,then he will probably sell it to you guys. Other than that he's a secret. 48"L x4"W was our magic number for what we needed for both sides, but will vert in size for others.





Pin the mesh and shirt:

Down and dirty,pin it as the picture shows. Note how we cut the seams on the hem,you will need to cut atleast an inch. Since the shirt is hemmed,you have to do this. If it wasn't hemmed,you could add it all at once, when it's ready to be sewn together.











Let's sew it:

We used blue thread to show what we sewed. You will use about a 1/4" hem all around. This is your start off point,if the sirt is to big,then sew another 1/4" hem next to it, till you get what you like. Remember what you do on one side,you have to do on the other side,both sides of the shirt.









Serging:

Once you are happy with the fit, put the sewing machine setting on serg and serge the edges.

NOTE:

If you sewed in the sides till you got the fit you wanted,you will have to cutt away excess, till you get to the final hem. Just stop short of it. After you cut away excess, serge the edges of hem.











Sew down the hem:

Note how the shirt and mesh are sewn together. Then fold over to form the hem. This is why we had to cut open the hem. You do the same thing on the lower shirt hem.













So here it is all finished and fits a little looser than it did before. Yes I'm round :rotfl:













So this is an easy project to take on,it's also a guide on how to put mesh in a jersey when you decide to have one made or make one, or just add to an existing one.

This is a very small mesh, but you can buy bigger hole version. It's out there,just do a search.

I did feel a difference when I put this on. we had a fan blowing and from a distance I could feel a breeze and cooling down my skin. So you will notice a difference.

So let me know what everyone thinks.

Later,
Blackrain

Last edited by blackrain; 03-01-2013 at 01:32 AM.
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Old 08-05-2011, 12:17 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Shirt How To:

This was a discussion a few months ago. Since Halloween is just around the corner, I decided "BOOFLOUGE" would be appropriate for this "HOW TO". So I bribe Mom with some Bingo cash and off we go:

First you need a pattern. Get the one that fits you. Note the size on the side of the package. Mine should just be stamped "FAT ***". This is a short sleeve pattern, but the same principle applies to long sleeve.


Then you need your BOOflouge, or what ever suites you best. One good point. Always buy your Camo after hunting season, the price drops alot. Or look on the $1 tables for what you like.


Next lay out the material and cut out the pattern. In this case we will start with the front of the shirt. Fold the fabric in half. and place pattern on the "FOLD" of the fabric. Not the "V Collar as a reference.Now pin everything in place.


Once you have pinned everything, make sure you add a little extra for shrinkage when washed. I'm a big guy, so I always add extra and cut to XXL size. Not I gave myself and extra 5" at the bottom of the shirt and an extra 3" at the sleeves.


Now lets cut it out. Note how the back collar is on the fold. This will allow it to be one piece when cut out.


Front half complete. Note the extra material left at bottom and at sleeve.


Now lets line up the material. Multi patterns need to match up. You should have a mirror image of what is on front, should be on back lined up. So sometimes you have to move down the fabric till everything lines up. This is totally up to you. You don't have to do this if you don't care what your shirt looks like. For this application we will "Dress right Dress" everything as close as possible.




Let's cut out the back portion of the shirt. Same thing, everything is cut on the fold.


Cutting on the fold. Means just that. Since all patterns are in halfs. So fold your material long ways. When cut this is how the should look.



The back sleeve has to be trimmed straight. I don't know why, but that's what Mom says so I guess it's right. Note the start to finish pictures.

Fold the fabric under till the top half of sleeve is in line:


Pin it down. This is what it should look like when pinned and ready for cutting. Note how you will cut at the sleeve angle.


Now cut the excess:



Sleeve is now straight:


All cut out and ready for stay stiching. Meaning just a temporary sew job. This allows for my fat *** to fit in it so adjustments can be made. ie tucked in, remove excess fabric or whatever. Once all adjustments are made then a final permanet stich is done. Always stay stich when making adjustments. Once you have reached final fit up then permanent stich.


Stay Stiched shirt. Mom had to wait till 0100 in the morning to make sure that I fit in the shirt (I work nights. She wakes up after I get home and we talk a while). So here it is stay stiched. Note how a 1/4 seam goes all around the shirt. This is common practice when sewing. Even the pattern instructions will tell you this. Always sew inside out.


The stay stich has been pulled out,now it's time to put on the collar. Note on stay stich. It really doesn't have to be used all the time. Mom uses it to make sure everything fit perfect and enough room is allowed.

Let's get the collar ready.


First iron them and then sew them together.



The "V" collar.
This is the hardest part is setting the collar correct. Pining from the inside, to sew to the outside. Your on your own here. The pics should make it clear.

Lay out the "V". Sew per instructions of pattern.


Pin Collar to inside of shirt as such:


Note how it is pinned together:


Should look like this when sewn:


How it looks from the outside before it final sew:


Final sew. See the thread:


Back of collar.
Mom just did a zig zag stich on this. Not a critical thing. Won't be seen when worn. First you have to iron a hem in it. Then you sew it down like so:




Now let's sew it in. Attach per pattern instructions.


Sew in place.


This is how it should look when complete.


Almost finished. Let's do the hem. 1/4 all around. A rolled or single hem is up to you. I'm into disposable wear,so fraying does not bother me. The choice is yours.

Sleeves



Shirt bottom hem


Once everything is hemmed, iron the whole shirt.


Final finished product:


With all the pictures and working nights, this took a total of 2 days. Someone who is very good at sewing should be able to do this in about 2 hrs after everything is cut out. Good rainy day project. Great project for Mom or Grandma,after you bribe them with money or work lol. I hope this helps everyone. I'll do a Pant "How To" at a later date. I need lounge pants for the house.

Later,
Blackrain

Last edited by blackrain; 07-21-2012 at 02:39 AM.
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Old 08-05-2011, 12:34 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Did you just post 3 different tutorials in one night? By Crom up high on his mountain, you're like a cyborg.
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Old 08-05-2011, 12:38 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Did you just post 3 different tutorials in one night? By Crom up high on his mountain, you're like a cyborg.
Actually I wrote this a few yrs ago. Just pulled it off of my forum that I have. Just an over flow place for ideas,projects and How To's.

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Blackrain
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Old 10-05-2011, 06:47 PM   #28 (permalink)
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VIBE/ENVY SP1/G1 hose and banjo repair


This is a down and dirty hose and banjo repair. I have confidence that I can do this repair without issues,however others may have difficulties. Seek help from the marker factory for all factory repairs. Any damages you cause to yourself or gun parts and anything else in between is your sole responsibility.

Later,
Blackrain



So I recently picked up a cheap VIBE on line:

Read Here:

Gun Projects



It came with a few items. One thing I have learned as a mechanic and thru gun repairs is:

"Don't throw away good stuff,it can always be used later"

Well I did just that,had a few bad boards,so I removed the banjos and anything else salvagable I could and thru them in the bottom of my Vibe case.

As I was getting may latest project ready for the dish washer<I had to remove the board from the breech, and this is what I found,a flared banjo seal:







Well that just won't due,no way am I paying $25+ dollars for a new solenoid top,hose and banjo. This is a simple repair. Might as well put all that payed education to work.

So a few months back,I ordered some repair hose from GoG, for that "Just incase repair"
So off to the repair box I go to gather a few Items that I will need for this task:



Now this is easy to do,just take your time and be patience. Just lightly score the tube long ways till you can remove the old hose. Don't go in to deep and cut or score the barb.





Next cut the hose to leangth. Now you can do it two ways. Cut the hose before you put it on the barb or cut after it's on the barb. I just used a little spit on the barb and on the hose end. I'm sure there is a lube that can be used.


CAUTION:

APPLY EVEN PRESSURE WHEN PUSHING ON THE HOSE. IF YOU MOVE IT AROUND OR USE TO HEAVY OF A FORCE,YOU CAN BREAK OFF THE HOSE BARB,THEN YOU WILL PAY MORE THEN YOU WANTED.




Example #1:



Example #2:




This is how it should look when you are finished:




Then put it all back together and put it on the board.




Don't forget that little horse shoe clip that everyone looses




Then mount it back on your breech and go play:







There you have it. Thoughts and comments are welcome

Later,
Blackrain

Last edited by blackrain; 03-08-2013 at 05:46 PM.
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Old 10-23-2011, 09:36 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Got any guides on making wiring harnesses?
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Old 10-23-2011, 10:12 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slimpb View Post
Got any guides on making wiring harnesses?
As in what gun? I get everything from Digi-Key Homepage
Let me know and they can get it for you way cheaper.

Later,
Blackrain
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