Paintball Teams

[Slimpb]

Pm6 to be exact

[blackrain]

Not really. But if you can post a picture I can still probably help. What I did was send in a harness to digikey and they shot me a price of $6 for an Angel LED harness, which was running for $110 at that time.

Let me see what you have.

Later,
Blackrain

[Slimpb]

Its same as pmr.4 prong.microswitch and battery harness

[blackrain]

That's new to me. If you want to send it into digi key I'm sure they can match everything up for you. Give them a call or PM a tech. I couldn't tell you what a PMR even looks like inside,been a few yrs.

What exactly is wrong with the harness? I might know some one here who can fix it for you. let me see a picture.

Later,
Blackrain

[blackrain]

11 Jan 2012:


Total Price:

Parts wise it was $83.34 for a complete rebuild. All my shipping was free on all these parts. I did make one mistake. I bought the "FREEWAY" at $10.95, and then found it for $5.99 with free shipping on the very next ebay page.

Still way under what these are still selling for brand new. Lowest I've seen on Ebay with a V35 board and rip drive mod is $89.95 without shipping.



The only thing that will be stock in this hopper, will be the Battery cap and it's wires. Other wise this is just a complete rebuild from ground up

All the parts have arrived or on the way. Just wasn't my month for Ebay. 3 orders and parts were missing. I contacted all the companies and they apologized and sent the parts right away. This isn't going to be completed until April 2012 when I get back home from Japan. Sorry for the delay, but keep an eye out for the finished product.

This has basically turned into a complete rebuild and modification. Still with what I paid for this hopper and replace and modifications, it still never reached or got close to the full retail price of a new HALO B.

Later,
Blackrain




How To rebuild a HALO B:

Yep I'm a glutten for punishment. I bought a few HALO Bs a while back. One that was used and one that was really used. Trust me, the one that was really used was well used by a local baller in my area.

He's young and able to move real fast Looking at the shape this HALO was in, I got a great deal from a great player. Who is also an MCB member $20 doesn't exactly break the bank. With as cheap as repair parts are, why should I even worry This just goes to show when you are young and you go all out with sliding and tournament style playing, your gear will take a beating. It's just the nature of the beast in paintball.

Lucky for me, Iam mechanically inclined enough to repair items such as these Plus it gives me a better look into the workings of the HALO B. I really like this hopper. Hopefully it will service well to me or whoever I sell it too. This will basically be brand new when I finish rebuilding it.

I know with all the PRO players out there, I'll hear "You should have just bought a new one". Yea I probably could have, but even with replacement parts and new board, I still haven't hit new price. Plus to many people think that paintball gear is just throw away. Well one day when they grow up and realize that when you enter the real world, get a job and everything else that follows, you'll take better care of your stuff.

Any part that is salvagable will be kept as repair parts for future use or sale. Remember I still have a stock HALO B.

This HALO is the reason why I bargin shop. I don't just buy from the first place I see. I know with the new hoppers out there,these have become obsolete to many players and that means bargin basement prices to me

So on with the project and all it's replacemnt/repair


This shell is getting replaced and off to the Garbage can with it. It's beyond beat up









Well the tray is chipped and cracked, so I'm going to replace it. Then it's off to the garbage can as well:

Black lines show exactly where the chip and crack is located. Nothing that will stop performance, but might as well go all out and maintain this properly.




Picked up this feed tray real cheap from I&I sports. It's chrome plastic. I like putting chrome on everything I build.









Going to replace the stock board with a Virtue board:

I got a real killer deal on this board. So nice nobody would have passed it up. This is brand new. This is what happens when Iam away from home and bored. I start searching Ebay for killer deals and this is what I find. Still under the cost of a HALO B with all the bells and whistles




Will also be replacing the beads and spring with a Freeway. One part to do the job of two parts. This HALO originoly had one in it,but I removed it to put in my other HALO B That was fuctioning much better than this one. The freeway works very well in my opinion.




I'm going to replace the shell with a Warrior Suicide shell from ANS:

The old shell had some cracks and chips. This shell was only $14 from ANS. Why not replace it. What I like about this shell is the fact you just have to remove the upper half. No more breaking this thing down completely just to clean out a broken ball. Remove a few screws and the top lifts right off

What I also liked about it, it comes with a lid. I tried using one of those CRAPPY Speed Feeds. Sorry, just doesn't feed well for me. With buying this kit, I saved a few bucks by not having to purchase a seperate lid.

I bought the clear smoke version,because I like to see the paintballs. If there is a broken one, then I can see it and prevent less clean up. I careless about being seen, I'm going to shoot you the same way, wheather I have a black or clear hopper




Rip Drive:

Might as well put one of these in. This was real cheap also under $10 shipped. I guess it's better than shaking the hopper




Drive Cone:

I know it is well used and in need of some love. I'm sure quite a few 1000+ rounds have gone thru this hopper. This was a great deal I could not pass up. $12 shipped with repair springs. Now supposedly this is suppose to push the ball better. Supposedly it has a .68 grooved fin to push more ball area and be more gentle on paint. We'll see if this is true.





Gut the hopper:

Pull everything out and inspect it. Make sure you check which eyes go where.





Pinched wires:

These can give you bad day. They are piched but still function. It's up to you if you want to repair them or not. Me personally,I'm going to cut them and resolder.




Virtue eyes:

Found some on close out. Might as well put them in too These will go good with the Virtue Board.






Later,
Blackrain

[blackrain]

Vibe/Envy/SP1/G1 power button replacment


Yep sometimes we have to do this. Be it loosing one or getting shot in the power button,accidents do happen. These buttons don't cost very much and it's wise to keep these on hand at all times. Never know when you need them.

So as I listen to some Hank Williams Jr. and other assorted artist, I'll write up this down and dirty "How To".

So just recently my power button was shot and it was hit in such a manner that I could not even turn off the gun. So I take out the batter and take the gun apart. Remove the button and loose it soon after that. Not before I was able to inspect it.

It was shot and the impact made the button angle in the frame. The retainment tanges actually broke off. Oh well I put the gun away grabbed another and off I went to play.

Not everyone has the luxury of having 5-6 back ups with them like I do. To some their Vbe/Envy/SP1/G1 are the only gun they own. So if it goes down they are done for the day.

So when you have a little extra cash,instead of trying to buy that expensive barrel buy a few extra spare parts. They are worth every penny especially if this is your only gun. Spare parts are worth their weight in gold. I'd rather have the spares first before an upgrade:

power buttons
solenoids
stock board
batteries

Things like this are more important than replacing say a stock barrel (we'll cover the barrel in another "How To") or regulator. Everything on one of these guns work great right out of the box. But if you don't have spare parts, why even show up to the field.

As with all my write ups, if more pictures are need, please let me know and I'll add.



Let's get the gun, tools and parts ready:

We will only need allen wrenches for this operation.





Here we have the power button missing:

Missing from the field after I took it out. It was still functional with me using an allen wrench to turn it on, but why risk more damage. Which I really doubt, I've seen videos of this board submerged in water and come back out shooting with out a flaw





Remove the grip and battery:

Yep this involves taking one grip off, so let's get busy.





Remove the grip frame:

That's right we have to take out the two screws that hold in the frame.





Get spare power button:

Well worth the few extra bucks I paid for these. I need to order more. I'm down to 4 and like to keep these in stock. Never know, a fellow GoGer could need one at an event





Which side goes up and which side goes down in the grip frame:

If you noticed I have blackened a part of the power button. This portioned in the recessed portion. It is the top of the power button. This part will go to the top of the frame. See the drawing for better decription.

So many times I read and hear about players putting these buttons in upside down (I've done it myself and ruined the power switch on the board) and can be a costly mistake.

All it takes is to slide the button into the frame hole and keep it at a slight tilt. Make sure you put the battery cpa thru the frame first. Slide on the main body and push together. Button is now set in place. It's that simple.








Replace frame and battery:

Power Button installed and working:





Put on grip and screw down:

Have fun and go play. It's just that simple. You are looking at about a 5 min repair. Took me longer to write this up and take pictures.




Later,
Blackrain

[blackrain]

How To Fake Suppressor SP1:






Way back when paintball started, we were allowed to use Silencers. Now they are not an item we can use. Sure there are those out there that use them. I admit they were cool to use and did help some in the woods.

However we are not going to use a real paintball suppressor, we are going to use a fake one made by LAPCO. I picked this up real cheap from somewhere and figured why not use it on something. My first thought was to put it on my BT4 money pit rental, but then I remembered I had an SP1 laying around that I use and actually had a project going with one.







Well in this era of paintball, barrels suck. Everyone wants all the fancy milling and sections turned down. Nothing is completely round anymore and it’s very hard to find one that is.

The barrel:
So I hit the internet looking for cheap and round. I end up on MCB as usual looking. I run across a sale and find this SP8 barrel. Yea I know it’s to long, but I have a lathe.






The suppressor:
LAPCO made but will fit multi sizes of barrel OD. This was the reason I bought this Suppressor.






The Gun:
Smart Part’s SP1. I really like this gun. That’s probably why I own several of the SP1 and the VIBE. They just have a nice feel in my hand and are very simple to maintain. Nylon 66 and aluminum make a great combo.






So the first thing I have to do is screw in the barrel to the gun. Then mark where I need to cut.
I attach the suppressor. Note the length that remains. This is what will be cut off. Note the scribe mark on the barrel.








Let’s go chuck this up in the lathe and cut it off.

















Now that the portion of barrel is removed, we put it back on the gun and put back on the suppressor. Not really nice and flush. I couldn’t find my parting tool. Found it after I finished up.















So what about the forever flash light hole? Well since I made the suppressor flush to the body, I can’t put back in the plug.
I know “Now I can’t use my flash light”. Well get a flash light mount and buy a TAC switch for it. Then you won’t have to leave your flash light on all the time and you can turn it on when you want.

About that hole. I need to find some 1” aluminum in the shop. Chuck it up, turn it down and make a “Forever plug” for that hole.





So what do you do with the shiny barrel end. Well I cleaned it up with crocus cloth. You can either us a Black permanent marker, Paint or send it in for ano. Black marker cost less



What is left to do? Well I’m never finished when I start, I don’t know why. However this barrel is on it’s way to get a Freak Bore. I’m still not good at Freaking a barrel.

Later,
Blackrain

[blackrain]

Blackrain's Mock Suppressor sock:

Mom made the mistake of asking if there was anything she could do to help me get ready for Super Game 45.

Yep big mistake, she can sew.

I needed barrel socks for my Mock Suppressors.

NOTE:

Before we get started, this sock was built around the LAPCO MOCK SUPPRESSOR. It fits very well on it and my RHYNO TACTICAL MOCK SUPPRESSOR. Iam not sure on the external Diameter of other Mock Supressors on the paintball market. I did however leave enought room on the side measurement to adjust when sewing. Some people like their sock snug some like it loose.

My sock is built for inbetween fit.


With a little ABU Tiger Stripe 1000D, 1-1/2" webbing, and some shock cord, Mom sets out on her task

Measurements:

These should be clear enough for everyone to read. Simple and straight forward.




Supplies:

What you need.

13-1/2" 1000D Cordura, 7" of 1-1/2" webbing, 28" of shock cord. Lighter, Sewing machine, thread and a competent person on a sewing machine




Finished Product:

Yep I'm showing this first.

Fits just fine for me. Just enough room. No I donot use a Mock Suppressor on my ENVY/VIBE mutt. I had both items laying around, so I am using it as an example.







Putting it all together:

I am not writting up another complete "HOW TO" guide. Just follow the reprinted guide below. If your MOM, Sister, Wife, Girlfriend, Lover know how to sew, they can figure out how to box the ends and take off the sides.
If not, take Home Economics in Summer school or find someone to bribe or find a taylor shop

Just follow the below reprinted guide. Hope you enjoy.

Later,
Blackrain



Barrel Sock version 1/2

Next to Googles, this is probably the most important item in paintball. Yep you got it, they both protect your eye from getting shot out.
I've always wanted to make one of these. We will be using ACU 1000D Cordura. I figured since I have 3 yards of the stuff laying around, might as well use it.

3/16 Shock cord and ACU


cord lock


1-1/2 or 2" webbing


sewing machine


Layout the pattern. It's not hard to make. This is why I'll be using a "one piece" Design. This picture you see is the pattern for what will be made here. Any other drawings you see in this "HOW TO" are useless. I changed up the design after I had taken the picture. Also the word "SEAM" actually meams "HEM". So this picture is the actual pattern that is used.

The pattern:
I have never figured out why companies that produce soft goods have to use more then one piece on something that is so simple. I would imagine it makes them more money due to labor cost in third world countries. However I'm a simple person who has a simple design. Don't let all the measurments spook you. Just look at each one and it will all work out. As mention above,ignor all the other pattern pictures in this thread, this is the one you will use:


The fabric:
NOTE:
While making this,make sure the fabric is inside out. Always sew from the inside.

Nothing complicated about it. This is just a scrap piece of 1000D ACU I had laying around after another project. Never waste your project scraps, they can be used for something else.
Place the pattern on the fabric. Pin down and cut out.



Fold the fabric:
Next fold the fabric in half. This will help you find center.


Then fold the 1-1/2" webbing in half. This will also help you find center. Then lay in place on the fabric.


Pin down:
Pin down the webbing in place. It should be center and have 1-1/4" on each side of long end only. See pattern for more info.


Sew webbing:
Nothing hard about this. Just sew down the webbing. Like everything we sew,it is double sewn.


Hem:
On each end of the fabric,sew a 1/4" hem. Not only will this help the barrel go in better,but it cleans it up real nice and prevents future fraying or wearing of fabric.


Shock cord and cord lock:
I bought the shock cord and cord lock from DIY Tactical.


Cut 28" of shock cord:


Sew it together and sew in the shock cord:
Fold the barrel condom in half. Slide the shock cord thru the top of the two hems and out thru the side. See picture for more info.


Sew the two halfs together using a 1/4" seam (this is the only time we use the word seam. A hem is folded over. I know I wrote hem on the pattern instead of seam). We double sewed the sides. Make sure you get the shock cord real good.


At this point the project is done. For those who want to continue to make a nicer one, follow the rest of the instructions. For those who are done, turn your sock right side out and go play.

Boxed ends:
This will give you barrel sock a better appearance. From the bottom of the sock measure up 1-1/4". From the top of the measurement, draw a line to the corner of the lower webbing. Sew along that line. Make sure to double or triple sew this line.
Then cut away any excess that is left. Not to close to what you just sewed. Do this on both sides.


Once the box end is completed turn it right side out.


Now put it on your gun and go play.



Made up a few. 1000D cordura Multicam.

Version 2 note that these are not coffin shaped.






Hope everyone enjoyed this. Comments are welcomed.
Later,
Blackrain

[resistance16]

Are you selling these at SG?