Team Blackrain HOW TO
This is where "HOW TOs" will be posted. No one has permission to post these in your E-books that are sold on Ebay. I give no permission to use them. They are free for everyone to use. Just remember if you steal one of my Ideas for your Ebooks,be very careful. I donot always explain exactly how to do my projects nor to I put complete instructions. If you sell the ideas and someone gets injured it's your fault. My Ideas take a little thinking to complete. Some of them actually take a little skill.
So before we start let me give credit where credit is due. This is not my idea,a member here on MCB by the call sign of SPRECK did this. While in Japan,we were talking about my dead Angel LCD and he told me about this neat little mod.
So we have this Dark Angel LCD without a board. I bought this about 8 yrs ago,sold it to Rainman 229,who then sold it to Brimstone,then I bought it back from Rainman 229. That was almost 7 yrs ago. It's been sitting since.
Then you get a PMR RAIL board. Shape it as such,or to your mounting design. The Angel solenoid will plug into the board.
We'll be using the Grip buttons:
Board is shaped and plug in harness:
Put in grip buttons and slide board into mounting hardware:
How it should look:
This is just a fast how to. it's all common sense. I used the old LCD board as my new mounting hard ware. How you mount the board is up to you. The gun turns on just like a PMR RAIL would and uses the same modes. I'm told it will not work with EYES. How you mount it and what you use is up to you. This is a guide and you go from here on your own.
So how did this perform? Flawless. I used it yesterday (5 July 2010). Hasn't been used since 2004. Shot it over the chrono and it showed 285 fps. Not bad for sitting that long. I still have to figure out how to use the PMR board adjusting wise,but other then that it was flawless.
Guess I'll find a tech to adjust all the pressures and what nots. I was getting a little drop on my strings of shots. It needs a tune up anyway.
Overall I was very happy with the way it shot and performed in the games I played.
Pit Crew and how to prep them
These are my opinions and only mine. How other teams handle their pit crews is their issue. This is how my pit crew operates,so these opinions are just mine.
As most of you know Iam a one man team. However that does not exclude me from pre prep for events. I probably own and use more gear than most organized teams use and own.
Iam not a speedball team,nor do I join with other teams as a fill in. I'm just at events for fun and to help support my sponsors.
For some to read this and think it's a waste of time, well everyone has their opinion. I feel this is a needed item for any team or event you attend.
Now to begin with,I do have a PIT CREW and that Pit Crew is my Wife. She travels with me to big events,sells my paint grenades and makes sure that my PODS are filled with paint.
I know it's odd to hear of a Spouse helping out their Husband on the field. Knowing she could be doing something far better like eating lunch with her friends,sleeping in,or just having her nails done.
Not my wife,she likes to travel with me. It's like a getaway for us. Plus in all fairness when we are out of town,and she plays BINGO,I pull pit crew duty for her. Making sure she has plenty of popcorn,drinks and dabbers.
Her duty does not just begin on the event day,it starts way before that. Just like any other pit crew preperation should.
Pit Crew and Responsibilities:
One thing she does is arrange the hotel reservations. This is important for moral, Her's and mine. We need our comfort when we travel out of Town or State for an event. We are near our 50's so a tent is not my idea of comfort anymore. 21 yrs of military service gave me enough time in a tent.
She arranges the expense money for the hotel and event charges.Helps with paint grenades from start to finish. Makes sure gear is in order and even packs the SUV if I'm working nights before the event.
She even looks for special deals I may have passed up. when searching for the next event.
Day of the event:
The paint loader and pods are clean and laid out for loading. She makes sure that all the pods and gun hopper are filled. Once that is done she refills the paint loader so that it's ready to fill empty pods when I come off the field and refit with new pods.
The ice chest is always filled with sports drinks and water. Always cold with plenty of ice.
Depending on the time frame and how needed I am on the field,she is loading my vest as I'm dropping empties into a box or on the ground. Asking me if I have enough paint grenades. If not she has a pack or two on stand by for refit.
This whole time she's asking if I'm thirsty,when's the last time I drank something,do I need air, am I going to be hungry when I come off the field.
She's shoving a straw under my mask and into my mouth to make sure I drink some liquid regardless if I need them or not.
She informs me of any announcments that were made while I was out on the field.
She wipes my vest of any hits and off I go. this is usually about a 2-3 min turn over.
Team Responsiblity (mine):
I handle all the event payments once I get the GREEN LIGHT. I arrange all payments over the internet for event and paint.
I make sure she has a Team Jersey,that way we look half way organized.
One thing I make sure happens before I go out to the field is that she doesn't have to make a PIT STOP. This is probably the most important thing I need to make sure is done.
Not only is she the pit crew,but she is the gear guard.At local events,not an issue,but out of town events,yes it can be an issue. To many stories of gear walking away. Last thing I want to know is some little punk has gear that I worked very hard for.
Also make sure you have plenty of Baby Wipes for your Pit Crew, porta potties are not exactly the best place in the world to use.
Plus they are good to clean off paint and broken skin from close up shots or hot guns.
How involved should your Pit Crew be?:
Well mine is very involved. She picked the canopy we use and the tables that we set up. She makes sure that we have plenty of lawn chairs incase we have guest drop by and say hello.
Makes sure that all sponsor cards and flyers are ready to be handed out.
She then starts to prep for the next day before we are even half way thru the first. Making a list of what we'll need. Making sure how fast the paint is going and how many cases we'll need for the next day or to finish out the day.
Are we stopping to buy drinks and ice for the next day. Where's the best place to stop to get the most for our money.
Do I have clothes and a Jersey for the next day.
Now getting back to the canopy and tables. Yes it is important for her to be comfortable. She has to have a full eye view of what's going on around her as she is selling paint grenades,yet keep an eye on the gear,while having limited access for people to enter.
She needs to be comfortable while she is waiting for me to finish having fun.
She has her special little area on the table for her DVD player and book that she reads (We'll be upgrading to an E-Book soon).
I know letting the pit crew pick the gear is not really what most teams do,because they already have canopies and lawn chairs. However in my case it's a different story. I don't have a sponsor logo on it and I also use the tables and canopy for family events as well.
Respecting your pit crew:
I don't care who Pit Crews for you, show them respect. You want them to come back. Or let others know you are the team to Pit Crew for.
Don't use the terms and how to treat people:
"POD BITCH, POD MONKEY, POD QUEEN" when refering to them.
That's only good for two things:
Them walking out on you and a good smack in the mouth.
Just because you asked them or they asked you to Crew,doesn't give you the right to treat them like dirt.
That's the best way to get a bad reputation and not be able to get a pick up crew when you really need one.
Also make sure that you feed them and have plenty of stuff for them to drink. You provide that,not them. That's a team responsiblity.
You have to always remember there is always a better team then yours. Your not that special that someone won't walk off and give you a bad rep. You are responsible for your crew,from gas to lodging.
Remember,you asked them to join. They really get nothing out of it. Well sometimes they get a nice lie saying:
"Hey man Pit Crew for us and we'll let you join our team"
Then they sit and wait and it never happens.
If you think that someone walking off and giving you a bad rep won't hurt your team,think again,they may be better friends with another team/crew then you are.
People listen and watch and judge for themselves.
Remember,your not paying them,just providing the needed resourses they need for or at the event.
Remember,your very important for team success,so don't slack if you have a good deal going. Full fill your end of the deal as well. Remember a team can make you look just as bad.
Any team worth their weight in salt will check refference to see if you really are what you say you are.
Teams also watch other crews. This gives them an idea of how a Pit Crew should run and what is your crew doing better then their Pit Crew. They might even want to add you to their roster.
So it's a give and take for both sides.
When Choosing a crew:
Make sure the whole team agrees on the people chosen. Make sure they are reliable. Make sure they have transportation to and from the event,even if your providing it. I would just try the pit crew out at some local events first,maybe even at weekend rec play. They have to be just as reliable as the team you are on.
Also using them at local rec will actually show the team how reliable they really are. The pit crew doesn't have to be paintball players,they can be friends or family that just want to be apart of the team or just help out.
Make sure the Pit Crew is presentable in appearence. Nothing says dirt bag like "LOOK AT ME I"M GANGSTA WEAR". Watch the language also. People do notice that as well. I notice it alot and it really ticks me off. Shows how parents really raise thier kids.
There are many things that you can do with your pit crew. How you handle them is up to you. How they are presented to local teams, players or patrons is really up to the team. Overall they are your responsibility at events and in public when together say eating Pizza after an event.
Presentation and overall appearence are the most important thing being a team or pit crew,it's the first thing people/players see.
Remember a pit crew is a team and responsiblities are just as important to hand out as say team field positions. Make sure the Pit Boss is a person who can delegate authority and makes sure tasks are executed when needed. The Pit Boss and Team Captain are the only ones who should really talk about schedualing and Team,Pit Crew matters.
There is a chain of command and it should just start with them. All complaints should be handled by both of those individuals. Unless both are the problems,then just go to the next in charge.
Well they are to communicate to let her know I'm on my way,that way pods or whatever will be ready. Or if she needs a break. So they are a next buy on our list. Always make sure you have plenty of batteries on hand.
A player has to basically be like a Nascar Driver or Quarter Back. They always need to keep in communication with the pit crew. This is important for the pit crew as well. You just can't sit around till the person comes back in then decide it's time to fill pods. You may have to do a refit just on the outer boundry of the field.
That's when the dump pouches are emptied on the ground and you're loading up vest and the player is just getting a quick drink. So it's important that commo is established and your ready to go if the player/team wants to refit just off the field.
It's always good if you have a map in your staging area. That way you can communicate your position(s). Schedual a refit drop. Walk the field prior with the PIT BOSS or the whole crew. Mark refit drop sites on your map(s) so you can let the pit crew know where to meet you.
Alot of this may sound like over kill to some,but if you really want to make it all a true scenario,this is actually how refit is really done. You can let your imagination run wild.
Barrel Sock version 1
Next to Googles, this is probably the most important item in paintball. Yep you got it, they both protect your eye from getting shot out.
I've always wanted to make one of these. We will be using ACU 1000D Cordura. I figured since I have 3 yards of the stuff laying around, might as well use it.
3/16 Shock cord and ACU
1-1/2 or 2" webbing
Layout the pattern. It's not hard to make. This is why I'll be using a "one piece" Design. This picture you see is the pattern for what will be made here. Any other drawings you see in this "HOW TO" are useless. I changed up the design after I had taken the picture. Also the word "SEAM" actually meams "HEM". So this picture is the actual pattern that is used.
I have never figured out why companies that produce soft goods have to use more then one piece on something that is so simple. I would imagine it makes them more money due to labor cost in third world countries. However I'm a simple person who has a simple design. Don't let all the measurments spook you. Just look at each one and it will all work out. As mention above,ignor all the other pattern pictures in this thread, this is the one you will use:
While making this,make sure the fabric is inside out. Always sew from the inside.
Nothing complicated about it. This is just a scrap piece of 1000D ACU I had laying around after another project. Never waste your project scraps, they can be used for something else.
Place the pattern on the fabric. Pin down and cut out.
Fold the fabric:
Next fold the fabric in half. This will help you find center.
Then fold the 1-1/2" webbing in half. This will also help you find center. Then lay in place on the fabric.
Pin down the webbing in place. It should be center and have 1-1/4" on each side of long end only. See pattern for more info.
Nothing hard about this. Just sew down the webbing. Like everything we sew,it is double sewn.
On each end of the fabric,sew a 1/4" hem. Not only will this help the barrel go in better,but it cleans it up real nice and prevents future fraying or wearing of fabric.
Shock cord and cord lock:
I bought the shock cord and cord lock from DIY Tactical.
Cut 28" of shock cord:
Sew it together and sew in the shock cord:
Fold the barrel condom in half. Slide the shock cord thru the top of the two hems and out thru the side. See picture for more info.
Sew the two halfs together using a 1/4" seam (this is the only time we use the word seam. A hem is folded over. I know I wrote hem on the pattern instead of seam). We double sewed the sides. Make sure you get the shock cord real good.
At this point the project is done. For those who want to continue to make a nicer one, follow the rest of the instructions. For those who are done, turn your sock right side out and go play.
This will give you barrel sock a better appearance. From the bottom of the sock measure up 1-1/4". From the top of the measurement, draw a line to the corner of the lower webbing. Sew along that line. Make sure to double or triple sew this line.
Then cut away any excess that is left. Not to close to what you just sewed. Do this on both sides.
Once the box end is completed turn it right side out.
Now put it on your gun and go play.
Made up a few. 1000D cordura Multicam.
Version 2 note that these are not coffin shaped.
Hope everyone enjoyed this. Comments are welcomed.
I made these a few yrs ago. they actually work. I was poor and couldn't afford a lot of stuff. So I used my basic mechanic skills and came up with these. Yes I know they have a "water mark" across them,but they are my ideas, just contact the mod at that forum. You can get all electronic parts at Radio Shack.
My friend morgan was really into night time scenario. Only problem I had was no cut off timer after a few mins of use.
The Tommi lite:
Named after a girl I once knew who played paintball. She was lit up at a viper game in Houston during the night. Even after calling herself out and trying to leave. Old idea, just my version. I think APP made a saucer type version.
The mask fan mod:
Done by a few,but I liked my version best lol.
Vert air on BT4
So to start off with, I like my regs vertical. I hate a gun that can't have a vert reg. Well simple fix.
First thing we need to do is eliminate the Fore Grip. Some people like it,I don't. I like my reg where I want it to be. I never follow the pack. I'm an outside machinest by trade, so things happen fast for me. I'm no good with a lathe and mill,but I can design with average stuff that's on the local market.
So I buy $9.00 worth of bipod attachment from an Airsoft place on ebay.
I add the Auto Mag ASA and attach with the provided screw. What I like about the mount are the 3 holes I get to choose from. I can either mount the ASA forward,middle or rear. This unit can also move forward or back. You just need to add the air line leangth of flavor.
This isn't very hard to do. I've never seen this done, so I hope I'm the first. This took me all of about 5 mins to think of when the idea came upon me. Now some joker out there is going to make a million dollars off my idea and charge you guys $50.00 lol.
AR Bipod Sling Adapter 4 RAS RIS Picatinny Weaver Rails:
Simple item. Cost was $9.00 there are some that are a few dollars more. I chose this because of the position holes. I imagine this mod will progress thru others as shorter. Some will cut down the rail. Some will do a nicer version with just items from a local hardware stiore.
Let's remove the Bipod nub:
We aren't going to need this. It's really useless.
First part of Mod Braided line replacement:
Replace the braided line with a macro line fitting. Simple no need for explination.
Lets attach it into the body. I would really reccomend doing the nub mod prior to reinsertion of the valve body. Eventually you will want metal internals and it will already be done.
Remember "Prior Planning prevents piss poor results"
This is how it should look.
Add Air hose:
Make sure you add a good leangth of line. The valve body doesn't exactly center up when both halfs are together.
At this time you need to decide if you want side air fitting or mod for rear air straight fitting. Once this has been decided,begin the steps below.
Slide on attachment and tighten down:
Well it doesn't exactly slide. Kind of clamp it in place. I'm learning alot as I buy this type of gear lol.
Very simple to do. I found it alot easier to connect the air hose and then mount the bipod clamp.
Reg is ready:
Screw in the reg. For this purpose,I used a WGP stock reg that was given free in a trade. A few orings and a little LOVE it was operating again.
Let's build a tactical vest
I need a vest to travel with when I'm on TDY trips. I learned a big lesson this trip. Go out with more then two pods when the are 80-90+ players.
So in my search for cheap stuff and with one mistake I found a decent price vest.
I know people out there only go for quality name brands, but in reallity lets look at it, alot of these vest come from the same place, only made with different specs and fabric.
Me I cut price where ever I can, but I read reviews and am usually a great judge from just seeing a picture. If there isn't enough MOLLE straps, I have plenty of 1in webbing laying around that I can add to. I bought the webbing on sale.
1 in. Webbing, Ranger Green, 43668 Type III CLEARANCE [DIY-668-T3-1RG] - $0.33 : DIY Tactical, Tactical Gear Making Supplies
Who I used:
I used Cheaper Than Dirt for the major buy.
Cheaper Than Dirt - America's Ultimate Shooting Sports Discounter
Also used Ops Gear for the pod carrier.
Coyote Brown was the color chosen. Looks nice and will fit my needs. I'm sure I will get more then my monies worth. I have an OD grean belt that I will use for the waist. Hey it saves money and I'm not trying to make a fashion statement when I play.
Belt came from Rap4 a while back:
Real Action Paintball
Since I can't take the picture off Opsgear site, here is an example of what I bought. I purchased 2 of these 3 pod holders in Coyote Brown. If I had been paying attention, the same items sold for less on Cheaper Than Dirt.
I have 100 rnd pods from a previous bulk order, so I have already saved.
I always wanted one of these, but not willing to pay the high end price for them. I figured why not. Now I won't have to worry about my keys falling out of my pocket. Hey I get a free American Flag patch too.
What I felt was a great investment for those long scenario games. I still haven't filled up my last one, cause I'm never that far from a stagging area.
So my grand total was $91.91 + $16.00 s/h = $107.91
So I'm in for the good. I got exactly what I wanted right from the get go.
Now the bad. Good thing I was a Sargent or I couldn't think ahead.
There will always be people out there that will say " How do you know it's quality, or I would have gone with a Dagger vest or a custom made vest".
"You should have gone this pattern, it would have been better" "Coyote won't keep you covered" Well that's you. I just bought what was cheapest.
I play with what Iam used to. My article here is just a guide. I have delt with Cheaper Than Dirt and Ops Gear for some time now. So I know both places are "STAND UP" dealers.
I don't follow the crowd of who paid the most for their vest. I'm also not the type of person who has to settle for what's out there. I buy cheap and save the cash. I buy bulk for later down the road.
So what if my belt won't match my vest, does that mean I'm a bad player?
Trust me if everything would have been close outs and different camo patterns and I could have paid have the price, I still would have bought the stuff lol.
Like I said it's just a travel vest., and this is a guide.
Well I hope that I helped someone out and I hope your decisions are wise when you spend your cash.
I'll post a completed picture when it all gets here and put together.
What will be added at a later date. Once everything is set up and I'm happy with it all, I will make a leg rig dump pouch. I have 50 yards of webbing and 6 yards of Coyote Brown 1000 cordura laying around. This fabric and webbing can be purchase at DIY Tactical. Link is above. I guess Mom will get an easy Bingo trip out of this job lol. She is one of my gear sponsors. She makes the bandanas and my tactical carry bags/pouches that I use at work.
LINK TO HELP:
You will learn alot more here.
Heli-Coil, Helicoil, Helicoil Insert, Helicoil Tap, Helicoil Inserts, Helicoil Gauge, Helicoil Kit, Helicoils, Emhart Helicoil, Bollhoff Helicoil, Helicoil Plus, Armacoil, Armstrong Helicoil
Someone had asked for this help. I just found the last few I had laying around. This will be a two part "HOW TO" Installation and removal of a heli coil.
This is probably one of the easiest things to do in paintball. Have a stripped thread is not a problem to fix. Most people would just shove in a larger bolt. Well all that is, is a temp fix and a bigger cost for you in the long run.
We will be using a 10/32 heli coil.
The kit,buy them on ebay.
Use a drill press and not a hand drill,cause all you will do is just drill it off center.If you are not comfortable using tools,seek someone who knows what they are doing. Please don't blame me for your mistakes. I would not recommend using keen serts. They require a bigger hole and this is not a good area for a keensert. It is to shallow.[B]
A few things about heli coils:
They are replacement threads.
They require a special drill bit and a special Tap.
They require an insertion tool
You can buy them in a kit with everything you need.
They do not always come in the size/leangth, so they will have to be clipped.
They have to be removed prior to anodizing.
The insertion tool cost more than some guns out there,but it will cost you just as much to send it to some one to do it.
My min charge is $20.00, plus you pay shipping both ways with tracking number and insurance,so that's about $30.00 in shipping alone. Some people charge more
First thing you need to do is clamp the body in the vice:
Make sure the drill bit is lined up properly:
Once everything is lined up. I lower down the drill bit and rotate it by hand. Turning the chuck I make sure I have an even scratch around the whole area I'm drilling.
Now let's drill:
I would recommend using some kind of drilling fluid. I didn't use any,because it's such a short drill. I also drill about 2000 holes a yr and insert about 200 heli coils and keen serts.
Turn on the drill at a slow speed. Bring down the bit slow till you are thru:
Now let's tap it. You have to make sure the tap starts straight and stays straight. Not much metal is in this area. There is no repairing it unless you weld it or go to a bigger helicoil,but that won't help,cause it's not the thread you need.
Use some tap fluis when doing this.
Tap all the way thru:
Now it's time to install the heli coil:
You will notice that they are to long for the area you want to insert into. So we are going to clip it with a pair of wire dykes. You will only need the lower 4 threads. That will include the top half of the thread and the lower half of the thread with the "TAB".
So Technically 3 middle threads and 2 half threads.
Before we install,you will notice a "TAB" that wil insert into your tool. This is what the tools uses for leverage to screw in the thread (HELI COIL). You will insert in a "CLOCK WISE" turn.
Slide the tab onto the insertion tool. Push the tool and helicoil up against the hole. With a little pressure,start to slowly turn the tool in a "CLOCK WISE" direction.
Turn the tool till the threads begin to grab and continue turning till the top thread is flush with the body. Look inside the body to make sure the "TAB" or any threads has not gone past the inside thread.
Once you are happy with the threads and everything is sitting flush in the threads,turn the tool "COUNTER CLOCK WISE" with a quick snap. This will break off the "TAB".
So there you have it 5 mins of work total.
I'll add to this later.
While going thru my shed today
25 Oct 2010
Got ahold of shooting chrony today. They actually had face plates for my F1 chrony. Other then that,they no longer repair them nor carry repair parts. I'll look for rivets this week and hopefully start cleaning and repainting the body.
I found this. My F1 Chrony. It's in rough shape due to paint flaking and light rust. I'm going to change all that. I guess I'll take it apart once I find the correct screw driver (special square) and the correct rivets.
I'll strip all the paint,clean up the rust,primer it and then paint it a nice Olive drab.
I'll have to contact Shooting Chrony for a new front LED display cover. Hopefully they can still help out with one.
It shouldn't take long,but I'm not taking anything apart till I have everything I need.
This hasn't been used since 1995. I put a battery in it and it calibrated right up. It's working correctly. Now it just needs a face lift.
Little Chrony History:
If you've been playing long enough,you will remember when this was a needed item in your playing gear. This was before players believe that you can chrono one week and just step out to the field the next week and it would still be shooting the same and no need to chrono.
We also carried this item ,because some fields didn't have a chrono or we played on Out Law fields.
They are great just for testing in the back yard and for adjusting regs and FPS. They were and still are a great investment,especially for the fact that they are compact.
This item was the field standard for many yrs when paintball was very young.
2 November 2010
Well I decided to take the Chrony apart and do a little referb. I have a new face plate for it. Chrony actually had some in stock. I bought two just incase.
So I bought everything I needed, $40.00 worth of rivets,stripper and tools. Then I continued to take it apart and strip off the paint. You have to drill out the rivets. I didn't take a picture of that. Once everything is apart,you start to paint on the stripper.
Remove rivets and you have two halfs:
Put on gloves and Paint on the stripper:
Let it sit about 15 mins and scrape away:
After I stripped it:
I took 80 grit to it after I removed all the paint. If there's rust on it,it's hiding very good lol.
Then I primered it:
Once all the priming was done:
I used a nice Olive Drab and painted the whole thing. I chose this color,because it's not dark and it gives it a nice look.
So now the wait.:
I'm going to work on this thru out the week. I still have to rivent back in all the parts and solder in the battery wires. I have to clean up the EYE housings. That's almost 23 yrs of paint on those housing covers. I'll post more later this week.
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