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Old 05-08-2014, 01:21 AM   #11 (permalink)
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The Tiberius Videos (In the sticky if I remember quickly), are great for learning how to strip down and re-assemble the gun, including the whole 'bolt push' step. I had no problems pulling the trigger/sear/reg pack apart.

Interestingly, The Tiberius Manuals specify to use oil but, the videos (By Eric Bratten if I remember correctly) actually recommended grease on the powertube o-ring, and only a few drops of oil in/on the trigger/sear/reg pack.
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Old 05-08-2014, 01:28 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by uv_halo View Post
The Tiberius Videos (In the sticky if I remember quickly), are great for learning how to strip down and re-assemble the gun, including the whole 'bolt push' step. I had no problems pulling the trigger/sear/reg pack apart.

Interestingly, The Tiberius Manuals specify to use oil but, the videos (By Eric Bratten if I remember correctly) actually recommended grease on the powertube o-ring, and only a few drops of oil in/on the trigger/sear/reg pack.
ah, i saw a t8 in the thumbnail and figured it wasn't relevant to me. how similar are the 8.1 and 9.1?

awww ****, i have to undo the reg body to do that step, it seems.
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Old 05-08-2014, 01:49 AM   #13 (permalink)
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ah, i saw a t8 in the thumbnail and figured it wasn't relevant to me. how similar are the 8.1 and 9.1?

awww ****, i have to undo the reg body to do that step, it seems.
Internally, nothing.

The 9.1 body has a four screw hole pattern for accepting the stock adapter (one of which served as the air path from the ASA to the reg). The 8.1 didn't have the four screw holes or, an externally accessible air path. This was remedied by the 8.1 remote line adapter.

The hardest part about doing routine maintenance (cleaning bolt, breach, top of trigger area) on the 8.x and 9.x guns was dealing with removing and re-installing the trigger. What I eventually did was get a long handled allen wrench (T-style) and leave reach up through the grip to loosen the screw holding the reg/trigger pack to the body, and then remove the other two screws holding the frame to the body, lift the body off and, leave the trigger/reg assembly in the frame.

Oh, and I also used isopropyl to clean my gun (breaks down the oil and grease, allowing a for a fresh re-application).
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FN303SD Totmacher 13 | SP 'Woodstalker' Ion | 1989 Line SI Bushmaster SI Deluxe
First Strike Round Field Listing | External Ballistics, FSRs and PBs | My Feedback
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Kaye -in response to FS price critics
Unfortunately all of you have played the one "speedball" game of paintball for so long you can't conceive of other ways to do this and hence any new ideas seem stupid.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crimson Death View Post
First strike rounds punish lazy people. Don't be lazy and you won't have problems with first strikes.
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Old 05-08-2014, 02:36 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Yeah using geese in the reg or anywhere around there will plug up the reg and piss you off. Just put a couple drops of oil in the mag nipple.
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Old 05-08-2014, 02:40 AM   #15 (permalink)
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if i were to remove the stock adapter on the t9.1, what do i need to plug it up?
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Old 05-09-2014, 01:06 AM   #16 (permalink)
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With the stock/tank adapter installed, look at it from the rear. It looks like there are four screws holding it to the gun body, surrouinding the female ASA threading . Three of the screws (top left, top right, lower left) actually hold the Adapter to the body. The bottom right screw is actually a smaller screw with an o-ring. This smaller screw and o-ring will plug the hole/air path in the lower right corner of the gun body.

That's it.
__________________
FN303SD Totmacher 13 | SP 'Woodstalker' Ion | 1989 Line SI Bushmaster SI Deluxe
First Strike Round Field Listing | External Ballistics, FSRs and PBs | My Feedback
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Kaye -in response to FS price critics
Unfortunately all of you have played the one "speedball" game of paintball for so long you can't conceive of other ways to do this and hence any new ideas seem stupid.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crimson Death View Post
First strike rounds punish lazy people. Don't be lazy and you won't have problems with first strikes.
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Old 05-09-2014, 02:17 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uv_halo View Post
With the stock/tank adapter installed, look at it from the rear. It looks like there are four screws holding it to the gun body, surrouinding the female ASA threading . Three of the screws (top left, top right, lower left) actually hold the Adapter to the body. The bottom right screw is actually a smaller screw with an o-ring. This smaller screw and o-ring will plug the hole/air path in the lower right corner of the gun body.

That's it.
sweet.

on that smaller screw, it's washered by an o-ring, but there's also already an o-ring between the body and adapter. am i supposed to remove 1 of them (which one)?
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Old 05-23-2014, 01:15 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Sorry for not responding sooner. In case you didn't get the answer (and for any others with similar questions):

The tiny o-ring between the body and the ASA is only there to create a sealed air path between the body and the ASA when using the back bottle or, remote line setup. When not using the ASA / stock adapter, the o-ring is removed and replaced by the screw with the washered o-ring.
__________________
FN303SD Totmacher 13 | SP 'Woodstalker' Ion | 1989 Line SI Bushmaster SI Deluxe
First Strike Round Field Listing | External Ballistics, FSRs and PBs | My Feedback
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Kaye -in response to FS price critics
Unfortunately all of you have played the one "speedball" game of paintball for so long you can't conceive of other ways to do this and hence any new ideas seem stupid.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crimson Death View Post
First strike rounds punish lazy people. Don't be lazy and you won't have problems with first strikes.
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Old 05-24-2014, 03:13 AM   #19 (permalink)
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thanks. i think i'll actually leave the adapter in the gun. i bought an asa-to-1/8npt and a gauge and i'm just going to plug the adapter with them.
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