Sear Spring Question

Deadfall · 05-10-2006, 07:07 PM

Here's the set-up: I have a Pro-Lite that I have installed a Pro/Carbine .45 grip frame on. The frame has a Shenko trigger-stop safety on it and a trigger spring that I cannibalized from a Maddman spring kit for my 98C.

Here's the problem: This past weekend the sear spring somehow managed to break on me during the Libria scenario game at Realms of Ruin. The loop in the spring that connects it to the sear just snapped right off while I was blasting away at the opposing team.

Here's what I did to fix it: I used a spare trigger spring from my 98 to replace the busted sear spring. The loop on the trigger spring was such that it was easier to install than the spare sear spring from my stock Pro-Lite grip frame.

Here's my question: Will the use of this spring have any adverse effects on the sear or the hammer? It is quite a bit lighter than the normal sear spring. Does the sear spring need to be as heavy as it is or is it OK to use a lighter one? I've test-fired it several times and the sear seems to engage the hammer just fine, but I'm wondering if the lighter spring isn't allowing it to catch as "positively" as it should and if this will cause increased wear.

Any input would be greatly appreciated!

Oh, and for those that might be wondering- The lighter sear spring doesn't seem to have any effect on the weight of the trigger pull.

IDF · 05-10-2006, 08:28 PM

Well, it can have negative results after a while.

After the spring you put it will get used and get weaker, you will need to replace it again. The signs of this will be the sear not being able to catch the hammer, and causing what we call, jackhammering.

I suggest that instead of riding on this weak spring for now, you should take a visit to the hardware store and get a stronger spring.

IDF

Deadfall · 05-11-2006, 02:16 AM

Thanks!

Well, I have a proper sear spring, it's just that it's a pain in the butt to get the loop into the tiny little hole on the sear.

The sear from the stock grip frame is slightly different in that it has a hook type thing that the loop fits onto instead of having to fit it into a hole. I tried using that sear instead, but it doesn't seem to agree with the Shenko safety. Pulling the trigger doesn't move the sear enough to disengage the hammer.

No shortcuts this time, I guess!

IDF · 05-11-2006, 10:31 AM

well, there is.

To avoid the jackhammering in the future, by using a stronger sear spring (that you said won't engage the hammer correctly with the shenko safety right?)
well there is a solution. You can always file down the sear ledge on the hammer. There are more ways to solve this, but I don't think I want to confuse you with excess information and methods that you won't use.

Anyway...if you have anymore questions that are more complicated or if you want more advice, you can always visit the carbine/pro lite owner's group. www.flashsplat.com/forum

thanks.

Chappy · 05-11-2006, 10:42 AM

I'd try swapping the trigger and sear springs your currently using. Put the lighter one on the trigger and the heavier one on the sear. You'll still hafta deal with gettin the spring onto the sear, but your end result should be a lighter trigger and a reliable setup.

Deadfall · 05-11-2006, 11:17 AM

Chappy- The trigger spring is already lighter than the spring I'm using on the sear; it's a lightened M98 spring. The one on the sear is a stock 98 trigger spring.

IDF- I had assumed that it was the stock Pro-Lite sear that wasn't working correctly with the safety. I'll test the Pro-Lite sear with the lighter spring to see if it was the sear or the spring tension that wasn't working with the safety.

Chappy · 05-11-2006, 01:47 PM

I had that backwards, I follow you now. I'd just go through the pita of putting the stock spring on the sear that works if I were you.

I'd say that the prolite sear isn't working with the safety. It should work fine with the hammer, since the sears from a carbine and prolite are interchangable. My guess is that your carbine sear was modified to work with the safety. IIRC the Enos Shenk safety doesn't work "out of the box" and requires mods to other parts of the gun.

Deadfall · 05-11-2006, 03:14 PM

Nope, the Carbine sear was never modified. I bought the Carb grip frame and the Shenko safety from County Sports at the same time. I dropped the safety into the frame and then put the frame on the Pro-Lite and it worked fine.

I have heard about people having trouble getting the Shenko safeties to work properly, though. I'm guessing that the safety is made to provide the absolute bare minimum of travel needed to trip the sear. So much so that slight inconsistencies between sears can cause problems.

It wouldn't surprise me if Tippmann's tolerances on the sears were a bit on the loose side.

05-10-2006, 07:07 PM	#1 (permalink)
Deadfall Seasoned Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Chicago, IL Posts: 623	Sear Spring Question Here's the set-up: I have a Pro-Lite that I have installed a Pro/Carbine .45 grip frame on. The frame has a Shenko trigger-stop safety on it and a trigger spring that I cannibalized from a Maddman spring kit for my 98C. Here's the problem: This past weekend the sear spring somehow managed to break on me during the Libria scenario game at Realms of Ruin. The loop in the spring that connects it to the sear just snapped right off while I was blasting away at the opposing team. Here's what I did to fix it: I used a spare trigger spring from my 98 to replace the busted sear spring. The loop on the trigger spring was such that it was easier to install than the spare sear spring from my stock Pro-Lite grip frame. Here's my question: Will the use of this spring have any adverse effects on the sear or the hammer? It is quite a bit lighter than the normal sear spring. Does the sear spring need to be as heavy as it is or is it OK to use a lighter one? I've test-fired it several times and the sear seems to engage the hammer just fine, but I'm wondering if the lighter spring isn't allowing it to catch as "positively" as it should and if this will cause increased wear. Any input would be greatly appreciated! Oh, and for those that might be wondering- The lighter sear spring doesn't seem to have any effect on the weight of the trigger pull.

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05-10-2006, 08:28 PM	#2 (permalink)
IDF Rec Poster Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 79	Well, it can have negative results after a while. After the spring you put it will get used and get weaker, you will need to replace it again. The signs of this will be the sear not being able to catch the hammer, and causing what we call, jackhammering. I suggest that instead of riding on this weak spring for now, you should take a visit to the hardware store and get a stronger spring. IDF

05-11-2006, 02:16 AM	#3 (permalink)
Deadfall Seasoned Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Chicago, IL Posts: 623	Thanks! Well, I have a proper sear spring, it's just that it's a pain in the butt to get the loop into the tiny little hole on the sear. The sear from the stock grip frame is slightly different in that it has a hook type thing that the loop fits onto instead of having to fit it into a hole. I tried using that sear instead, but it doesn't seem to agree with the Shenko safety. Pulling the trigger doesn't move the sear enough to disengage the hammer. No shortcuts this time, I guess!

05-11-2006, 10:31 AM	#4 (permalink)
IDF Rec Poster Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 79	well, there is. To avoid the jackhammering in the future, by using a stronger sear spring (that you said won't engage the hammer correctly with the shenko safety right?) well there is a solution. You can always file down the sear ledge on the hammer. There are more ways to solve this, but I don't think I want to confuse you with excess information and methods that you won't use. Anyway...if you have anymore questions that are more complicated or if you want more advice, you can always visit the carbine/pro lite owner's group. www.flashsplat.com/forum thanks.

05-11-2006, 10:42 AM	#5 (permalink)
Chappy All Hail King Skippy!! Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Phillipsburg, NJ Posts: 2,280	I'd try swapping the trigger and sear springs your currently using. Put the lighter one on the trigger and the heavier one on the sear. You'll still hafta deal with gettin the spring onto the sear, but your end result should be a lighter trigger and a reliable setup.

05-11-2006, 11:17 AM	#6 (permalink)
Deadfall Seasoned Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Chicago, IL Posts: 623	Chappy- The trigger spring is already lighter than the spring I'm using on the sear; it's a lightened M98 spring. The one on the sear is a stock 98 trigger spring. IDF- I had assumed that it was the stock Pro-Lite sear that wasn't working correctly with the safety. I'll test the Pro-Lite sear with the lighter spring to see if it was the sear or the spring tension that wasn't working with the safety.

05-11-2006, 01:47 PM	#7 (permalink)
Chappy All Hail King Skippy!! Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Phillipsburg, NJ Posts: 2,280	I had that backwards, I follow you now. I'd just go through the pita of putting the stock spring on the sear that works if I were you. I'd say that the prolite sear isn't working with the safety. It should work fine with the hammer, since the sears from a carbine and prolite are interchangable. My guess is that your carbine sear was modified to work with the safety. IIRC the Enos Shenk safety doesn't work "out of the box" and requires mods to other parts of the gun.

05-11-2006, 03:14 PM	#8 (permalink)
Deadfall Seasoned Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Chicago, IL Posts: 623	Nope, the Carbine sear was never modified. I bought the Carb grip frame and the Shenko safety from County Sports at the same time. I dropped the safety into the frame and then put the frame on the Pro-Lite and it worked fine. I have heard about people having trouble getting the Shenko safeties to work properly, though. I'm guessing that the safety is made to provide the absolute bare minimum of travel needed to trip the sear. So much so that slight inconsistencies between sears can cause problems. It wouldn't surprise me if Tippmann's tolerances on the sears were a bit on the loose side.