Paintball

[motorcity_madman]

The original versions please.Also can anyone tell me if the internals are the same on both guns?I have an old sl68 leaking down the barrel and would like to get this old girl running again

Also is the likely culprit a cup seal?

Thanks

[sdawg]

Besides some cosmetic differences, the new version has a standard size feed neck. The old version has a smaller feed neck for the old 40 round ammo boxes.

The cup seal is the first thong to check.

[capitalpaintball]

Hes talking the SL 1 and the original SL II. big difference is the bottle placement. back bottle on the 1 and bottom line on the II.
Although the valves remove differently, I believe the cup seal to be the same. the hammer and bolt are different. I have never tried to swap parts.

There are 2 o-rings on the valve that rot. same ones still used in 98/A-5 valves. order from Tippmann and the cup seals should also be available from Tippmann(still used on the New SL II)

[tangus999]

capital is right on. new cup seal and two new valve orings
the internals are similar but different. I've been told you can swap the front bolt and hammer but only is you do them together and it's only from the 2 to the one not the other way. j haven't tried this but prolly will at some pointi. don't forget to remove the powertube to take out both screws and then a blast of air to pop it but don't hit yourself with the tube. needle nose nose pliers gently work also.

[motorcity_madman]

Thanks a lot for the info guys.I may be back with more questions after I order some parts from Tippmann

[Spider!]

Also, when you re-install, the original valve body is relatively soft. If you tighten down much on the body screws it will deform. It is soft enough to press back into shape after that.

Just use blue loctite and don't tighten much.

When did the SL-68II get the adjustable bolt? Is that the new release, or was it like that before?

Part of the bottle placement was the change in grips. The SL-68 has the m-16 style grip mount, where the II is all cast together.

I like the SL-68. Can you change the springs and internals to something smoother and lighter?***Is the SL-68II hammer and bolt an big improvement?

[capitalpaintball]

SL1 has a velocity adjustable hammer. there is a screw sticking straight thru from the front to the back. as you tighten it it sticks further out the back limiting the power tube from opening as much. so clockwise is velocity down. you have to pull the bolt to get at it so its a bit tuff at the chrono.

The SL II has an air blocking screw in the side of the bolt. accessed thru the window. just like all current Tippmann guns, clockwise turns the gun down by blocking air to the ball.

The new SL II uses the same thing.

[Spider!]

Originally Posted by capitalpaintball

SL1 has a velocity adjustable hammer. there is a screw sticking straight thru from the front to the back. as you tighten it it sticks further out the back limiting the power tube from opening as much. so clockwise is velocity down. you have to pull the bolt to get at it so its a bit tuff at the chrono.

The SL II has an air blocking screw in the side of the bolt. accessed thru the window. just like all current Tippmann guns, clockwise turns the gun down by blocking air to the ball.

The new SL II uses the same thing.

Hah, there's something I knew and something I didn't. I forgot to say "externally adjustable". That old hammer adjustment might as well be done with shims. Not friendly at all.

I always thought that screw in the II hammer was like the old adjustable piranha hammers, with a ball bearing underneath to tighten the spring. No wonder I've never seen anyone talk about how efficient their SL-68II is.