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Old 07-11-2011, 11:59 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Hammer weight, built in inefficency of the full auto system. Those are my first two guesses.
Yeah, that's probably true. My first set of ideas included lightening the hammer and things like that, but then told myself that those are the reasons why it acts the way it does.

What really shocks me is the way that it dumps a set amount of air and the way to turn down the FPS is to obstruct the air passage. I'm wondering if I can make a new power tube that will maybe allow for a lower volume to begin with instead of a big volume that you restrict to tone down the FPS. I have all day fills, so filling after each game isn't that big of a deal. The main focus right now is to get it up and running, efficiency later if ever.
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Old 07-12-2011, 05:02 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Yeah, that's probably true. My first set of ideas included lightening the hammer and things like that, but then told myself that those are the reasons why it acts the way it does.

What really shocks me is the way that it dumps a set amount of air and the way to turn down the FPS is to obstruct the air passage. I'm wondering if I can make a new power tube that will maybe allow for a lower volume to begin with instead of a big volume that you restrict to tone down the FPS. I have all day fills, so filling after each game isn't that big of a deal. The main focus right now is to get it up and running, efficiency later if ever.
The F/A uses the same kind of endcap as the carbine series, right? In that case you could get an RVA on there, and then ditch the velocity screw. Well, not exactly. You can either twist it out and Loctite it or cut it down so that it doesn't obstruct air passage. But, suffice is to say, you'd be removing it's function.

Dorosports still sells an RVA for the Carbine, and loads of people have old ones. I'm actually waiting for one to arrive in the mail, purchased from a fellow MCB'er.
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Old 07-12-2011, 09:54 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Then I'd also probably have to tune the shocks as well since that is probably balanced from Tippy.
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Old 07-12-2011, 06:12 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Can you kind of explain how the whole system works.
I'm really confused.
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The prototype is usually the hardest - then come the refinements then the ooohs and the aaaahs but they are always preceded by the !#@!@#! and the !#!!#@!% and the GAAAAAAHS
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Old 07-12-2011, 06:40 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Can you kind of explain how the whole system works.
I'm really confused.
There are a couple threads on here. Basically the shocks on top act as secondary/teritiary sears, which either lock or retard the forward motion of the hammer. This slows down the "paperclip mod" full auto speed to something usable.

The Star Feed is a Cyclone that is wound up with a spring instead of powered with a burst of air.

It should be fairly trivial to mount a Rip Clip on a F/A if you're so inclined (just need to rig up a new attachment block, sadly the stock picatinny style doesn't quite fit), and don't mind batteries.

I have plans to put a Cyclone on mine as soon as I can find the proper air fitting or stop being too lazy to make one. Basically the conversion is to replace the velocity adjuster screw with a hollow threaded rod (1/2-28) which is longer and protrudes from the bottom of the body. Screw that into one side of a brass block, and add a hose barb on one remaining side of the block to hook up to the Cyclone. Firing gets you a burst of air down the power tube, some of which gets diverted down the now hollow velocity screw and to the Cyclone. It won't be pretty but it should work..might run into problems at the wrong field with the exposed velocity screw/hose barb block being considered an external toolless velocity adjust, but I figure if they let you play with a F/A anyway, you're probably fine.
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Old 07-12-2011, 07:33 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Roughly, the two sears on the top of the marker slow down the bolt. How much depends on how you adjust them. Beyond that, I'm not sure exactly how they work yet. The other portion of that is the selector. When it's on auto, it looks like there is nothing stopping the hammer aside from the shocks and its mass.
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Old 07-12-2011, 07:55 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Ok, bps tuning depends on shocks and hammer mass.


Hmmmm.

A rip clip on this would be epic.


Come on dt1. I know you want to mod this thing.
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Originally Posted by Stitch View Post
The prototype is usually the hardest - then come the refinements then the ooohs and the aaaahs but they are always preceded by the !#@!@#! and the !#!!#@!% and the GAAAAAAHS
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Old 07-12-2011, 07:57 PM   #28 (permalink)
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No way! High BPS when needed and no batteries to boot? Sounds like a winner to me.
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Old 07-12-2011, 08:56 PM   #29 (permalink)
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No batteries is great and all, but you have to constantly wind it. I mean, how much tension can you store in it
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Originally Posted by Stitch View Post
The prototype is usually the hardest - then come the refinements then the ooohs and the aaaahs but they are always preceded by the !#@!@#! and the !#!!#@!% and the GAAAAAAHS
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Old 07-12-2011, 09:49 PM   #30 (permalink)
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No batteries is great and all, but you have to constantly wind it. I mean, how much tension can you store in it
1 wind is about 10 balls...no more than 15 winds recommended...so one charge gets you about a hopper full. It will take all the Cyclone hoppers (have to dremel down the little locking nub), including the big 400'ers.
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