mcarterbrown.com  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-11-2011, 02:30 AM   #1 (permalink)
1-113 Cav 2 BCT 34 ID
 
SPC. Cejka's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sioux City, Iowa
Send a message via MSN to SPC. Cejka Send a message via Yahoo to SPC. Cejka

CCM Fan
A5 pump gun

I was wondering if anyone has messed around with a a5 valve and could help me get it so it won't blow back I want a single shot a5 to create a custom with
SPC. Cejka is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2011, 01:09 PM   #2 (permalink)
Now in 3D!
 
dark_controller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Icebox-o-the nation, MN

AKA Fan
Brass N Wood Fan
you could alway do what i did, just disconnect the cyclone feed air line and plug the hole, and just pump the lever everytime for a pump.
__________________
My Feedback 10/0/0
Current Arsenal: PGP, PMI Black Maxx, Tiberius T15
dark_controller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2011, 04:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
Active Member
 
dirty harold's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011

thats no fun try this
Shotgun: KRA's First Real Mod - Mossberg M500 - YouTube
dirty harold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2011, 02:04 AM   #4 (permalink)
Live Die Burn
 
magmoormaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Orem, UT

There are a few different ways to eliminate valve blowback. You can either get a new valve pin that is a bigger diameter so it doesn't allow air to escape from the back of the valve, or you can make a resrictor plate that is essentially a plate that's attached to the back of the valve to make the hole around the pin smaller, thus accomplishing the same thing.

The restrictor plate is ther most common way to do it. Most people JB weld a penny or something to the back of the valve. Using that method works ok, but the force of the hammer striking the valve repeatedly tends to crack the JB weld after time. The other way to do it is to get a relatively hard piece of rubber like from a mask visor, drill 2 holes in the valve and the rubber, and bolt said rubber onto the valve. This method is a little trickier to achieve a good seal as th rubber tends to be difficult to cut to exact tolerances. This is the method I used on my 98 pump.

The method that I would recommend, however, is to get a new valve pin. I've heard that you can drill out the valve a bit and use a PGP valve pin, and that it works really well.
__________________
Feedback

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad Thompson View Post
Who is this Chad Thompson you all are talking about?
magmoormaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2011, 01:28 AM   #5 (permalink)
Post Whore
 
danssoslow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011

Could he not simply take the o-ring off of the hammer? Maybe turn/grind the end of the hammer where the o-ring mounts if it still cocks back? Would that not be enough make the power tube vent around the hammer?

I'll even send you my 1st gen hammer (you provide the shipping) if you want to try that out. The "neck" on that thing is quite a bit thinner than the new gens.
danssoslow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2011, 06:03 PM   #6 (permalink)
Live Die Burn
 
magmoormaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Orem, UT

That works, but the hammer gets pushed back a little bit and bounces off the valve a few times. I ran my 98 pump like that for a while and I got horrid efficiency. I mean less than 200 shots out of a 48/30.
__________________
Feedback

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad Thompson View Post
Who is this Chad Thompson you all are talking about?
magmoormaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2011, 02:18 AM   #7 (permalink)
Post Whore
 
danssoslow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011

Quote:
Originally Posted by magmoormaster View Post
That works, but the hammer gets pushed back a little bit and bounces off the valve a few times. I ran my 98 pump like that for a while and I got horrid efficiency. I mean less than 200 shots out of a 48/30.
I was thinking about this shortly after posting. Energy taking the least path of resistance, all of that pressure held in by that o ring would now leak like a sieve out the back and around the hammer, serving absolutely no purpose but to destroy efficiency.

Sealing off the vale aside; what keeps the spring from making the hammer rest against the pin? Did you have to cut the spring down to allow the hammer to rest off of the pin?
danssoslow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2011, 08:06 PM   #8 (permalink)
Live Die Burn
 
magmoormaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Orem, UT

Nah, the pressure in the valve does it. I cut my spring down quite a bit, but only to lower velocity. But before I did that it worked just fine.
__________________
Feedback

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad Thompson View Post
Who is this Chad Thompson you all are talking about?
magmoormaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

  mcarterbrown.com » Paintball » The Armory » Tippmann

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:58 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO
© MCB Network LLC