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Old 01-23-2014, 08:33 PM   #21 (permalink)
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The zip tie mod works pretty well. I rebuild the shocks so that I can cycle in full auto and be sure the Cyclone keeps up. And it really does a great job of keeping up.

Though its no fault of Cyclone, my F/A really doesn't like to play nice with it. The amount of air that's diverted to the Cyclone seems to be affecting the guns ability to reliably re-cock itself. As long as there's a back pressure from paint or a plugged barrel, the gun resets just fine. As soon as I fire on an empty chamber, the hammer just bounces away.

Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this? Basically my ideas so far are;

1) Weaker hammer spring; decrease the force opposing the resetting of the hammer.

2) Weaker Valve spring; More air out the back, increase the force that resets the hammer.

3) Increase the diameter of the air hole in the back of the valve; More air out the back, increase the force that resets the hammer.

4) Increase Tank Input pressure; More pressure out the back, increase the force that resets the hammer.





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sie15wDPNNU
Hi ALL,

For the record...

It is doing the full auto thing because you are sucking too much back pressure. The banjo placement is in the wrong spot. It needs to be in the front exhaust path. Use the velocity adjust port for the banjo mounting. You should have enough exhaust to run the Cyclone without burping/full auto at that placement.

All Tippmanns have their RT/Cyclone port positioned in the front exhaust path. If it was placed in the rear exhaust path, it would mean that the marker would lose sufficient pressure to cause recocking issues, like full auto or uncontrolled burping.

Also, trying running liquid CO2 or high output compressed air.

-Smiley
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:38 PM   #22 (permalink)
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P.S. - use an uncutt prolite spring for the hammer. Cut springs will decrease the exhaust.

Smiley
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:45 PM   #23 (permalink)
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P.S.S. Some of the burping is attributed to the bad hammer o ring. Put a new one - fresh one from Tippmann.

Smiley
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Old 01-24-2014, 12:14 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infamoussmiley View Post
Hi ALL,

For the record...

It is doing the full auto thing because you are sucking too much back pressure. The banjo placement is in the wrong spot. It needs to be in the front exhaust path. Use the velocity adjust port for the banjo mounting. You should have enough exhaust to run the Cyclone without burping/full auto at that placement.

All Tippmanns have their RT/Cyclone port positioned in the front exhaust path. If it was placed in the rear exhaust path, it would mean that the marker would lose sufficient pressure to cause recocking issues, like full auto or uncontrolled burping.

Also, trying running liquid CO2 or high output compressed air.

-Smiley

I tried that first actually, it kind of worked. With the banjo tapped into the velocity adjuster, if you dont have a ball in the chamber, the cyclone wont cycle properly and the F/A bounces uncontrollably. That's not horrible, but when you get down to the dregs of your hopper, you would have to make sure you top off.


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Originally Posted by Echo View Post

And swapping the 1/16" banjos with 1/8" banjos produced this result;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2lomiNSJpg

Overall it does work, but as you can see in the video, if theres no paint in the breech then the cyclone doesnt cycle. To fix this I'll probably drill and tap the body for the banjo fittings. First I'll fix the partial feed issue.


I have noticed it works much better on CO2 than HPA and gets velocity. I may try a high pressure reg setup for HPA. In any case, I like the banjo where it is because the cyclone cycles flawlessly. It shouldn't take much to get the gun cycling correctly, I just need to fix a new bolt I made that was causing some jams. I just haven't tinkered with it since that last video.
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