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Old 08-04-2013, 06:43 PM   #11 (permalink)
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The way Stanchy bored the SL68ii barrel slightly further. This prevents the bolt and bolt oring from sealing inside the insert but rather just in front of it as far as I can tell.
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:23 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I actually have a stock Pro-Lite barrel (same threads as the A5, I believe) that Stanchy bored out. I realized after he'd done it that the bolt might be an issue and didn't want to risk damaging the bolt or an insert, so I never bothered trying it out. If you think you want to try it out, I'll let it go for $15, shipped.
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:33 AM   #13 (permalink)
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sooooo


what i know:

98 custom
-Standard Freak Bore (flush) jams on the bolt

Tipx
-Standard Freak Bore (flush) jams on the stock bolt if under .687 insert
*turn the tip of the stock bolt down, works flawlessly
*bad karma bolt works with freak inserts

A5/X7
-no data
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Old 08-08-2013, 09:39 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Yeah, I tried the largest insert I have (.685) and the bolt in my Pro-Lite jams. I actually shaved it down a bit years ago because it was occasionally sticking in a stainless J&J (.691, I think?). If spare bolts were readily available, I'd be all for turning it down more and mounting a smaller o-ring to make it work with the inserts I have. But, even with fairly small paint (shot great through a .680 in another gun), it shoots pretty damn straight. And, Tippmanns (esp. Pro-Lites) have never been known for their efficiency, so I'm not sure there would be any significant improvement for the amount of work involved.
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Old 08-09-2013, 10:23 PM   #15 (permalink)
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So how tight can the bore be with the a5 BEFORE the bolt begins to grab? And can we confirm that any of the after market bolts negate this?
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