![]() |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
|
![]() |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| | #1 (permalink) |
| Newbie Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Charleston WV | 68 Carbine field strip help First post w00t! Anyhow, I aquired a 68 carbine the other day and am having a bit of trouble getting the valve/ power tube assembly out, I looked for the valve stop(under the front grip threaded bushing) and it did not appear to be there but I still cant get the valve out(btw, does it come out the front or back?). I dont want to push on it too hard for fear of bending the tube. Also I need a few parts: connecting rod, valve stop, feedneck assembly, and rear sight. I can get all of them from tippmannparts.com except the sight, will a procarbine sight or a prolite sight do the trick? All help is appreciated |
| | |
| | #4 (permalink) |
| Rec Poster Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Normal, IL | The Pro-Carbine sight will work fine with some simple modification. I should have some Pro-Series parts up for sale in a few weeks; sorry I can't say for sure if any of the items you listed will be on my list though. Anyway here is the trick to getting the internals out...front to back. First remove the front valve, valve stop, velocity adjustor, etc. Take a ratchet handle and lightly push\tap on the power tube from the front...careful this part is easy to damage. Once the top of the valve can be seen though one of the openings on the body use an allen wrench or a small screw driver and lightly tap the valve out with a hammer. The idea is to apply as little force to the power tube as possible. Minor scratches to the valve won't effect operation. Before assembly make sure the front bolt slides smoothly onto the power tube. You may need to clean up any jagged edges or damage caused by the removal that would cause the bolt to catch. I would avoid removing the valve and power tube on Pro-Series markers unless it is absolutely necessary. You can clean around the power tube and valve with Q-tips and a barrel swab. Removing these parts causes undue wear on older markers as they start to stick on the way out. Also, the 68-Carbine has two valve types, the Pro-lite valve with a stop and Pro-Carbine valve with no stop. Internally these are two very different markers. You also want to know that the Pro-Carbine connecting rod may not work, exact length is important and they do vary between models. I’ll try to post the correct size if I get the chance. Last edited by Crewchief; 02-04-2008 at 08:19 AM.. |
| | |
| | #5 (permalink) |
| Newbie Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Charleston WV | Hey, thanks for the replied guys. I got the valve assembly out last night by using a piece of plastic coat hanger and putting it through the powertube and pushing on the valve itself. Everything looked good in it, though the powertube is a bit scratched up it works just fine. Crewchief, my valve looks yery simmilar to a 98c valve, just without a plastic powertube around it, can you tell me what type it is? I've only had 98c, a5's, and now a 68 special apart, as far as tippmanns go, so I dont know what type it is. Any other special precautions to take? Thanks |
| | |
| | #6 (permalink) |
| All Hail King Skippy!! Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Phillipsburg, NJ | You have a newer cvx type valve. But crewcheif is somewhat mistaken. The 68 carbine had 2 different valve types, but the original was not a prolite valve. The prolite valve sipmly won't fit and seal in a 68 carbine body, but the cvx was a directr drop in replacement for the original 68 carb valve. But like I said you have the later version. Oh yeah, and the procarb site will fit on a 68 carbine without modification(so will the prolite site, though its a slightly different fut). the 68 carb and the procarb are essentially the same gun, other than the foregrip system. The 68carbs rail extends to the front of the body, so the feedelbow can slide onto it, but the procarbs front rail is milled off so the foregrip can slide on. The only other difference was the early valves on the 68carb, but they're pretty rare as they weren't out long and many were replaced with the cvx valve. So procarb parts are direct replcaements, except for the feed elbow and foredrip. Even the connecting rod is the same between carb and procarb, its the prolite that has a different lenght rod.
__________________ My Feedback: http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/s...3932#post13932 "They wouldn't pay me more to bury you rich than to bury you poor." Soundgarden Last edited by Chappy; 02-05-2008 at 11:45 AM.. |
| | |
![]() |
|
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|