SL68-II Questions

Kraus · 11-11-2006, 05:01 PM

I just recently aquired two SL68-II's that need some care, and I'm completely new to these markers, so I have a few questions:

1. Is there anything I need to know about taking them apart? The inside looks pretty dirty, so I'll probably have to completely disassemble them.

2. Are there any hoppers that fit the feednecks that don't require an adapter?

3. How do I adjust the velocity?

Thanks for your help!

Duckster · 11-13-2006, 11:38 AM

Well, I can speak to one and three...

1) when you take the valve out, use a piece of dowel and a hammer. I learned this after replacing my first valve. Wish I knew it beforehand, so I wouldn't have had to replace it.

2) I made a stock class feed out of copper pipe, and I had to dremel/file down the end of the pipe to make it fit without a feedneck. I doubt there are any hoppers that fit.

3) there is a small allan screw on the left side of the marker on the bolt. Screw it out to increase velocity, screw it in to slow things down. When I got my sl68, I had to change the springs and o-rings to get it over 225. Once I did though, I've hit 305, so it may be something to consider. I was able to get the springs/seals from tippmannparts.com. Good luck!

Railgun · 11-13-2006, 11:58 AM

I just went through this with a gummed up SL68 as well. The stuff all came out easily other than the valve. I sprayed a good shot of WD40 down both ends and let it soak while I looked up some data on the 'net just like you're doing. DUcksters got the right idea about using a length of dowel to LIGHTLY tap out the valve. Insert the dowel down through the front and push the valve out the back. Obviously the rear cap and spring need to be out before you do that. A lot of lighter taps is far better than one good whack. If it doesn't move at all after 4 or 5 then start hitting it harder for a few at a time until it moves.

Edit, I only mention the direction it needs to go because it wasn't all that obvious when I looked down the ends into the dark.

You can download a PDF of the manual from Tippmann as well. It's got a great blowup diagram.

Eagle One Wet plastic and rubber detailer does a great job of restoring the pump handle. Just clean it really well and apply the detailer cream with an old toothbrush, let sit for a minute or two and then polish it off with some paper towels. It also works nice on the body paint. Just apply and polish off. Do the barrel and inside of the pump as well. Makes it slide nice but won't hold dirt like oil or grease would. In fact because it dries with a slippery but dry feel I've even done the insides of barrels as well. But for those I make sure I polish it out really, really well with waddings of paper towel pushed back and forth with a plastic rod I have. Keep polishing it until the paper comes out totally dry and with very little smell of the cream. The slight trace left is all you need. No metal in there of course. You don't want to risk sratching the insides of the barrel.

Kraus · 11-13-2006, 01:18 PM

Thanks for the help!

g35x · 11-15-2006, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kraus

2. Are there any hoppers that fit the feednecks that don't require an adapter?

those 50 round WGP ammo boxes

(soon to be mine)

paintballwizard · 11-23-2006, 07:28 PM

Actually the sl's where very speacial they have different springs for them not the same size as other nelson designs and hopper size that is why the made adapters to fit regulay bigger hoppers, and I am not positive but I dont think the wgp ones work because they work on cocker feednecks and they are 1".

paintballwizard

wespe · 11-24-2006, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paintballwizard

Actually the sl's where very speacial they have different springs for them not the same size as other nelson designs

True, I am trying to replace mine right now (worn out), and it has been a pain to find a properly sized spring. If you need one, go to tippmannparts.com first. They have the stock parts.

As to hoppers, make an adapter using 3/4 CPVC. Sand it down to fit in the neck of the marker, then glue it into the hopper. Should fit nicely in the hopper neck, looks clean, and grips well (don't paint it or you will lose the grip).

paintballwizard · 11-24-2006, 07:59 PM

I know tippmannparts.com has them, and I have a ton for these guns already and I have 3 sl-1's right now.

11-11-2006, 05:01 PM	#1 (permalink)
Kraus Old School Wannabe Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: All around Missouri Posts: 223	SL68-II Questions I just recently aquired two SL68-II's that need some care, and I'm completely new to these markers, so I have a few questions: 1. Is there anything I need to know about taking them apart? The inside looks pretty dirty, so I'll probably have to completely disassemble them. 2. Are there any hoppers that fit the feednecks that don't require an adapter? 3. How do I adjust the velocity? Thanks for your help!

11-13-2006, 11:58 AM	#3 (permalink)
Railgun MCB Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 2,196	I just went through this with a gummed up SL68 as well. The stuff all came out easily other than the valve. I sprayed a good shot of WD40 down both ends and let it soak while I looked up some data on the 'net just like you're doing. DUcksters got the right idea about using a length of dowel to LIGHTLY tap out the valve. Insert the dowel down through the front and push the valve out the back. Obviously the rear cap and spring need to be out before you do that. A lot of lighter taps is far better than one good whack. If it doesn't move at all after 4 or 5 then start hitting it harder for a few at a time until it moves. Edit, I only mention the direction it needs to go because it wasn't all that obvious when I looked down the ends into the dark. You can download a PDF of the manual from Tippmann as well. It's got a great blowup diagram. Eagle One Wet plastic and rubber detailer does a great job of restoring the pump handle. Just clean it really well and apply the detailer cream with an old toothbrush, let sit for a minute or two and then polish it off with some paper towels. It also works nice on the body paint. Just apply and polish off. Do the barrel and inside of the pump as well. Makes it slide nice but won't hold dirt like oil or grease would. In fact because it dries with a slippery but dry feel I've even done the insides of barrels as well. But for those I make sure I polish it out really, really well with waddings of paper towel pushed back and forth with a plastic rod I have. Keep polishing it until the paper comes out totally dry and with very little smell of the cream. The slight trace left is all you need. No metal in there of course. You don't want to risk sratching the insides of the barrel. __________________ Witty saying to be plagarized soon..... Last edited by Railgun; 11-13-2006 at 12:13 PM.

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11-13-2006, 11:38 AM	#2 (permalink)
Duckster Active Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 148	Well, I can speak to one and three... 1) when you take the valve out, use a piece of dowel and a hammer. I learned this after replacing my first valve. Wish I knew it beforehand, so I wouldn't have had to replace it. 2) I made a stock class feed out of copper pipe, and I had to dremel/file down the end of the pipe to make it fit without a feedneck. I doubt there are any hoppers that fit. 3) there is a small allan screw on the left side of the marker on the bolt. Screw it out to increase velocity, screw it in to slow things down. When I got my sl68, I had to change the springs and o-rings to get it over 225. Once I did though, I've hit 305, so it may be something to consider. I was able to get the springs/seals from tippmannparts.com. Good luck!

11-13-2006, 01:18 PM	#4 (permalink)
Kraus Old School Wannabe Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: All around Missouri Posts: 223	Thanks for the help!

11-23-2006, 07:28 PM	#6 (permalink)
paintballwizard Rec Poster Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 40	Actually the sl's where very speacial they have different springs for them not the same size as other nelson designs and hopper size that is why the made adapters to fit regulay bigger hoppers, and I am not positive but I dont think the wgp ones work because they work on cocker feednecks and they are 1". paintballwizard

11-24-2006, 07:59 PM	#8 (permalink)
paintballwizard Rec Poster Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 40	I know tippmannparts.com has them, and I have a ton for these guns already and I have 3 sl-1's right now.