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Old 03-10-2014, 08:45 PM   #1 (permalink)
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TJD customs Nightmare mods

I just got really started on the metal work for a customers Nightmare project. First thing is first. He was looking to get a long pump handle well suffice it to say they are hard to come by so I figured I might as well make the short one into a long. I forgot to take pics of the machining process up to this point but I'll try to do so in the future.

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Old 03-10-2014, 09:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I am also going to check the Oring squeeze on the internal components. The goal there will be to see if I can alleviate some of the torn oring and leaking problems that these markers are known for.

Other things I have thoughts for.
Hammer upgrade to use RVA better
More stock looking RVA
Replace bolt spring
Upgraded Delrin bolt
Polished trigger contact points. (smoother trigger pull)

Still researching
Dye eye pipe roll out detent system
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Old 03-10-2014, 11:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Polishing the trigger was in my plans. That was the easy part for me

Myplan for the RVA though was to drill and install a phantom threaded insert at the appropriate depth of that spyder RVA so it sits flush with the back of the body. That way there would never be a concern with screwing up the threads. I just wish I could do it with the valve.

That bolt spring is brand new and correct for the gun. I don't like it. I personally feel that it is not necessary on these guns.

Delrin bolt with a diffuser of some kind?? Pretty please? Is it possible with such a small thing and so close to the end of the power tube? My only thought with a Delrin bolt is that that thumb screw for the pump handle screws directly into the bolt. Maybe a Delrin sleeve?

How do you plan to mod the hammer to better use the RVA? These guns are known to fart/burp pretty good due to very heavy hammers. This particular one didn't seem too bad to me. But just another thought there.

Are you still planning on doing a Delrin sleeve for the new pump handle?

I still haven't thought of any more detent systems. But I am a fan of wire detents, except we are still left with the same issue of the body being very thin for threads.

The valve I am sending you also has a bolt with it. They are knicked/goobered up some at the power tube tip and valve end of the bolt. The bolt spring that came with the gun when I bought it got jammed up in there during one of the reassembly attempts. Hence the new spring. Point is, if you need a spare bolt to mod, you will have it. This one has a concave face though.

Thanks again! Looking good!
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Old 03-11-2014, 01:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pghp8ntballer View Post
Polishing the trigger was in my plans. That was the easy part for me

That is a while I'm at it kinda thing.

Myplan for the RVA though was to drill and install a phantom threaded insert at the appropriate depth of that spyder RVA so it sits flush with the back of the body. That way there would never be a concern with screwing up the threads. I just wish I could do it with the valve.

not exactly sure what your envisioning here (not a phantom guy) I was just going to fabricate an RVA that fits pretty flush and uses the existing screw holes in the body.

That bolt spring is brand new and correct for the gun. I don't like it. I personally feel that it is not necessary on these guns.

I think what you will find now that the pump handle weighs so much without the spring the pump handle will just fall open.

Delrin bolt with a diffuser of some kind?? Pretty please? Is it possible with such a small thing and so close to the end of the power tube? My only thought with a Delrin bolt is that that thumb screw for the pump handle screws directly into the bolt. Maybe a Delrin sleeve?

I got to get a good look at the valve and bolt before I make any promises. No problem on screwing into delrin. the bolt has no force on it other than the spring. when cocking the marker all the force is on the rear screw.

How do you plan to mod the hammer to better use the RVA? These guns are known to fart/burp pretty good due to very heavy hammers. This particular one didn't seem too bad to me. But just another thought there.

its more like better using the spring. since the hammer has a flat back the spring can wonder around on the back of the hammer. putting a pocket on the back of the bolt and a spring guide in the rva will make a smoother more consistent pump stroke and valve open cycle.

Are you still planning on doing a Delrin sleeve for the new pump handle?

Yes

I still haven't thought of any more detent systems. But I am a fan of wire detents, except we are still left with the same issue of the body being very thin for threads.

The valve I am sending you also has a bolt with it. They are knicked/goobered up some at the power tube tip and valve end of the bolt. The bolt spring that came with the gun when I bought it got jammed up in there during one of the reassembly attempts. Hence the new spring. Point is, if you need a spare bolt to mod, you will have it. This one has a concave face though.

Thanks again! Looking good!
Ya I am still trying to think of a good way to put SOMETHING in there to prevent roll outs.
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Old 03-11-2014, 06:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Never thought about the added weight of the pump handle.

The phantom inserts are stainless steel and threaded in 8 and 10-32. External threads are 1/4-36. They are short, but can be ground shorter for tight access. I have successfully used a 10-32 insert to repair a newer WGP lpr. Barb threads were stripped. And the hole goes into an air chamber not near a piston or spring, so no harm can be done. Now I have a fully functional lpr with stainless steel barb threads. It's one of those tinkerer pieces that I like because it can be a permanent high quality thread repair. It's superior to a heli-coil.

I used the spyder RVA because it was close and I could use the quick adjuster with it. I also used the cut down spyder springs because the are very easy to come by. But if you can come up with something nice, go ahead. The stock plugs on nightmares basically sat flush with the end of the tube.
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Putting the groves in the handle.



Lining up the handle in the mill to split



After splitting



That was enough for today next step is to contour the inner radius to match the stock part
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Old 03-13-2014, 07:39 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Looking good!
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:55 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Just walked in from the shop. I got the handle ID contoured so that it fits. I then went to make the delrin sleeve. but found out that when everything is together the handle does not seam to be coaxial with the lower bore. so I will have to make an offset doughnut so everything slides nicely.

Well since I was thwarted on finishing up the handle today I though I would make something pretty so I made a couple of these up.

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Old 03-13-2014, 09:36 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Old 03-13-2014, 09:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
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For the screws? I can whip you up a set and send them your way if you can trim them to length yourself.
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