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jason_finnie 04-28-2011 10:49 AM

Do I need a new cupseal?
Where can I get a new cupseal? Or are there o-ring replacements I can get and just re-use the metal parts? I have a leak down the barrel that won't go away.

thatfreaknguy 04-28-2011 12:38 PM

try the o-rings if that dosent work then its ur cup seal. i have seen them on ebay for 20 buck but ive also been told another markers cup seal will work too the type escapes me at the moment. but be patient and one of the wiser members of mcb will chim in and help u out, im sure.

capitalpaintball 04-28-2011 12:47 PM

the 2 orings on the valve are bottle orings, if you are removing the valve you might as well change them. inspect the valve seat on the valve pin, if it looks "hairy" or gouged it needs replacing. I have had real good success with polishing the valve seats, just put the valve pin in a high speed drill and use steel wool on the seat until its smooth.

HP_Lovecraft 04-28-2011 03:42 PM


Originally Posted by thatfreaknguy (Post 1809652)
but ive also been told another markers cup seal will work too

The older pre-99 cockers and snipers used a similar cupseal. Its slightly shorter, but does work. Lots of aftermarket companies would sell the same cupseal for both guns.

But like capitalpaintball said, smoothing out the valve seat, and adding some good lubricate can usually fix 75% of the leaks.

EDIT: Also Palmers sells new replacement tune-up kits that includes a new cupseal. PTP sells them also, but I believe have sold out of New/Old stock. Ron-ASP on ebay always seems to have them for sale.

CamoJester 05-11-2011 04:08 AM

I was trolling around for the same info. Thanks guys.

jason_finnie 05-11-2011 01:23 PM

These are older Autococker ones. Would they possibly work?

HP_Lovecraft 05-11-2011 05:40 PM


Its not ideal. They are a fraction shorter then the VM68 cupseal. But otherwise have the exact same dimentions.

That shorter length might mean you would loose 10fps that you have to make up by either adjusting the bolt/hammer/spring/pressure/etc.

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