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VM Empire Where the VM-68's and PMI-3 Come out to play

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Old 07-06-2012, 11:08 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Join Date: May 2006

Red face

Quote:
Originally Posted by chapel View Post
can you still get O-rings for the bolt?

Also, looking into converting to HPA with a remote: What would I need to do to convert to HPA and a remote?
Only if you plan on two things:

Respringing the valve to a lighter spring;

And using a HPA tank with 800 - 1000 PSI output.

You'll need to do this to get the VM to cycle properly.

Also, Ball detents - Proteam products sells them.

Hammer Orings might be tough. We are just now finding that most of the recocking, burping issues is that the hammer oring rotting to gum. Titus and I were working on the Hammer O rings that were going to be molded. Just and FYI about this oring. They aren't typically orings. They are urethane washers with round O.D. edges. Mader and Palmers have a replacement Hammer oring, but the durometer is too light and the outer edge is flat which makes them problematic.

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Old 07-06-2012, 02:52 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Location: Boston, MA

why wouldn't the 'safety' work?
the bolt slides and releases fine but I just can't get it into the safety detent.
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Old 07-06-2012, 04:10 PM   #13 (permalink)
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All mine needed this week was some oil. Same thing, ten plus in a Baxter in the basement. Need a detention tho. Used to run mine on hpa no trouble back then, no special mods that I remember. Must have been luckt
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Old 07-06-2012, 09:28 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Location: Rock City, TN

I know this sounds basic, but...I'd recommend reading the owner's manual (and anything else you can find online...), carefully tearing the gun down, checking the condition of the o-rings and valve seal, then thoroughly clean and lube as needed. These guns are tough and will survive almost anything, but with parts for the VM hard to find, and expensive when you can find `em, I like to be careful. I put my VMs away clean and lubed at the end of the season, then re-wipe and lube the innards in the spring before playing.

The VM manual recommends using teflon grease on the hammer (bottom) and Teflon oil on the bolt (top). I've used a variety of lubes over the years, including Gold Cup, whatever's on the shelf at Academy Sports, and even Taylor Lube (which is made for slushy and soft-serve machines!). I've been happiest with Violent's PB Oil and PB Jelly (grease). Bonus free advice: DO NOT leave Taylor Lube in your gun for six years. It makes the o-rings magically disappear!

As mentioned above, a couple drops of oil in the ASA are a good idea, especially if you use a bottom line. I also like to put a few drops of oil down into the bolt velocity adjustment, to ensure that it turns nicely.
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Old 07-06-2012, 09:48 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Join Date: Sep 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chapel View Post
why wouldn't the 'safety' work?
the bolt slides and releases fine but I just can't get it into the safety detent.
Do you mean the cocking handle won't tilt up into the notch? The cocking handle is screwed into a rotating collar located near the rear of the hammer (see pictures below). There's a ball bearing and spring assembly that stops the collar in one of two detent positions (safe or fire). If your bearing and/or spring are seized up or jammed, the collar may not rotate. You can see the hole that holds the bearing and spring on the left face of the collar in the bottom picture.




If you unscrew the Allen head bolt on the rear of the hammer (inside the white plastic part), the collar will slide off, and you can clean/lube/replace the parts, as needed. Even though the manual doesn't mention it, I like to grease the collar's moving parts and then use a little Loctite on the Allen bolt when I reassemble it. I've had a hammer come apart in the field and it's not fun!

A lot of this stuff is easier to demonstrate than describe. If you use Apple's FaceTime, feel free to PM me and I can walk you through some of the disassembly and maintenance.
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Old 07-06-2012, 10:54 PM   #16 (permalink)
Heavy is good.
 
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Boston, MA

yeah, the charging lever won't rotate.
I'll start yanking it apart
it's such a simple machine... if I can disassemble a car, I can figure out how to disassemble what's basically a pneumatic air pump.
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Old 07-09-2012, 03:47 PM   #17 (permalink)
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the rear screw is too tight.

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