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VM Empire Where the VM-68's and PMI-3 Come out to play

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Old 09-04-2012, 09:05 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Old VM-68 I think...

I would like to get this monster running if possible. It was given to me and has not ran in 10+ years. I have taken the bolt/hammer apart since it was sticking and all 4 o-rings on the bolt had turned to gum. The o-ring on the hammer appears to be fine but I would also like to replace it. It has a 90 degree fitting on the side near the front and one at the rear with a 45 degree elbow which is missing a hose. There is a tank on the front missing an o-ring and I am not sure if it is refillable or if a new tank is required. Is it possible to run the tank in either the front or back without the hose? I do have a plug that fits in either the front or the rear. Can the fittings be found at a plumbing store or are they a specific size? I still have to remove the ASA but I can see a spring in there and is not part of the o-ring/cup seal package available for purchase. Is there anything else I should be looking at to replace to have this thing running?


Last edited by ruffian; 09-04-2012 at 09:16 AM. Reason: add picture
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:07 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Pictures will help
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:17 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the quick reply, let me know if you require more detailed pictures.
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:33 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Tanks under 2" in diameter do no not need to be re-hydroed so the tank should be good just needs a new o-ring.

You'll need a hose to run a tank the back.

You could probably find the fittings at a place like Hose-Man but not at a hardware store and it'd be a lot easier to buy them from a paintball shop.

Its a hassle to remove the front ASA on a VM and generally not necessary.

As for the spring near the ASA I assume you're talking about the valve spring. You will need a special tool to remove the valve.
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:34 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Sure looks like a VM68 Mag. It is missing the trigger guard though. One place to look for some parts is either Palmers Pursuit or Bacci Paintball. Palmers makes some good items but they are expensive. If you need detents, go to paintballonline.com and look up the miltec parts kit. Like $3 for the kit that comes with the detent (can't really use the rest of it) but it is cheaper than the $10-15 that palmers wants for theirs.
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:47 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info, I have seen some parts on Palmer's site that I am going to get. I have been doing some reading and I will try some boiling water to get that ASA off. Can the valve be removed by other means except using a "special" tool? As for running 2 tanks, if I get a line and replace those fittings will I need a shut-off on one of the tanks or does one take over once the first is empty? Thank you all for the help, I am not looking to compete with this thing just looking to get it running to get my son some trigger time before he starts shooting my real firearms.
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Old 09-04-2012, 03:54 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The "old school" way to remove that valve is to first remove the bolt/hammer/spring/etc, then remove the screws that secure the valve, point in a safe direction, and gas-up the gun! The valve, cupseal, and spring will blow out of the gun.

Not the safest method, but I've done it many times. You can also go to the hardware store and buy a long 3/8" bolt. It will thread into the valve, and basically replicate the valve-tool. (at least I think its 3/8"? Its been a long time).

As for running dual-tanks, having an on-off helps, but not needed. I have many dual-tank guns, and I've had no trouble getting the tanks on and off, but there is a trick involved. Basically, you screw on the first tank until you hear a SLIGHT hiss, then back off enough to stop. Then screw in the 2nd tank all the way, then the first.

That hose can be found at every proshop. They are also very cheap online. An alternative is grease-gun hose. Its rated the same, and can be found at every hardware store. Even walmart.

THe fittings are usually standard 1/8"NPT or 1/4" Flare. Most stuff uses 1/8"NPT, but the advantage to using a flared hose/fitting setup is that you can install and remove the hose without removing the rear ASA. Both are at the hardware, but you have to be carefull with pressure ratings. WIth co2, it needs to be at least 1800psi WPM.

I would avoid macroline at all costs, but thats just me.
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thank you very much for the info, I should be able to get it going now.
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Old 09-04-2012, 08:12 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Trust HP to know the straight scoop. I would add that if you only have one air tank there is no need for the hose from the front to the back. You can simply find a pair of 1/8" plugs to replace the elbows and use the plug you have to plug the bottle adapter you decide not to use. If you decide to use two tanks I prefer the flared fittings and have used stainless steel brake line from the auto shop instead of hose.
If removing the valve the "old fashioned" way you may want to place the rear plug in the gun and hold a towel around the slots in the body when airing the gun up. This will help in finding all the parts that come shooting out. Also you only need a quick squirt of air to pop the valve body out so don't screw the bottle on all the way.
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Old 09-05-2012, 12:03 AM   #10 (permalink)
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When you fire it for the first time, it will put a smile on your face. The weight of the bolt rocking back and forth is something to behold.
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