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Old 01-07-2014, 04:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
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New to me: Ancient neglected PMI-3, A few questions for you.

Hey all,

So I recently have been playing around with an old PMI3 (the bolt is not ambidextrous) that I got for free in a box of old paintball stuff. I aired it up and it is venting down the barrel and would only fart after being manually cocked/fired. After taking it apart and cleaning it a bit I have found the following:

1) Lots of rust. The marker must have been damp when it was stored, if it was iron before it is rusty iron now.

2) The cup seal needs some love. There are no obvious gouges or nicks, but it was covered in rust from what I assume was a pool of rust water that later evaporated. I was able to get it mostly clean, and I'll try the toothpaste trick and see if it seals up correctly.

3) The hammer looks fine, oring is in good shape (I think). The back of the hammer is plastic, the majority of it is steel (and rusted, although very little pitting seems to have occurred).

4) The bolt has all 4 orings attached. There was some pitting at the front where old paint did its thing. When I fire the marker, the first oring passes inside the marker body (to the barrel) but the second stops just short. You can see it from the breach. Is that normal or is that oring swollen? I lubed the entire bolt with Vaseline, and that did nothing.

5) I, of course, need a new detent. The old one crumbled when I looked in its direction.

6) *Edit* When I removed the valve, I was unable to remove or really adjust the brass piece inside. I was able to turn it very slightly using a screw driver, but it would only rotate about 10-15* in either direction. Is that normal? I suspect not.

All in all, I'm pretty stoked about taking this to the field some time soon.
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Old 01-07-2014, 05:51 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Vaseline is petroleum based and will react with most o-rings in a unfriendly manner, you need to clean the Vaseline off.
You need to get a valve tool to take it out properly, or with the back bolt out place the back of the gun on a pillow and air it up, it will blow the valve body out of the back of the gun.
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Old 01-07-2014, 06:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'll wipe off the Vaseline tonight, thanks. I figured it would be a problem, but vm68 FAQ okayed it, so I figured I'd give it a shot. Thanks for the heads up.

I can get the valve assembly out of the marker (with a valve tool), but I cannot rotate the brass part inside the valve (the part with a square hole in it and a groove on one end for a plain bit screw driver). I'll try to snap a picture of what I'm talking about tonight as well.
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Old 01-07-2014, 11:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Pics:
The marker


The guts


Pitting on the bolt


The hammer


This is the valve and the part that doesn't turn
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Old 01-08-2014, 07:43 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Its been a while but IIRC that does not turn. To adjust for velocity you rotate the whole valve body so the different size holes line up with the ports.
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Old 01-08-2014, 08:40 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Its been a while but IIRC that does not turn. To adjust for velocity you rotate the whole valve body so the different size holes line up with the ports.
This, also adjusted indise the front of the bolt.

That doesn't appear to be in bad shape at all. Should be able to get it up and running without too much effort. Have fun!
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Old 03-19-2014, 02:40 AM   #7 (permalink)
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If you decide to replace the o-rings on the bolt, be careful not to lose the tiny little ball bearing that is putting tension on the "velocity adjustment" in there. One of the o-rings is holding the ball bearing in.
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Old 03-30-2014, 07:12 PM   #8 (permalink)
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If you decide to replace the o-rings on the bolt, be careful not to lose the tiny little ball bearing that is putting tension on the "velocity adjustment" in there. One of the o-rings is holding the ball bearing in.
Those orings were always a source of trouble, even when new. It didn't take much for them to swell, then you had cycling issues. Skanline and proteam had oring kits not that long ago, but you can probably find something suitable at the hardware store..... or even an aftermarket one. Many didn't even use orings.

Check the bolt to make sure it's 'clicked' in, otherwise the ball bearing will stick out. In the short term, you can drop some dimes behind the main spring. It might just be weak
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Old 03-31-2014, 02:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Those orings were always a source of trouble, even when new. It didn't take much for them to swell, then you had cycling issues. Skanline and proteam had oring kits not that long ago, but you can probably find something suitable at the hardware store..... or even an aftermarket one. Many didn't even use orings.

Check the bolt to make sure it's 'clicked' in, otherwise the ball bearing will stick out. In the short term, you can drop some dimes behind the main spring. It might just be weak
This man speaks the truth.
Yes - the bolt has a lot of friction as it is, and if the ball bearing isn't in a "click" like HPL says, it will cause even more.
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Old 04-01-2014, 01:08 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Just a commentary, I just received one and it is the same as yours. Same fittings, hoses and set up.
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