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Old 02-02-2008, 01:51 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Whats the best way to drill the hammer. I have some good bits but it seems it does not want to get started. Whats that stuff u put on before u start to drill, some kind of oil or something?

lead, I was thinking the same idea bro, what were u thinking? what kind of lead? fishing weights?

Yea, I am runnen Liquid with a stabilizer/reg

thanks fellaz!
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Old 02-04-2008, 10:53 AM   #22 (permalink)
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A reg kinda ruins the idea of liquid co2...
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Old 02-04-2008, 11:03 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Yeah, ditch the reg if you run liquid, you are just getting bursts of gas and then sputtering of liquid, going to make your day a bad one velocity and function wise.
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Old 02-04-2008, 11:20 AM   #24 (permalink)
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I don't know if it is possible, but magnets can slow down the forward travel, 1 near the RVA, 1 in the hammer. Either that, or experiment with a longer & softer spring from the hardware store.

Good luck!
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Old 02-04-2008, 11:49 AM   #25 (permalink)
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I can see how magnets might work... If it does, that's a very clever solution!
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Old 02-04-2008, 12:03 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by VM-onster View Post
Whats the best way to drill the hammer. I have some good bits but it seems it does not want to get started. Whats that stuff u put on before u start to drill, some kind of oil or something?

lead, I was thinking the same idea bro, what were u thinking? what kind of lead? fishing weights?

Yea, I am runnen Liquid with a stabilizer/reg

thanks fellaz!

Well, you'll definitely need a pretty heavy duty drill press and the hammer is a pretty hard material I'm sure, so you will need some very hard drill bits as well. It's been a long while since I've done any hardcore drilling, but we used to spray some oil on the bit when drilling through iron in the machine shop. I'm not sure what it was, but it might have been a WD-40 like product. We were using it to try to extend the life of the bits, I don't know if it did.

Once you hollow out an internal cavity, I was thinking fishing weight lead would work fine. It will probably work best if the lead is well secured insde the hamer and the weight is evenly distributed. Perhaps pouring premeasured doses of molten lead in would be the best. But, as long as the weight is even and secure, it should work.

Edit: I was thinking some more, and if you don't want to melt the lead, you could get some lead balls (like muzzle loader ammo, or large shotgun shot) and drill the hole to fit, then pound them in. They should be fairly accurate weights. Also, just to reiterate, stay well away form the striking face of the hammer when you are drilling.
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Old 02-04-2008, 12:07 PM   #27 (permalink)
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The hammer is hardened steel. Previous attempts by people have involved heating the hammer with a torch to un-temper it (can't think of the correct word at the moment) drilling the holes, then heating and quenching the hammer to re-harden it..... and that is assuming you know what you are doing.

Otherwise you are going to eat through drill bits.

E
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Old 02-04-2008, 12:15 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Unless you have some nice carbide ones... but remember, the harder you drill it, the more it heats, and the more it work hardens.


MRO Today - Tips for making accurate holes in metal
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Old 02-04-2008, 12:15 PM   #29 (permalink)
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the process you are referring to is Annealing, whereby you heat it to dull red then let it cool on it's own, resetting the crystaline structure.

what you need is just a Ti coated or High Speed Steel (HSS) dill bit and some cutting fluid, pretty much any type of oil will do, transmission fluid works well, as does WD40. No annealing is needed, just a drill press, cutting fluid and patience.
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Old 02-04-2008, 12:40 PM   #30 (permalink)
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And keeping the piece cool as you are drilling. Like Azzy stated, the last thing you want to do is work harden the material ahead of the drill bit.

If you drill slow and use lots of water/cutting oil you might prevent this.

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