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Old 01-17-2013, 07:19 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Yes wrong to do to an ironman, but beautiful non the less. Pm'ing
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Old 01-19-2013, 04:25 PM   #12 (permalink)
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dear god, why oh why =(
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Old 01-19-2013, 06:49 PM   #13 (permalink)
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NEVER BUY AN EVIL VALVE. Worst "upgrade" on the market. Most leak out of the box. Stock valve is fine. Get a Titanium hammer, soft face / or jam bolt (good luck finding one), and if you want a external LPR (not needed). Other then that there is not much you can do internally... externally an SS screw kit is nice, they wont rust like the stock black grub screws will.... also I want to see pics after anno, and who did you send it to? I can't find anyone who will take my money to color my guns...
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Old 01-19-2013, 06:55 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grizle View Post
NEVER BUY AN EVIL VALVE. Worst "upgrade" on the market. Most leak out of the box. Stock valve is fine. Get a Titanium hammer, soft face / or jam bolt (good luck finding one), and if you want a external LPR (not needed). Other then that there is not much you can do internally... externally an SS screw kit is nice, they wont rust like the stock black grub screws will.... also I want to see pics after anno, and who did you send it to? I can't find anyone who will take my money to color my guns...
I sent mine out to TFrevold on custom cockers. He is in Ohio, and I believe you can contact him here also. He has stuff posted in the airsmith forum. Hoping it turns out very nice.

Also for the peeps that hate that ultralite mod, I also sent out the regular angel parts for match anno, so it will be able to be set up three different ways.

I found a stainless hammer on eBay but I think imma leave the ram alone and just upgrade bolt and do an external lpr and see how I like it.
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:58 AM   #15 (permalink)
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If you have the balls to drill an Ironmen, then you may consider the following haha.

First off, clean your entire gun. Bolt, lpr, hpr, valve, ram (inside and out), etc. Establishing a baseline is very important if you are trying to squeeze out as much performance from a decade-old gun.

Get yourself a new bolt. The best bolt I have come by is the DEZign bolt, but they have a long lead time and they are very expensive. Cobra, Bonebrake, Soft face, and AKA bolts are all very good choices. I know a guy who has bonebrakes if your are interested. I might have an extra cobra I could sell you since you're a cool guy on here. Since your gun already has eyes, I would not put a Jam Bolt in it. The spring and hammer link bounce around all over the place and usually cause somewhat eratic velocity deviations in comparison to standard bolts. The Jam Bolts are nice for a wall hangers, but I don't recommend them for guns with eyes. IF anything, turn your gun's eyes off and get the fastest hopper out there. Chopping once or twice a day would probably be worth the bps increase.

Have a new valve stem made by a machinist or use a d-lite valve stem. You want something lighter or higher flowing than the stock one. You might even be able to pick up an aka valve/stem off of them.

Dig the valve spring out of your angel and go find a bunch of different springs of the same size, but different tension. I've heard the spring out of a straight shot squeegee works good... but it will vary from gun to gun. I've found that it is just something you have to mess with. Run 500psi out of your minireg. Run 70-85 through your lpr until you get can achieve 295 fps. Then install a lighter valve spring and see if there is enough pressure behind your valve to keep the stem pushed up against it. You want the valve right on the verge of opening up.

Have a machinist take excess material off of your hammer. The weight can be reduced by over 65%. If you go too light however (nylon hammer), you run the risk of not having enough force to keep the valve "punched open" long enough for a suitable velocity. So yeah, a stainless or brass hammer cut down to about 15g is good. It will significantly reduce kick and your friends will say "this doesn't shoot like the angels I had in the past."

If you want to get crazy, have a machinist make you an aluminum hammer rod to also reduce weight. Same outcome, reduces kick.

Another thing you might want to consider is porting your ram. On the LCD I believe there are three tiny holes for intake and exhaust gas. I had a machinist mill in extra ports and widen the current ones. This allows the ram to effortlessly reciprocate and the gun will shoot like butter.

You will really need to mess with pressure settings to get everything to work properly and shoot a suitable velocity, but it is worth it.

Skip the LPR for now, I don't know if I could bear to watch an Ironmen's body get botched by a drill bit slipping and opening the LPR tube into the battery tube. Once that happens, it's game over. Seriously.

Clean your minireg once a month. I still have mixed feelings about that reg, but it seems to flow nicely with the aesthetics of the gun.

Last edited by RedHairedTrev; 01-23-2013 at 11:06 AM.
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Old 01-23-2013, 11:36 AM   #16 (permalink)
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^^^

Thanks for the recommendations! I actually had a DEZ bolt made for my first LED and loved it. Is he still around and do you have his contact if so? If not that I think imma go with a A4 bolt as I have heard great things about them and might be a little easier to find.
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