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Old 04-26-2013, 12:35 AM   #1281 (permalink)
smells good!
 
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Originally Posted by Donut SD View Post
But, but, it's MY bimmer bummer.

Anyway I'm sure it's a module or such in the door. As far as I recall the earlier models like mine had everything for that door, contained in that door. Meaning a module / actuator (if that's the case for the window and lock) for each door.

It'll pan out. DIY is fun and frustrating all at the same time. And if I can fix it I will. Mechanic Technician is the last resort.
Here's some things to test:

Rear doors lock w/remote?
Rear doors lock w/master switch on LF door?
Rear doors lock w/switch on each respective door?
(same questions for windows - except 'w/remote')


Odd that it would be both rear doors and both rear windows...

I'd imagine that in each door you'd find:
1) control module
2) lock actuator
3) window motor and track/frame

If the control module - or any of those components - are the same in the RF door, you could swap them for those in one of the rear doors and see what happens... the old 'known-good-part' approach

It's also possible that the body control (or 'general,' 'convenience,' etc) module could be bad...

Everything needs a control module these days... sunroof module, seat module, headlight control module, spare tire module... convenience is nice, but it can get pricey and complex.

I once worked on an A4 that - when you hit the unlock button on the remote - the trunk would open... discovered that a control module had certain sub-functions coded for a country other than the US... OEM scanners/diag tools are sure nice to have!

I'm fine with having power locks - it's really nothing more than a solenoid;
I'm fine with power windows - as stated above, motor and track;
Power seats... well, seats can get expensive enough w/o adding electrical components to them.


have fun!
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:15 AM   #1282 (permalink)
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My advice is to keep reseating fuses till **** works - cuz I have seen that work on a bunch of e30's

that gen 7 series is a good looking car, but german engineering is scary. Hey, at least it ain't an old Brit car with Lucas prince of darkness electricals
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:34 AM   #1283 (permalink)
Sorry, that's classified.
 
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Hardy har stimpy. I see what you're doing. Above all the issues with my vehicle I've managed to keep it alive. I still love the way it drives. It's a part of me now. I haven't done major things on my vehicle without the aide of a mechanic/technician or what have you. I have however hand picked every part that went into it....except for the valley pan.

Back to your advice though, when I get some more time I really wanna pull off the panels and find out what's going on in there. LF and RF doors lock, windows work, all that jazz.

Specifically, anything related to those RR/LR doors won't work. That includes the window switches on the LF master and doors themselves, the car's central locking also doesn't work on those doors. Only the front two.

All other functions are fine.

And yes bored....it's all fine and dandy. But only when every part of the car can communicate with itself properly, it's great stuff. Oh a short? Sorry, I'm just not gonna work for you. In fact half of me won't because of a tiny little-bitty electrical pwobwem.

Oh yeah, stimpy. I've tested all those things. I haven't however, locked the rear doors manually.
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Old 04-26-2013, 02:03 AM   #1284 (permalink)
smells good!
 
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Back to your advice though, when I get some more time I really wanna pull off the panels and find out what's going on in there. LF and RF doors lock, windows work, all that jazz.

Specifically, anything related to those RR/LR doors won't work. That includes the window switches on the LF master and doors themselves, the car's central locking also doesn't work on those doors. Only the front two.

All other functions are fine.

body control module... could possible be the master lock/window switch in the LF door - depending on how things are wired

find the appropriate wiring diagram - see where all of these things connect/hook-up

also, if you haven't already, post the symptoms - in as much detail as possible - on some of the BMW forums... i'm sure someone out there has run into, and fixed, this exact problem.

and if you are going to start popping off door panels, first try to locate all the fasteners - and the type of fastener - so that you don't break any more than necessary.
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what stimpy said
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:54 AM   #1285 (permalink)
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and having a set of trim removal tools can make a BIG difference in the outcome when you start tearing into doors / consoles / interior bits. They are fairly cheap on amazon, fwiw. I have a set I've put to good use on my Wife's old scion, her current outback, and on my focus. Plus know this, a lot of interior bits are fastened and snapped together in a fashion that makes them easy to assemble but not easy to disassemble - think stuff that was designed so that it could be made out of the most affordable materials that would still hold up to be put together by the lowest common denominator union peep and then used by joe and jane public reliably for 3 to 5yrs
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:05 AM   #1286 (permalink)
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Just saw this post/thread ... I gather this is for a German car... if so I have lots of experience with power door locks and power windows in VW vanagons (1986-91) and the later Eurovan (1991-2001). After you check fuses (which it rarely is with VW) look at the control modules in the doors. For door locks its ALWAYS those. Disconnect till you find the offender. Most likely will have to order a new one as taking them apart for maintenance is rarely a fix.
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:22 AM   #1287 (permalink)
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Sorry to change the subject. Just wanted to share what came in the mail today... now to figure out how to take it apart.

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Carry on with the car talk...
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:50 AM   #1288 (permalink)
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nice one Frank =)
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:53 AM   #1289 (permalink)
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Wow that sure is slick.
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Old 04-27-2013, 04:09 AM   #1290 (permalink)
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Thanks! Just ordered a valve tool and seal kit. Unfortunately, the seller didn't have the vertical feed that it was built with. And that's actually a detent holding the feed on the barrel.
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