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Old 02-06-2007, 04:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Valve still leaking...

Hey, I've got Wycke's old autococker and I've been having problems with it. I finally got it timed to shoot and recock reliably, but the issue I AM having is that I put a pristine cup seal and valve O-Ring and it still leaks down the barrel like crazy. Is there some special way to reinstall the valve you're supposed to follow so it is seated properly that I didn't get right?
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Old 02-06-2007, 10:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Do you have the proper valve spring length a certain amount of preload is needed in the system. Also did you use a cup seal made for HPA with CO2 they will leak if tis is done.
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Old 02-06-2007, 10:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I only use HPA on the cockers (For some reason with my old one I could never lay off the trigger enough to keep my hand from freezing to the reg. Too much fun playing semi I guess.)

I'm pretty sure it's a nelson sprung cocker, it's one of those generic doc nickel bodies though. I'm using the same spring that was in there when I got it, it got fine velocity before it started leaking like a sieve.
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Old 02-06-2007, 11:25 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Have you tried increasing the input pressure?
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Old 02-08-2007, 01:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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When did it start leaking? If you changed anything (lowered the reg pressure, swapped any parts, etc), undo that change to see if the leak goes away.

If you shake the gun forward to back (without air, hopper, etc. attached), do you hear any kind of rattle? Take out the hammer plug, spring & the hammer itself and use a pair of really long-nose pliers to see if the valve pin is loose at all.

As someone else mentioned, try raising the input pressure and make sure it's cocked before airing it up.

Unfortunately, I don't have any spare valves or cup seals or I'd send you one to try it. Also, I've seen cup seals that looked perfectly fine leak like crazy. Carefully inspect the seal with a magnifying glass - even the tiniest nick can cause a big leak. Also check the cup seal seat on the valve body. If there are any dings or scratches, run some very fine emery or polishing cloth over it (hold the cloth on a flat surface, place the valve body, cup seal side down, on the cloth and twist it a few times while applying light pressure - don't go nuts, just twist it back & forth 5 or 6 times then check the surface.)
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Old 02-08-2007, 01:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murph View Post
I'm pretty sure it's a nelson sprung cocker, it's one of those generic doc nickel bodies though. I'm using the same spring that was in there when I got it, it got fine velocity before it started leaking like a sieve.
The valvespring, IIRC is a stock WGP one. The hammer kit (hammer, spring & rear plug) are AKA. I believe the hammer spring isn't exactly the same length as a Nelson spring, nor a stock WGP spring for that matter, but unless the hammer is pre-loading the valve pin (and you're airing it up without the hammer cocked), that shouldn't make a difference....

Worst-case scenario, ship it back to me and I'll fix the leak (and do my best not to disturb the timing or anything else in the process).
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Old 02-08-2007, 02:21 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I know better than to gas it up uncocked. I'm leaning towards the cup seal being no good yet again. I have the worst freakin luck with these parts.
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Last edited by Murph; 02-08-2007 at 03:44 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 02-08-2007, 03:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I know better than to gas it up cocked.
You mean uncocked, right? With most auto-cocking guns (Autocockers, Blazers, Typhoons, etc), if you hold the trigger back while airing up, and then release the trigger after the air's attached, the gun will remain cocked. Some require that you manually cock the hammer by pulling the backblock, P-block, or the bolt itself until the hammer cocks before pressurizing the gun.

cocked = hammer is back and mainspring is compressed
uncocked = hammer is forward and mainspring is uncompressed
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Old 02-08-2007, 03:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yeah lol that's what I mean.
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Old 02-08-2007, 05:31 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Okay, found the problem. The valve body in there is too short, the o ring isn't reaching the face it needs to seal on (if there is one.) The hole doesn't even line up with the hole for the retaining screw (in fact it was kinda butchered from someone way overtorquing it in there.)

I threw the valve body from my type X cocker in there and it works fine, except the stabilizer doesn't get low enough pressure to keep velocity under control with that one.

*Edit* Even with the type X cocker valve body there's still a tiny tiny hiss. I'm leaning towards it being the body, I believe Doc said that his lgeneric automated cocking guns' were originally made by someone else who botched the job and he modded them to run. The position the valve screws into seems to be a couple thousandths of an inch off, and it's enough for the valve O-Ring to not seal tight enough to keep airtight. I'll try using a washer as a spacer, hopefully that'll work.
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Love how the thread got de-railed to incestuous relations and soldering brass tubes together. Classic MCB at it's finest.
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Last edited by Murph; 02-08-2007 at 06:25 PM.
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