Paintball

[Kermit]

My autococker shot really well when I got it but I started having some issues with it.

I was having this issue with the back block getting stuck back. It would shoot a few shots fine and then get the back block stuck in the open position. I was shooting my .678 eigenbarrel on it for a while until the field paint started getting larger. What I THINK was happening was that the paint wasn't going into the barrel easily and the pneumatics weren't strong enough to load the ball. Does this sound possible? I switched to an overbore and the problem hasn't occurred again.

Next is the timing. I have an issue where it will re-cock most of the time, but it will often not. I know that I'm not short stroking the gun. I think that the issue is with my timing rod length. Is this correct?

Thanks in advance, I just don't want to mess it up more

[sdawg]

Originally Posted by bigballa

What I THINK was happening was that the paint wasn't going into the barrel easily and the pneumatics weren't strong enough to load the ball. Does this sound possible? I switched to an overbore and the problem hasn't occurred again.

Yep, that is not only possible, it can happen. Turn up your LPR pressure or use a bigger bore size.

Originally Posted by bigballa

Next is the timing. I have an issue where it will re-cock most of the time, but it will often not. I know that I'm not short stroking the gun. I think that the issue is with my timing rod length. Is this correct?

The hammer lug may not be catching the sear. Either the lug needs to be lengthened, or something is keeping the sear from resetting (e.g., dirt, rust, paint shell that somehow got in the frame). I would try the lug first.

[Kermit]

What size allen key do I use for the lug adjustment?

[brycelarson]

1/8"

yes, it's possible to have the LPR too low to shove the paint into the barrel. I was playing with an old RF cocker at a 95 degree 90% humidity scenario - I was having the same problem, I would have to pound the balls into the barrel by cycling the gun a bunch of times. hilarious.

there are a couple of things it could be.

1. lug depth
2. cocking rod length (not timing rod).

If the lug is not deep enough it won't catch. If the cocking rod isn't moving the hammer back far enough then you need to shorten it.

this is my favorite timing guide - follow it and you'll be fine:

AutoCocker Timing

[Kermit]

Thanks Bryce. This gun was my primary shooter for a while, but I have been using a sniper more than not lately so I've been putting off getting her back into shape.

I just noticed how huge the paint was. The field paint used to be about a .680, now it is consistently sticking in my .689 kaner back. No wonder I was having issues with that.

[russc]

I also suggest turning the LPR up. That should be the first thing to try before touching the timing.

[Kermit]

yes, I've messed with the LPR enough to know that it isn't that. I am going to adjust the cocking rod and see what happens.

[russc]

Just checked one of your videos and it looks like you're using QEVs? Is that right?

I've always found them to negatively impact the performance of mech cockers. They make the gun feel less smooth, and they often led to timing issues where the ram would retract before the sear could move up to catch the hammer. I suggest removing at least the front QEV if you have it on there. That's the one that vents on the return stroke of the ram.

PS, this only applies to the second issue, where you have intermittent hammer recocking. It shouldn't affect the ram returning failing to chamber a ball. The two issues are very separate. You should turn the LPR up or get a bigger barrel for the chambering issue.

[Kermit]

Yeah there is a QEV on there, never even thought about it to be honest...I'll pull that off!

[brycelarson]

yeah, no reason for QEVs on a mech.