Paintball

[Myrkul]

Ok, hopefully someone on here can help me with this. I'm not new to autocockers and have owned one for several years now. I understand how sweet spotting the reg and such work, but I'm running in to a problem with my cocker. No matter what the output pressure, (I've tried from 230 PSI up to 800 PSI) it simply will not fire over 260 FPS unless I have the heaviest mainspring in and the IVG turned all the way in. I'm currently using the green madman valve spring, and the red mad man main spring. For obvious reasons having a heavy main spring is normally not a super good idea, does anyone have any tips for how to get this gun to shoot at a usable velocity without having a ridiculously stiff main spring? As before said I tried all sorts of different pressures and sweet spotting. And yes I have a good paint to bore match.

[sdawg]

Perhaps the sweetspot is lower than 230psi?

Perhaps there are some damaged/old o-rings that need to be replaced, such as on the bolt?

[russc]

Can you post a photo of your cocker? Is it a minicocker? Also, try using the sear spring from the maddmann kit as the valve spring. You might need to stretch the last ring so it slips over the cupseal.

[minimag03]

What type of valve and reg are you using too? This happened to me one time with my mini'd 2k1 cocker. It was actually fixed by replacing the valve spring from green to blue (balancing the springs out) and then lowering the pressure.

Have you tried a different reg?

[russc]

This is why minicockers suck.

[Myrkul]

Originally Posted by sdawg

Perhaps the sweetspot is lower than 230psi?

Perhaps there are some damaged/old o-rings that need to be replaced, such as on the bolt?

It's an oldie, from what I've read they normally sit on the higher end of the pressure range, so I don't think it would like a pressure that low, I could be wrong though.

Bolt "o" rings are good.

Originally Posted by russc

Can you post a photo of your cocker? Is it a minicocker? Also, try using the sear spring from the maddmann kit as the valve spring. You might need to stretch the last ring so it slips over the cupseal.

Sorry I don't have any pics now, Its an old one though, the serial number is 18,*** or so I don't quite remember, I believe its a 96. I'll try using a the sear spring.

Originally Posted by minimag03

What type of valve and reg are you using too? This happened to me one time with my mini'd 2k1 cocker. It was actually fixed by replacing the valve spring from green to blue (balancing the springs out) and then lowering the pressure.

Have you tried a different reg?

Stock valve, Palmer's Stabilizer for reg. Originally It had an Air America Prophecy reg on it, but that was even worse, Wouldn't shoot over 250 no matter what then. When I switch to the stabilizer the gun became "usable" with the heavy spring combo as described above, but after about four months of that it killed my ram. I figured while I have it in pieces I might as well fix this problem too. I'll look into screwing with the valve springs.

Originally Posted by russc

This is why minicockers suck.

Definitely not a mini.

[p-bpat]

Is your hammer lightened? Perhaps install a hammer slug if its one of the light ones.
Pat.

[Myrkul]

Originally Posted by p-bpat

Is your hammer lightened? Perhaps install a hammer slug if its one of the light ones.
Pat.

It looks like the stock hammer.

I was able to pick up a very weak spring from the hardware store and trim it to fit. It seems to be working ok, but I don't have access to a chronograph, and won't for some time because my local field is closed. but it seems to work. Thanks guys.

[bss]

From what I noticed with WGP autococker bodies, the 1st generation (1999 and older) and the 2nd generation (2000 and newer) have different size air passageway and air chamber. The 1st generation was design for CO2, so they operate better with higher pressure (450 PSI to 800 PSI). The 2nd generation was design for more air flow to support HPA setup (400 PSI to 450 PSI). I found that the Madman spring kit works best for the 1st generation autococker. The spring lengths in the 2nd generation is a little different. If you have a 2nd generation autococker, expect the IVG to be screwed in a little more than normal.

For starts, I would set the regulator to 450 PSI and play around with the different springs (valve spring and hammer spring) until you find a match that will get you close to your desired FPS (280 FPS to 300 FPS, depending on your local field rules). Once you get there, you can start modifying the autococker to your own preference (lower pressure, faster cycle time, sweet spot spring/reg, lighten shear spring, etc).

[paintballedbackin88]

Originally Posted by bss

From what I noticed with WGP autococker bodies, the 1st generation (1999 and older) and the 2nd generation (2000 and newer) have different size air passageway and air chamber. The 1st generation was design for CO2, so they operate better with higher pressure (450 PSI to 800 PSI). The 2nd generation was design for more air flow to support HPA setup (400 PSI to 450 PSI). I found that the Madman spring kit works best for the 1st generation autococker. The spring lengths in the 2nd generation is a little different. If you have a 2nd generation autococker, expect the IVG to be screwed in a little more than normal.

For starts, I would set the regulator to 450 PSI and play around with the different springs (valve spring and hammer spring) until you find a match that will get you close to your desired FPS (280 FPS to 300 FPS, depending on your local field rules). Once you get there, you can start modifying the autococker to your own preference (lower pressure, faster cycle time, sweet spot spring/reg, lighten shear spring, etc).

I know this is an older post, but I just wanted to add that Belsales suggested setting the inline reg/HPR to 450 psi in the Evolution owners manual that came with my 1999 Evolution autococker, so I agree that 450 psi is a good start for a 99 autcocker.