Re-springing autococker Q

mullet · 08-17-2007, 03:59 PM

So I FINNALY found an autococker valve tool (there hard to find here) and I am going to respring my main and valve springs with the madman spring kit I have. Now I know it is going to take a couple of tries at matching the springs to get what I want (mainly looking for effeciancy) but I am wondering were a good place to start would be. So does anyone that knows the madman spring kits enough know of a good colour combination to start from? I am using stock WGP inards if that makes a diffreance.

Thanks in advance.

Wycke · 08-17-2007, 04:36 PM

What year 'Cocker? If it's pre-2000, start with medium or medium-heavy springs for both the valve and hammer. If it's 2000+, start with medium or medium-light for both. These are just guidelines, and each particular gun is going to be different based on manufacturing tolerances, etc.

russc · 08-17-2007, 04:37 PM

Are you finally going to start work on those Panther bodies?

mullet · 08-17-2007, 06:20 PM

Yea I geuss that might make a differance, it's 2k+. And Russc, yes I am finally getting to work on those panther bodies I hope to have at least one working by next pump day. Which brings me another question, I am going to be running these panther cockers (pre 97') on 12 grams, I am pretty sure I wont need to because they were made to run unreg'd co2 but do you think I will have to respring from the stock ones? And don't the pre 97's use the nelson springs?

Phantom Power · 08-17-2007, 06:33 PM

The pre-97 Autocockers used Sheridan style springs. They also have a high pressure valve in them, so they should work fine off unregged CO2. You probably won't get a fantastic shot count, but it will work.

Railgun · 08-17-2007, 06:46 PM

When I sprung up my Sniper II for direct CO2 I had to switch to a hard valve spring. That's what everyone suggested to me at the time as well.

If you could find an older small passage valve body and cupseal you'll likely get a little more efficiency and it'll be easier to tune since the springs will have more of the total control over the timing.

minimag03 · 08-21-2007, 08:49 PM

If you are using a reg you can use the medium (blue) spring in your valve and the light (green) spring on your hammer. This set up give you great advantages besides efficiency such as
1) lightest trigger pull allowed
2) lower LPR pressure (less recoil)
3) easy to find sweetspot that is around the average operating pressure

mullet · 08-28-2007, 07:30 PM

Ok, I will give that one a go first, thanks for the answers

08-17-2007, 03:59 PM	#1 (permalink)
mullet Active Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 202	Re-springing autococker Q So I FINNALY found an autococker valve tool (there hard to find here) and I am going to respring my main and valve springs with the madman spring kit I have. Now I know it is going to take a couple of tries at matching the springs to get what I want (mainly looking for effeciancy) but I am wondering were a good place to start would be. So does anyone that knows the madman spring kits enough know of a good colour combination to start from? I am using stock WGP inards if that makes a diffreance. Thanks in advance.

08-17-2007, 04:36 PM	#2 (permalink)
Wycke Supernatural Anaesthetist Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: The Plaines of Celestia Posts: 1,394	What year 'Cocker? If it's pre-2000, start with medium or medium-heavy springs for both the valve and hammer. If it's 2000+, start with medium or medium-light for both. These are just guidelines, and each particular gun is going to be different based on manufacturing tolerances, etc. __________________ Porch Monkey 4 Life! s'ok...I'm takin' it back... My Feedback Thread

08-17-2007, 04:37 PM	#3 (permalink)
russc MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 4,226	Are you finally going to start work on those Panther bodies? __________________ YouTube Channel / Raincouver! / Gallery / Feedback / Blackleaf Outfitters -Russ

08-17-2007, 06:33 PM	#5 (permalink)
Phantom Power Pump Gun Dealer Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Pender Island, BC Posts: 1,905	The pre-97 Autocockers used Sheridan style springs. They also have a high pressure valve in them, so they should work fine off unregged CO2. You probably won't get a fantastic shot count, but it will work. __________________

08-17-2007, 06:46 PM	#6 (permalink)
Railgun MCB Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 2,302	When I sprung up my Sniper II for direct CO2 I had to switch to a hard valve spring. That's what everyone suggested to me at the time as well. If you could find an older small passage valve body and cupseal you'll likely get a little more efficiency and it'll be easier to tune since the springs will have more of the total control over the timing. __________________ Witty saying to be plagarized soon.....

08-17-2007, 06:20 PM	#4 (permalink)
mullet Active Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 202	Yea I geuss that might make a differance, it's 2k+. And Russc, yes I am finally getting to work on those panther bodies I hope to have at least one working by next pump day. Which brings me another question, I am going to be running these panther cockers (pre 97') on 12 grams, I am pretty sure I wont need to because they were made to run unreg'd co2 but do you think I will have to respring from the stock ones? And don't the pre 97's use the nelson springs?

08-21-2007, 08:49 PM	#7 (permalink)
minimag03 MCB Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Bluefield, WV Posts: 613	If you are using a reg you can use the medium (blue) spring in your valve and the light (green) spring on your hammer. This set up give you great advantages besides efficiency such as 1) lightest trigger pull allowed 2) lower LPR pressure (less recoil) 3) easy to find sweetspot that is around the average operating pressure __________________ Smackz.com Feeback Gallery

08-28-2007, 07:30 PM	#8 (permalink)
mullet Active Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 202	Ok, I will give that one a go first, thanks for the answers

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