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|09-14-2012, 03:55 AM||#11 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2006
How does it fire if you rapidly release the trigger? In that video you were going fairly slow, when I have my cockers timed for quick shooting they don't like to be played with like that. Snap in, Snap out. You can partially(totally?) cover the blowoff hole on the front QEV to see if anything changes but I doubt it. I will give this a try tomorrow, I am going through all my markers to get them ready for sale and I have a spare cocker and QEV here somewhere. I never had any issues with them before though....
Everyone says "Well maybe i'll make a difference",
Thinking they've got plenty of time
But you're squeezed a little tighter everyday
Finished before you can commit a crime
|10-07-2012, 07:01 PM||#12 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jul 2011
It's your lug. Your firing point is behind your recocking point, and although it will fire without air, it'll still recock before it fires with air. You don't need anything new.
Just raise your lug until it no longer catches the sear when you cock it without air, then lower it until it just barely catches and add a turn.
It should fire fairly close to the very front of the trigger pull, but not so close that the safety stops working. Not sure if those old CCM frames have safeties, so that may be moot.
Ex of a good trigger pull:
If your recocking point gets too close to the firing point, you'll get blowback, if it overlaps it, you'll have what your marker is doing. However, there is a perfect middle point where it's not too far back as to cause undue short stroking, but close enough that the ball leaving the barrel will create a vacuum for the paint in the feedneck. That's a good place to be.
F - Fire point
R - Recocking point.
Last edited by Dk-79; 10-07-2012 at 07:05 PM.
|10-28-2012, 01:51 AM||#14 (permalink)|
Old, but not slow.
Join Date: Oct 2011
I built my mech cocker myself and played around with QEVs. Although I did eventually get it shooting nicely (much like your slider), I ran into the same problem you're having.
I'm pretty sure its that your lug isn't catching on the sear. The reason it cocks and fires when not gassed up is that when you cycle it by hand, you're doing it much more slowly than when the ram does it. The sear simply isn't coming back up fast enough to catch the hammer as it blows past. The QEVs certainly aren't helping.
I'd remove the QEV on the front of the ram. If that doesn't fix it, lower the lug and re-time it. If that still doesn't fix it, use a stiffer sear spring. Lastly, flat-topped lugs work better than round ones for mechs simply because they seem to catch better than rounded ones.
|03-13-2013, 04:10 PM||#15 (permalink)|
Buying Bankruptcy Kits
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: SoCal, USA
And yeah, always gotta have rental mode on standby
|03-13-2013, 04:43 PM||#16 (permalink)|
WVU paintball #19
To test if your hammer release and actuation point are too close together, shoot a few shots over the chrono. Then turn off the LPR and shoot a few shot while manually cocking the gun. If the velocity is 15fps+ more when manually recocking then more time is required in between the two point. I've found this helps a lot with efficiency, constancy, and cutting down on blowback as well.
|03-13-2013, 05:03 PM||#18 (permalink)|
I finally decided to start a thread for my Feedback: http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/f...-feedback.html
Rocking it for the Fringe Division!
|03-17-2013, 09:41 PM||#20 (permalink)|
It seems like the distance between the firing and recocking is a bit close. I would try to add a bit of space between them.
It also seems as if your sear spring is too soft allowing the hammer to slip past the sear. That could explain why when you pull slow the hammer slips forward.
These are just my observations from watching your videos. Without having the gun in front of me it's just a guess. With that said, you have a really nice gun. I hope you get your issues figured out.
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