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Old 11-09-2012, 05:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
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New Karnivor owner

So, finally bought myself a karnivor and should get it within the next few days. I've owned, own, and worked on several mech cockers, but this will be my first electro autococker. Any tips or advice for a new owner, and what are some good settings for an e1 board?

Last edited by Led-Zeppelin; 11-15-2012 at 11:59 PM.
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Stick to the factory settings. Once you start fiddling with the settings it goes to hell. Factory fast is a Max rof of 15 bps plenty of speed for anyone now days. Unless you go by the PSP settings that I found on pbn or maybe here I can't remember, it was so you can slow it down for the recent PSP rules.
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:16 PM   #3 (permalink)
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dump the e1 board for an e2. version .24 is ok unless you want ramping then 1.10.
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Old 11-11-2012, 09:19 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Fps is adjusted by hpr pressure, not by the ivg like on mech cockers. If you must adjust the ivg for any reason, make sure to remove the snatch grip screw first. Also make sure you reinstall the snatch grip screw between the flanges of the ivg, or you will bend a flange and pinch the hammer spring. That in turn will affect velocity and consistency. I found this out the hard way and had to get a replacement ivg.
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:56 PM   #5 (permalink)
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No advise to offer just a welcome to the club, I love my karnivor.
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Last edited by requiem2; 11-12-2012 at 11:04 PM.
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:14 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by requiem2 View Post
No advise to offer just a welcome to the club, I love my karnivor.
Thanks, been wanting a karni for years. Does anyone have a link for the e1 manual? And what are some good settings for the board?
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:17 AM   #7 (permalink)
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PE manuals:

Planet Eclipse - Product Support


E1 vs. E2
Quote:
What are the ups/downs of the E1 Vs. E2?

-Pardini



E-1 frames, obviously the first to come out, the original ones had the huge bulky triggers on them, they were heavy and when the magnet was lightened enough, would bounce like crazy. if you get an old e-1 with the old trigger they can be upgraded to the "samurai" triggers now for about $20. as far as performace goes, the old E1's have a LED style display, so the readout on the back is made up of small LED lights...these use up more battery life than the newer E2 frame LCD screen. also to contribute to the drain of batteries, the old E-1 boards had a larger constant draw of power, so if you leave the battery in the gun, after a couple weeks of just sitting there turned off the battery will be dead. the E2s use less battery, and can last up to 4 weeks just sitting,

the E-1 frames can be upgraded with new boards, obviously the ZeroB which has the newer style LCD screen and all the tourney ramping modes...the newest software has PSP ramp, millenium ramp, training mode, and straight semi...these are the same as on the E2 stock frames...also, predator was working on an e-blade board last i heard, but i dont know if it will ever get off the ground. there are other companies that have made boards too, i remember one called the "speedy" board, but i cant remember who made it...

as far as looks go, the E1's come with the old style e-blade grips that are a pain in the *** to get clean once they have dirt in them, and the solenoid covers are open on the bottom to allow for easier access. the frame itself has thicker aluminum walls which make it a bit heavier than the E2 as well. the E2's come with nicer, smaller profile grips which make the frame seem thinner, the grip itself is milled down more to take off as much weight as possible, and the solenoid covers are completely enclosed with a new proprietary barb system. the old barb types that the E1's used had a nasty habbit of warping when tightened down (the 90 fittings only) and constricted air flow, the new system uses all straight fittings.

the eye logic on the E2 frames is nicer as well i think, its displayed on the LCD in a line graph and is easier to understand than the number system on the E1's and you can adjust your sensativity from 10% to 90% where 90% is the most responsive, but will use more battery life. the bounce filters are also a lot better and easier to use on the E2's to make your gun as tourney legal as possible.


really when it comes down to it, you can make an E1 frame do all the things an E2 frame will do by adding the new ZeroB board...but you just dont have all the niceties of the E2 like the enclosed solenoid, better trigger magnet placement and adjustability, nicer trigger, lighter frame, better grips, and sleeker look...
FirePro84's Webpage

Also:
http://customcockers.com/forum/showt...nd-differences!
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Last edited by Jaccen; 11-13-2012 at 10:34 AM.
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:58 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I've never been happy with the E1 frames, there's just not enough room for my fingers.
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