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Old 12-14-2012, 08:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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E-cockers, what do I need to know.

I think I want to build an e-cocker this winter. But I don't know much about them. What do I need to know, a few questions below. If I missed anything let me know. I probably won't be ripping on it crazy so ROF isn't a major issue and I will not be using eyes.

I plan on using a pre2k body, it that ok?
Do I need QEVs on the ram?
Will a stock brass WGP ram work, with or without QEVs?
I was planning on probably going with a Rock reg
What is the difference between E1 and E2?
Would I be able to use a stock Autococker shroud? I like how they look.
Do they require any sort of timing or is it done electronically.
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Old 12-14-2012, 09:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLachance75 View Post
I think I want to build an e-cocker this winter. But I don't know much about them. What do I need to know, a few questions below. If I missed anything let me know. I probably won't be ripping on it crazy so ROF isn't a major issue and I will not be using eyes.

I plan on using a pre2k body, it that ok? If you can get enough volume up front, ie expansion banjos.
Do I need QEVs on the ram? They vastly increase the performance with the solenoid and will help you get to highs bps.
Will a stock brass WGP ram work, with or without QEVs? Yes, but see previous question.
I was planning on probably going with a Rock reg. Should be just be fine.
What is the difference between E1 and E2? E1 is a red screen similar to old alarm clocks and isnt as easily read as an E2. An E2 also has more settings, tweaks, andfactory setups that are easier to work with. If you are using an E1 frame, you can mount a Zero-B board and get the same results as an e2.
Would I be able to use a stock Autococker shroud? I like how they look. Not sure on this, I have never tried, but I am sure one can be modded to work.
Do they require any sort of timing or is it done electronically.Lots and Lots of timing involved in these. The E2 has some quick and dirty settings such as factory fast, but to do some real tuning, you will have a lot to play with and at times can be frustrating. A well tuned e-cocker with the right parts though can easily keep up with some of the fastest guns.
See answers in quote.
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Old 12-14-2012, 10:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Just a couple additions to dano_____'s reply:

The QEVs require threaded ram barbs, so most of the really old clippard rams are NOT compatible. IMHO, QEVs are one of the best price to performance upgrades available (and you don't need the fancy/overpriced Belsales QEVs). Also, while any ram can be used Belsales magnum rams are truely divine.

E2 / Zero B are also vastly better on battery life. My E1 would drain the battery while in storage, so if you don't remove it between game days, I was contantly facing low charges.

Old school shrouds do not fit over the EBlade cocking solenoid, so most ditched them. A few companies designed neoprene pneumatic covers instead that look like big barrel condoms.

The one other addition I would make is if getting an E1 frame, try to get a Samurai trigger to replace the bulky stock blade trigger. Mine made a world of difference in feel.

Otherwise, I'll just second most of the previous comments:

- High volume, lower pressure of 2K+ bodies is preferable
- I do love me some PPS minirock over any other LPR
- The Eblade pre-programmed settings for slow, med or fast are a simple button click and do me just fine, so you really don't need to get fancy with the timing. But like all things autococker, the Eclipse manual gives VERY detailed instructions on the huge multitude of settings adjustments for the tweaker.

And just because I can... here's an old picture of

Sadly, she has been sitting on the workbench for the last five years gathering dust.

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Old 12-14-2012, 10:25 PM   #4 (permalink)
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You'll be happier with an AKA Excaliber! They are everything an Ebladed autococker wishes is could be.

In all seriousness, both of the guys above give some good advice. Just remember that an E-cocker is a pump that was converted to a mechanical semi that was then converted to a mech/pneumatic hybrid electro. They can be a lot of fun to shoot, but they have their quirks and shortcomings.
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Old 12-14-2012, 10:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You'll be happier with an AKA Excaliber! They are everything an Ebladed autococker wishes is could be.
Pfft... cycling back blocks FTW!
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Old 12-14-2012, 10:31 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Pfft... cycling back blocks FTW!
Hell yeah, plus I got a freshly laser engraved body that I need to do something with. I have plenty of pumps and want something different.
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If it needed a different bolt, CCM would have made a different bolt.
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Word.
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:41 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I got all my parts and slapped them together.








Unfortunately the body has a few messed up threads and is unusable. Fortunately I have another one that is the exact same, lasering and all. The freont reg is hollow and acting as a gas through. When I get the new body back from my friend I will put it all together and test it out.

The shroud required a little trimming on the bottom to fit around the solenoid but it isn't noticable because the neoprene covers it.
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If it needed a different bolt, CCM would have made a different bolt.
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:55 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Wow this turned out great! Awesome job!

One of the guys on CC just completed his E-right feed.


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Old 01-23-2013, 09:13 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Makes me want to do one...

For reasons.
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