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|12-14-2012, 09:28 PM||#1 (permalink)|
E-cockers, what do I need to know.
I think I want to build an e-cocker this winter. But I don't know much about them. What do I need to know, a few questions below. If I missed anything let me know. I probably won't be ripping on it crazy so ROF isn't a major issue and I will not be using eyes.
I plan on using a pre2k body, it that ok?
Do I need QEVs on the ram?
Will a stock brass WGP ram work, with or without QEVs?
I was planning on probably going with a Rock reg
What is the difference between E1 and E2?
Would I be able to use a stock Autococker shroud? I like how they look.
Do they require any sort of timing or is it done electronically.
|12-14-2012, 10:11 PM||#2 (permalink)|
|12-14-2012, 11:18 PM||#3 (permalink)|
Join Date: May 2006
Just a couple additions to dano_____'s reply:
The QEVs require threaded ram barbs, so most of the really old clippard rams are NOT compatible. IMHO, QEVs are one of the best price to performance upgrades available (and you don't need the fancy/overpriced Belsales QEVs). Also, while any ram can be used Belsales magnum rams are truely divine.
E2 / Zero B are also vastly better on battery life. My E1 would drain the battery while in storage, so if you don't remove it between game days, I was contantly facing low charges.
Old school shrouds do not fit over the EBlade cocking solenoid, so most ditched them. A few companies designed neoprene pneumatic covers instead that look like big barrel condoms.
The one other addition I would make is if getting an E1 frame, try to get a Samurai trigger to replace the bulky stock blade trigger. Mine made a world of difference in feel.
Otherwise, I'll just second most of the previous comments:
- High volume, lower pressure of 2K+ bodies is preferable
- I do love me some PPS minirock over any other LPR
- The Eblade pre-programmed settings for slow, med or fast are a simple button click and do me just fine, so you really don't need to get fancy with the timing. But like all things autococker, the Eclipse manual gives VERY detailed instructions on the huge multitude of settings adjustments for the tweaker.
And just because I can... here's an old picture of
Sadly, she has been sitting on the workbench for the last five years gathering dust.
|12-14-2012, 11:25 PM||#4 (permalink)|
You'll be happier with an AKA Excaliber! They are everything an Ebladed autococker wishes is could be.
In all seriousness, both of the guys above give some good advice. Just remember that an E-cocker is a pump that was converted to a mechanical semi that was then converted to a mech/pneumatic hybrid electro. They can be a lot of fun to shoot, but they have their quirks and shortcomings.
|12-14-2012, 11:31 PM||#6 (permalink)|
|01-22-2013, 06:41 PM||#7 (permalink)|
I got all my parts and slapped them together.
Unfortunately the body has a few messed up threads and is unusable. Fortunately I have another one that is the exact same, lasering and all. The freont reg is hollow and acting as a gas through. When I get the new body back from my friend I will put it all together and test it out.
The shroud required a little trimming on the bottom to fit around the solenoid but it isn't noticable because the neoprene covers it.
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