mcarterbrown.com

mcarterbrown.com (http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/)
-   WGP (http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/wgp/)
-   -   Repairing a Cocker body? (http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/wgp/226251-repairing-cocker-body.html)

dm6rocker 02-13-2013 10:29 PM

Repairing a Cocker body?
 
Alright, I just ran into an issue which I'm sure people have encountered before. I just got a pretty nice full bodied, undrilled Orracle in a trade, and gutted it for a possible anno job. Unfortunately I noticed the rear frame screw on the body was almost stripped, and I just finished it off :( I've been watching ebay for more bodies in good shape, but everything is either Mini'd or drilled for eyes. Both of which I would like to avoid.

I don't really want to helicoil it, I'd like to go with something a little more durable. Anyone ever try one of those stainless steel treaded inserts that ASP sells for something like this? I'm pretty sure the 8-32 inserts are the same thread as the normal hole, and I think they're short enough avoid interfering with the hammer.

Next question. I'm not well versed when it comes to anodizing. But I am pretty sure that stainless won't take to ano like aluminum does. Is this something I should do before having the body done, or after?

Thanks in advance for any input!

idkfa 02-13-2013 10:33 PM

I was reading over the Tribal Owners Group regarding stripped screw repair earlier today. Those stainless inserts seem to be the preferred method.

tjd10684 02-13-2013 10:33 PM

It will not take anno at all it will most likely dissolve in the tank. if you can get away with it you could just tap it for the next size up (12-24 i think) your only other realistic choice would be a helicoil. un realistically you could weld it up and re drill and tap it.

Rage 01 02-13-2013 10:41 PM

I have not used the inserts you are talking about. I have only used the helicoil which work great. As for the anodizing it will only take to the body, you need to put that insert in after it gets back or they will just take it out. The size of the back screw in the grip frame is 10-32.

dm6rocker 02-13-2013 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tjd10684 (Post 2624386)
It will not take anno at all it will most likely dissolve in the tank. if you can get away with it you could just tap it for the next size up (12-24 i think) your only other realistic choice would be a helicoil. un realistically you could weld it up and re drill and tap it.

I had a feeling it wouldn't take, but I didn't think stainless steel would just dissolve. At that rate I'd rather just get the anno done, and then worry about repairs. It'll be covered by the frame anyway, and I like the peace of mind with stainless.

I was incorrect in my first post though. (EDIT: Rage beat me to it) The correct thread size is 10-32 from what I can see. I would just tap it for the next size, but my set goes from 10-32 up to 1/4-20. A little too big I think. The downside is the insert is .200" or about 5mm, and that's quite a bit too long. I may have to just suck it up and go buy a bigger tap set.

super_stanchy 02-13-2013 11:02 PM

drill it/tap it for 10-32 CCI Thread Insert.
(yes what ASP sells)

insert after Ano.

i can do it for ya.... i have the tap that is used for it too

-stanchy

bss 02-17-2013 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dm6rocker (Post 2624406)
I had a feeling it wouldn't take, but I didn't think stainless steel would just dissolve. At that rate I'd rather just get the anno done, and then worry about repairs. It'll be covered by the frame anyway, and I like the peace of mind with stainless.

I was incorrect in my first post though. (EDIT: Rage beat me to it) The correct thread size is 10-32 from what I can see. I would just tap it for the next size, but my set goes from 10-32 up to 1/4-20. A little too big I think. The downside is the insert is .200" or about 5mm, and that's quite a bit too long. I may have to just suck it up and go buy a bigger tap set.


If you decide to drill and tap the next size up, be sure to check the hole size on your trigger frame. You may also have to drill the trigger frame the next size up too.

I would suggest heli-coil or insert, so you don't have to drill the trigger frame.

BigOldSkool 02-17-2013 12:13 PM

Nutsert it man....

Graynutt 02-24-2013 07:40 PM

Drill for the next size up. you might have to go two sizes up. i can not remember. then find the material you want to use either stainless or aluminum cap head screw or set screws. insert material in predrilled hole and lock-tight it in place. then drill out the center with the correct size.

DocsMachine 02-26-2013 03:06 AM

It's an easy and very common fix.

I use standard Heli-Coils in most cases. There's no real difference between a Heli-Coil and the insert style ASP sells. Same idea, same results, take your pick. Just keep in mind the metal is fairly thin- if you're buying the parts, make sure the installed length is correct. Most basic prepacked "installation kits" come with inserts too long for the body, and would have to be cut down.

Basically, once properly 'coiled or inserted, I've never had any trouble with them again.

In the case of the body being anodized, it's pretty simple; drill and tap for the 'coil/insert, send the body off for anno, and once it's done, then install the insert of your choice. Easy-peasy. :D

Doc.


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:58 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO
© MCB Network LLC