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Old 12-30-2013, 09:19 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Centerflag Uprising 13bps frame.

Currently working on a cocker build (my first ever!!) and I found a used centerflag uprising frame for sale.
I had intended originally on making it an E2 then changed my mind to making a mech with a slider... now I'm wondering if anyone could convince me to go with the centerflag frame.
Anyone have alot of experiance with them/ know if they are worth using?
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Old 01-01-2014, 06:42 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I don't care for them. If you must make it an electro, you'll be happier with the Eblade.
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Old 01-02-2014, 09:04 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I like them, but they are definitely different and I do a lot to mine in order to make them feel better. They are not like shooting an eblade or a modern electro, but if you put some effort in they can be really fun.

Pro:
- Big frame (pro for me, have big hands)
- You can keep using mech three ways
- Cheap
- Much faster than a non-pneu'ed mech
- Moronically simple to operate

Con:
- Stock trigger pretty much sucks
- Trigger m/s stock is really heavy
- Stock grips are plastic, and not very good
- Not quite as fast as an eblade, but can get pretty close
- Semi-only
- Need to cut down a actuator rod if you don't have one with it
- Heavy

Luke makes grip panels and triggers that fit, make them a little more comfortable, and can be anno'ed. I actually modify mine using a lighter trigger m/s, then modify Critical spyder triggers heavily to get it to fit, and it's a massive improvement. I was able to get it very close to walkable. Here's how my most recent came out:



I also have the manual if you need it.
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Old 01-03-2014, 03:34 PM   #4 (permalink)
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cfos00, what did you have to do with the Spyder trigger to make it work?

I'm intrigued as I have a mag Centerflag frame with a very poor trigger in it.

Do you have any suggestions to trigger pin replacement? Mine is, quite literally, a finisher nail from what I can determine.


It's slightly related, but sorry if this is considered too off topic.
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Old 01-03-2014, 08:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I actually just mod the trigger. Replacing the trigger pin would probably be a little better, but it would also mean drilling out the frame. I'm not willing to do that, as you can't go back to stock if someone would want to do so.

It's actually not too tough, but there is a fair amount of work involving files/dremel. I shave down the head of the trigger, remove the top set screw and it's little arm on the top of the spyder trigger. They're huge and you don't need them at all. I then shave the trigger head (where the trigger pin goes) so that the three way arm can slide freely over the top of it. Next I focused on the back of the area with the trigger pin. I drilled a hole and added a set screw there in order to remove trigger slack. It gets most of it, but not quite all of it out. Thankfully, you don't really need to get all of it out, as the end result should be a trigger going very, very little distance and constantly on the MS.

After that, I filed down the top of the spyder trigger's front blade, by which I mean the top of the trigger right next to the bottom of the frame. The trigger is a close fit, but needs some help in order to fit. You need to file it down just a little in order for the head of the trigger to be able to reach the trigger pin. It's not that much metal that you have to remove, but you can't just drop it in.

Next, you have to reshape the back of the trigger in order to fit. Back to the file. Remove a little bit of metal, and then use the dremel with a sandpaper drum to smooth it out. Basically, it's the top of the trigger that you need to focus on, along with the squared off area near the trigger stop screw. This is where you get your ability to swing the trigger. The more you shave, the more your entire trigger can swing freely. The bottom part you need to shave for a pretty obvious reason. It hits the bump in the frame, and needs to get shaved down.

The set screw in the trigger normally doesn't line up, so you need to drill in another. The one I did above was just slightly off in terms of location, so I actually drilled out a slot, lined it up perfectly, then drilled it out and threaded it so it would sit perfectly on the M/S (first time with this part of the mod, and was only halfway hitting where I wanted to hit on the first go). I didn't drill all the way through, making it hidden from the front.

For all the work you have to do for the mod, it makes a huge, huge difference. It's also all pretty much hidden if you're careful, meaning you don't really mess with any anno that actually shows. It can also be done with hand tools and a dremel, and took me about 3 hours, mostly because I was experimenting on getting the set screws how I wanted. I'd done two before without the extra set screw for the trigger pin and the M/S set screw, and this way was a LOT better. It made the trigger pull a LOT shorter and eliminated a ton of the slop. I like it a lot more than my Luke's trigger (straight blade versus Critical's shape), and it's a night and day difference when you compare it to stock.

Hope you don't mind the novel here. But if you go with an Uprising frame, I can't stress how much getting a different trigger will help. If you ask Acid Customs, I bet he could make an awesome trigger for it too. He does great custom work as well.
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Old 01-05-2014, 11:50 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I'm not too worried about modding my CF as I bought it with a non-working board and the statement that it was "just for show." I've debated putting a screw trigger pin in (something similar to this:

Violent Empire Axe/Mini Trigger pin | Paintball Gear Canada

) and then retro-fitting a Spyder board into the frame.

If you have any pics of the trigger post metal work that would be greatly appreciated. Either way, thanks for the "novel"--I like to read
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I would if I could, but I actually sold that marker and shipped it out. The only frame I have left has a luke's trigger on it.
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:41 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Such is life. Thanks for the description. I may just give it a go anyways. Cheers.
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Old 01-07-2014, 01:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Let me know if you want any help. I may pick up for my twister's uprising frame. I LOVE the critical triggers. So much nicer
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Old 01-07-2014, 01:49 PM   #10 (permalink)
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If you need a new board I have both 20bps and 13bps boards. The 13bps boards have a fun kind of ramping mode on them that gets up to 10bps.

I am currently working on getting an inverts trigger to work in one of my hyperframes. I like the stock 2x trigger cause its old school but for looks and speed I wanted to go with something else.
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