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Old 02-13-2014, 08:18 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Zero B / Psycho Ballistics Chopping suggestions?

Settings are as follows:
TT Band 75%
TT TOL 12%
Release 4mS
Pull 1mS
Empty 2mS


SON 4.0mS
C OFF 28mS
C T/OUT 1.0s
C ON 65mS
C DELAY 6.0mS

Anyone have any suggestions? Doesnt matter how fast or slow I shoot it, eyes on/off and theres no blowback to speak of (2nd ball drops right into chamber)
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Old 02-13-2014, 08:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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What hopper are you using? Is your ball detent in good condition? What about the sensitivity of the eye? If you dry fire does the bolt stay back for a secon with the eyes on? I just readjusted the timing on my E2 so I can compare the setting on mine. I'm at work now But I'll post up my adjustments tonight.
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Old 02-13-2014, 09:12 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hopper Ive used a Proph, Revy, Halo and no hopper It chops within 3 or 4 shots
Eye is at 50% and reads fine and there is a pause if Im dry firing with eye on
When on classic, its cocking properly, LPR is properly adjusted.. (not new to cockers, just stumped by this!)

Last edited by Ken448; 02-13-2014 at 09:21 PM.
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Old 02-13-2014, 10:03 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken448 View Post
Hopper Ive used a Proph, Revy, Halo and no hopper It chops within 3 or 4 shots
Eye is at 50% and reads fine and there is a pause if Im dry firing with eye on
When on classic, its cocking properly, LPR is properly adjusted.. (not new to cockers, just stumped by this!)
I didn't mean to offend you I just don't know who you are or what knowlege you have of cockers or e-cockers. I just like to cover the basics first.

Because the bolt stays back for a second while dry firing and it cycles fine in "classic" I'm assuming that the 3 way and it's wiring are ok. The LPR may be a little low though.

Next I would verify that the bolt is clearing the breach and is lubricated. Then make sure the lower tube is lubricated too.

The only other thing I can think of besides timing would be paint/barrel match. If you go too tight you may get 3-4 shots off before you get a barrel break.

I'll keep chiming in as I get ideas.
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Old 02-13-2014, 10:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
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nope, not offended at all!
Paint doesnt matter, barrel bore doesnt matter. I can get 4-5 rounds, then a break (breech and bolt full of paint) Then a few more and another break.
Lubed properly and LPR (unless it has shootdown I dont realize) is fine as well, but this happens regardless of ROF
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Old 02-13-2014, 10:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
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ROF shouldn't matter on an E-cocker. Unlike a mech cocker your cycle rate is fixed no matter how fast you pull the trigger. Let me explain.

SON 4.0mS: This is your "sear on" time. This controls your clapper solenoid in the grip frame and is what actually fires the gun. 3-4ms is where you want this to be set.

C OFF 28mS: Tis is what delays your 3 way from actuating. You want this to be set long enough for the ball to begin to be propelled down the barrel and to avoid "blowback." But not so long as to hinder your rate of fire. I think that mine is set in the ball park of 30ms.

C T/OUT 1.0s: This controls the "time out" for your bolt when you don't have a ball drop in the chamber. You want this to be maxed out at 1.0s

C ON 65mS: This controls how long the 3 way solenoid remains open for. I belive 66ms is default on factory fast. I've seen this go as low as 22ms. The lower this number is the higher your LPR needs to be set. Mine is set at ~40ms. This affects your ROF the most and to go much lower than 40ms you have to do some really involved timing and tuning.

C DELAY 6.0mS I forget what this number is. I'll look it up tonight.

I think your LPR may be too low for your ROF. If it works fine in classic mode or while dry firing but not during normal semi shooting your LPR is likely set too low.
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Old 02-14-2014, 08:11 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken448 View Post
Settings are as follows:
TT Band 75%
TT TOL 12%
Release 4mS
Pull 1mS
Empty 2mS


SON 4.0mS
C OFF 28mS
C T/OUT 1.0s
C ON 65mS
C DELAY 6.0mS

OK here are my settings:

*Timing menu*
SEAR ON: 4.0MS
C DELAY: 5.0MS
C ON: 35 MS
C/T OUT: 1.0S
C OFF: 35MS

*Filter menu*
BALL: 1MS
EMPTY: 2MS
PULL: 1MS
RELEASE: 1MS



Keep in mind that this is modified from the "Factory Fast" settings and that the lower your C ON and C OFF times are the higher your LPR will ned to be. The "C" times control your 3 way solenoid. if you want a faster ROF lower the "C" times and raise your LPR accordingly. If you just want ~10-12 BPS and a smoother firing cycle then just use the factory fast setting and adjust the LPR for that.

Also note that getting a E-bladed cocker to shoot 15+ BPS requires more tuning than just entering the advanced menu and changing a few numbers. You need to make sure that your internals are always clean and properly lubed. You need to properly adjust your timing lug and it is best if it is polished and lubed. You'll want a light pump arm, back block, and a good bolt. You'll need a good ram with QEVs, a good LPR, and good hoses. Your eyes and ball detent need to be clean and properly adjusted. Your cocking rod and back block need to be properly adjusted. You'll need a good inline reg that recharges fast. A proper paint to barrel match is of course a necessity. You'll also want lo pressure internals with an appropriate spring kit and of course sweet spot the reg for maximum efficiency. This is a lot of work but when it all comes together it makes for one sweet shooting gun.

I don't want to bombard you with too much information. But I want you to know what to expect if you plan on making this a cocker fast enough to pit against some of the new tourney guns without fear of being outgunned. If nothing else it is fun to show up the rich snotty kids on the field with a gun that is older than them.
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Old 02-14-2014, 07:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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How much paint are you loading during you're tests? My eblade consistently CHOPS on a low hopper due to breach bounce. As long as I keep the hopper 10% full or more I don't have issues, but I know lots of guys don't load full hoppers for testing.

Also Superbolt cockers have a strange barrel thread. Most standard cocker barrels leave a small gap between the front of the breach and bore of the barrel, It's never been an issue on mine but you might try shooting the stock barrel some and seeing if any paint breaks in the breach or if you just have barrel breaks due to the big bore.
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Old 02-14-2014, 08:50 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I had similar problems expecially with the 2 color HSI paint. I though the gun was cursed as no tuning settings I tried ever really helped at all. What finally did some good was setting it back to factory fast then cranking up the sensitivity. (SENSITIV). I think what the result of this is that more of the ball has to be between the eyes before firing will occur. I think mine was shooting before the ball dropped all the way.
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Old 02-28-2014, 07:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Did you ever get this figured out and fixed?
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