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-   -   Re-anodizing a Pre 2k cocker body questions (http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/wgp/252221-re-anodizing-pre-2k-cocker-body-questions.html)

infamoussmiley 02-28-2014 01:30 PM

Re-anodizing a Pre 2k cocker body questions
 
Hello,

I have been searching for a specific Splash anodizing pattern for a Cocker for a while now. It has been suggested that I take a cocker body and have it splashed anodized.
If I were to do this with a Pre 2K body, what kinds of issues would I expect?


How much tolerance will I lose?


What bodies should I avoid?


Which bodies are best for anodizing?


Who is best at reproducing the mid to late 90s splash ano patterns?



Please let me know.

Most humbly,

Smiley Burke

JLuke 02-28-2014 04:02 PM

Tolerances will be fine on a cocker after an anno or two, there's no "active" orings in a cocker, all are basically static ones, and the bolt ones are kinda eh, not quite as important as say a rammer oring on a timmy or something.

infamoussmiley 02-28-2014 10:57 PM

If I was going with a PRe 2k body, what body - Sniper 1 - to something from 1999 - which body would be best for reano?

Just an FYI, I want to build a pump out of it.

Smiley

minimag03 03-01-2014 06:35 PM

I suppose pre98 bodies would be best for reanodizing. They had more of a matte finish. The 98-99 bodies had a dust finish which the anodizer would have to polish if you wanted a gloss finish. A pre98 body would just clean up a lot quicker/easier. But some anodizers will give you a break for stuff like that and some don't care. Cause pre98 bodies also use a smaller valve spring and have a smaller valve chamber. So a spring kit will be much harder to find and it will run at a higher pressure.

No matter what, make sure you get a non-stock vertical ASA reanodized with the gun. The stock ASAs of the time were made from a different grade of aluminum that doesn't hold anodizing that well. There are a bunch of nice KAPP ones on eBay for less than $10 new.

Mikedz88 03-04-2014 11:54 PM

thanks for the info as well


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