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|02-28-2014, 01:30 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: May 2006
Re-anodizing a Pre 2k cocker body questions
I have been searching for a specific Splash anodizing pattern for a Cocker for a while now. It has been suggested that I take a cocker body and have it splashed anodized.
If I were to do this with a Pre 2K body, what kinds of issues would I expect?
How much tolerance will I lose?
What bodies should I avoid?
Which bodies are best for anodizing?
Who is best at reproducing the mid to late 90s splash ano patterns?
Please let me know.
|02-28-2014, 04:02 PM||#2 (permalink)|
Doesn't care (/◕ヮ◕)/
Tolerances will be fine on a cocker after an anno or two, there's no "active" orings in a cocker, all are basically static ones, and the bolt ones are kinda eh, not quite as important as say a rammer oring on a timmy or something.
I don't always play pump, but when I do, I prefer a rotor.....stay agg my friends.
|03-01-2014, 06:35 PM||#4 (permalink)|
WVU paintball #19
I suppose pre98 bodies would be best for reanodizing. They had more of a matte finish. The 98-99 bodies had a dust finish which the anodizer would have to polish if you wanted a gloss finish. A pre98 body would just clean up a lot quicker/easier. But some anodizers will give you a break for stuff like that and some don't care. Cause pre98 bodies also use a smaller valve spring and have a smaller valve chamber. So a spring kit will be much harder to find and it will run at a higher pressure.
No matter what, make sure you get a non-stock vertical ASA reanodized with the gun. The stock ASAs of the time were made from a different grade of aluminum that doesn't hold anodizing that well. There are a bunch of nice KAPP ones on eBay for less than $10 new.
|03-04-2014, 11:54 PM||#5 (permalink)|
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: 805 CA
thanks for the info as well
M.A.D Cali 805
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