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Old 02-01-2008, 02:00 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Talking Ecocker - What have I gotten myself into?

So, after a long break in paintball, it looks like I got my hands on an Ecocker. So.. what does this mean? I am told it still works fine, but from the pictures it looks more than a little dirty. the worst looking of the bunch that middle piece. Looks pretty nasty. (I have NO idea the proper name of it, but I am more than willing to learn with PLENTY of time on my hands.)



Here is another pic of it.



Also, can someone give me a lowdown of what I have gotten myself into? I have a owned cocker, though briefly, before. It was a 99-01 STO (not sure on the year exactly). I manged to get it timed myself and replace the 3way (I understand that the Ecockers remove this piece?), so tinkering and things like that don't bother me at all. Just curious from the pics what you guys can make out from it.

I have done some looking online for a ECocker faq, but have come up fairly empty handed. I am willing to guess it is because it is because I have NO idea what I should be searching for. I need owner's manual type action + more. And, again, I have NO problem learning, maybe all over again, what I am doing here, just hope that someone here will hold my hand.

Back in my day I was "The Guy" for working on M98 and Spyder's and that was in high school full of beer and other mind altering substances , so I figure now that I am mostly sober I can wrap my mind around something more complicated. At least I hope.
Thanks
Jay

FYI This is a "Tinker" marker. I have a B2K4 as well (if PBnation doesn't fall me again) as my "main" for the time being. I hope that my fiancee will be using the bushy and I will be using the cocker in a few months
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Old 02-01-2008, 04:47 AM   #2 (permalink)
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By "the middle piece" I assume you are referring to the middle of the front block, that would be a volumizer, which doesn't really do anything. Well, some people swear by them, but while I have seen them drop a pre-2k autococker's pressure by nearly 100psi, I have seen almost no noticeable effect on the post 2K style as there is already plenty of flow available.

It looks like you have a 2k3/2k4 era cocker, that has been e-bladed. It looks like it is an E-1, and it seems you have an adjustable LPR, and QEVs on your ram, so you have all of the good pneumatic components. Looks like a Bob Long Torpedo Regulator is your HPR, they are fine regs, so that will do fine.

It seems that eyes are installed, and that means that this will be one fast gun, without chopping much paint. The Only real thing you need to know is that you still have to "time" your hammer lug. You should be able to change your firing mode to something called classic, this will allow the cocker to operate like a mechanical in that you can hold down the trigger and the back block will stay back.

This will allow you to get a feel for the timing easier, what you are attempting to do, is make the gun fire, right before the electronic 3-way fires, chances are the three way is set to actuate at the right time by default. However the hammer will from time to time move out or up, which makes the marker fire earlier. If it continues to do so, it will eventually stop firing, but will still cycle. too close of firing to cycling will add blowback up the feed tube, at the perfect point, a slight vacuum is created in firing.

To adjust the hammer, simply remove the bolt, and use the access hole to adjust the hammer in the bottom tube just like any normal cocker.

I don't really remember optimal settings, since it has been a long time since I have used one, but it is safe to say that your setup should be pretty good, the ram should cycle fast due to the QEVs and you can adjust the pressure to make it as fast as it needs to be since it has an adjustable LPR.
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Old 02-01-2008, 11:36 AM   #3 (permalink)
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This cocker is fine, a little dirty but fine. You may want to replace the rust screw in the eye cover. I would concur the it is an E1. You should turn on your board and see what version it is. If the display is red, then you have an e1 board which will eat batteries, even when the grip is off. In which case I recommend a board upgrade. The only place that still makes them is scenario dreams. Its called the t board. Its an extremely good board.

As far as timing, sdlm covered the hammer, but as for the grip...

Inside the grip cover there is a button, if you hold this down it will get you into advanced settings like timing and mode. In there it makes it easy for you. You can use factory settings for slow medium and fast markers.

the marker you have should be fast. It is the qev's that will gain you the speed. You can probably just set it to fast. there are a bunch of different settings for the timing in there as well, which are very advanced and confusing at first. You probably won't need to mess with it.

If the marker is firing, it probably won't need to be messed with. Cockers are good in that once its tuned right, you do not need to change anything.

Because of the eblade, it is much easier to tune. Push buttons, done.

If it were me, I would do a complete tear down and rebuild. Including the regs to make sure the seals are good and to oil it up.

You can on on ebay and purchase real cheap eblade screw sets. Last time I looked, they had a bunch. So you can replace all the rusty screws.

And as well, If you don't want it, you can give it to me


EDIT: Almost forgot...

I don't know if you are looking to shoot fast, or if that matters. You will need to get your self a motorized hopper. The hopper is really going to determine your max rate of fire. For high rate of fire, you should either a VL velocity or at least a halo b with a victory board.
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Last edited by Mindless_Chaos; 02-01-2008 at 11:42 AM.
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Old 02-01-2008, 11:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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For sure will be getting a loader other than my OLD school 9v revvy. Now I need to figure out exactly what the hell happened to that end of things. Thanks for the reassuring words on the marker, and I will look for a board. Only thing I want this to eat is paint, not batteries
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Old 02-03-2008, 12:30 AM   #5 (permalink)
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unless you get lucky one ebay, this is the only board you will find for it.

Scenario Dreams, LLC

Its an excellent board, but has no lcd, just an led, but its all good.
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Old 02-05-2008, 01:30 AM   #6 (permalink)
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How hard is that to install? It looks like its not exactly plug n' play and that doesn't bother me much. Just curious what I am getting myself into if I were to try to install it.
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Old 02-05-2008, 03:01 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I have one of these boards for my E-blade'd cocker. I can say I never had problems with it. It is a direct plug and play for the frame you have. Getting the buttons to stay in their holes while I put the board in was the hardest part for me.

BRAND NEW ZERO B BOARD FOR E1 BY PLANET ECLIPSE!!!! - eBay (item 220199147672 end time Feb-11-08 17:04:28 PST)
Eclipse Autococker Zero B Upgrade Board at ADIOM Sports

As for learning things such as part names and their purpose I suggest this site.

The AutoCocker Pages

It'll help you get the major stuff.
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Old 02-05-2008, 03:09 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Get a mq2 valve, you can get rid of the 2nd noid(sear noid) it is a battery hog. Pull the battery when not in use. The big power savings of the e2 is the much lower dormant draw of power and a better sear noid.
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Old 02-05-2008, 03:49 PM   #9 (permalink)
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MQ valves are pretty good for eliminating kick, but for a person that's newer to cockers it might seem like a lot to deal with. They replace the entire bottom tube. Poppet, valve, hammer, spring, and the solenoid in the frame. You'll need a Valve removal tool to install it.

I have a first generation MQ but i've heard they made improvements. The first ones wouldn't work well with a lower battery.
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Old 02-05-2008, 07:12 PM   #10 (permalink)
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As far as i understand it the t-board for the cocker eye logic is bust/non existant- tadao is rumored to be makeing an eblade board (seeing as they programed the SR board)

shoot me an PM with any cocker questions or anything you may need- ecockers are great reliable efficant paintthrowing machines
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