Paintball

[Phantom Power]

It's certainly possible. The hoses could be backwards as well. The difference between a slide trigger and a hinge trigger is that one pulls the timing rod and the other pushes it so the hoses are reversed between the two types. If that's all that is wrong though, the marker should cycle it should just be backwards (ie pulling the trigger makes the block go forward and releasing it makes it come back).

If it's sticking back even when you're pulling the trigger, then it's probably just that you've adjusted the collar on the timing rod past the point where it's able to throw the 4-way to the other position. You can try turning it in 1/4 turn increments until you get it to work properly. The other thing is that if the LPR pressure is too high, it can make the 4-way very sticky and it won't want to switch very well.

I hope some of that helps. Troubleshooting a cocker, especially a new (to you) one involves quite a bit of process of elimination.

[Jordan]

Originally Posted by Moosepatrol

Okay got the three way orings replaced and gassed up my cocker (note to self install top hats so I don't have a hose whip my finger again), so it holds air, but back block goes back to cock the gun but stays there. Now a previous post stated this is probably having the hoses in the wrong places correct? Also I think my three way rod might not be catching the front airway on my three way. I read in an autcocker timing guide to push the trigger rod all the way against the three way rod and tighten the allen screws. Is it possible I have also shortened the travel too much?

Glad to hear you got the seals.

You may have the hoses on incorrectly - for a slider frame, the hose off the front of the ram should be on the rear-most 3-way barb, and the hose off the rear of the ram should be on the front-most barb.

You didn't use the 3-way shaft in the seal kit, did you? If so, that's your problem. The o-ring spacing is way too far apart for modern 3-ways - I believe it fits the really old-style 3-way, the one with c-clips.

Take some pictures, if possible, of your setup. As a last resort, you can ship the gun to me and I can take a look at it. Seriously, if you want, I would love to look at it for you.

A pic of the 3-way hose setup: http://www.freewebs.com/jordan98/IMG_0957.jpg

Jordan

[Moosepatrol]

Yes Jordan thanks I got the parts, no I used my original three way rod and the new o-rings.Everything seals up nicely, but I think it is the hoses reversed. Thanks for the offer for looking at my cocker but I have always felt the best way to learn is to work through anything you start. I'll get this gun working sooner or later .

[Moosepatrol]

Okay a couple of problems solved.
1. The three way rod was barley catching the last airway, adjusted that, good to go.
2. Pressure lowered on the L.P.R., gun now cycles and fires.

I have adjusted the cocking rod and the pump rod to proper lengths, so far the lug doesn't touch the body and cocks. WOOHOO. After all this the L.P.R. has started leaking from the centre hole on the adjustment knob. . Now I have applied liberal amounts of air oil into my a.s.a. and down the centre shaft of the L.P.R.(ANS L.P.R.) and dry fired to see if the seals would soften up and reseat. No good, question is, are there rebuild kits for these? A generic set of seals from a hardware store? So damn close to working. Oh one other thing, even when I screw out the adjustment knob to the point where there is not enough pressure to cock the gun it still has a slow leak from the L.P.R.

[Jordan]

Originally Posted by Moosepatrol

Okay a couple of problems solved.
1. The three way rod was barley catching the last airway, adjusted that, good to go.
2. Pressure lowered on the L.P.R., gun now cycles and fires.

I have adjusted the cocking rod and the pump rod to proper lengths, so far the lug doesn't touch the body and cocks. WOOHOO. After all this the L.P.R. has started leaking from the centre hole on the adjustment knob. . Now I have applied liberal amounts of air oil into my a.s.a. and down the centre shaft of the L.P.R.(ANS L.P.R.) and dry fired to see if the seals would soften up and reseat. No good, question is, are there rebuild kits for these? A generic set of seals from a hardware store? So damn close to working. Oh one other thing, even when I screw out the adjustment knob to the point where there is not enough pressure to cock the gun it still has a slow leak from the L.P.R.

I think those older style ANS LPRs use a schrader style pinvalve in them. You should be able to take the body off of the base (should be 4 setscrews there) and flip the reg seat that the pinvalve seats on. Sounds like you've got a bad seal in there - there's not much to those things.

If there was a rebuild kit for those things, they're long gone - ANS hasn't made a LPR for a LOOONG time. I've got a couple of extra LPR's if you need one, and I'm sure there are others for sale here if you decided to go that route. Try checking out the seals first - they're a nice LPR when they work. I THINK that some Mag seals may work in there.

Jordan

[Moosepatrol]

Yes it is a pin valve, when I looked in from the bottom (already had the entire L.P.R. taken apart) I could see the seal, some pretty deep ridges in the seal. How does the seal come out? Can you push it out from the top or get a hold of it from the bottom, thanks.

[Moosepatrol]

Pulled the seal from the bottom of the L.P.R. and flipped it over, now I have a nice even seal. Problem is I still have a very slight leak coming out from the centre of the adjusting knob. Question is this normal? Since this is the first one I have had I would say this isn't supposed to happen. Any help guys would be appreciated.

[Jordan]

Sorry - didn't have a chance to pull my ANS LPR apart.

No, leaks are not normal - you shouldn't have any leaking from it. You need a rebuild kit, I would think - try replacing the other seals in there (I don't think there are very many seals, though.) Otherwise, you're looking at replacing it.

If I can get mine apart, I'll get back to you on if seals can be replaced - I've got a similar problem myself with it.

Jordan

[Moosepatrol]

Cool thanks Jordan, The seal on the bottom was easy, I'll have to see how to take everything apart from the top. Good news is everything was spaced and setup and I shot some paint through it even with the leak and she fires fine and no chops.