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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Active Member Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 111
| im building a sniper so far i have a mint condition aim eagle body in dust black and a glass black ccm feedneck coming soon. what other parts do i need and what do you recomend. iam planning on getting a ccm 86* frame and a ccm pump kit and i would like a freak barrel. but after that i am unsure. ane suggestions would be apreciated. |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| I am the thread killer Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Vegas Baby!
Posts: 775
| Well that brings your shopping list down a bit... aside from the parts you mentioned you will probably need: lower internals, CCM makes a really nice lower internal kit that includes a valve, springs, a hammer, a valve jam nut and a valve retaining screw. A cocking rod. A back block. A bolt. A regulator. Whatever tank mounting and air lines you prefer. After that you should be set. CCM makes all those components, although it adds up quickly. I hate to be precieved as a CCM fanboy (I'm really not, I hate CCM but I use thier stuff anyway), but there is no denying that for currently manufactures sniper components they are the leader. |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| Active Member Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 147
| Looks like you are starting off decent. Make sure you get a nice derlon bolt. Superfly, jackal, or just a plain wgp derlin bolt will do. Thats all I can purpose to you.
__________________ MCB Feedback, PBNation Feedback, View My Special Ops Brigade Page, Homemade Field "I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones." - Albert Einstein |
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| | #5 (permalink) | |
| I am the thread killer Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Vegas Baby!
Posts: 775
| Quote:
Stiffi bolts are fine, ala they work about as well as most. The main marketing attraction to that bolt is that is it light weight for faster semi cycleing. As t3rd_hugg3r pointed out, a delrin bolt is advantageous for pumps as they are typically oring free and light enough, but mostly because they are smooth sliders and make the best use of the refinements of your CCM pump kit. Detents? I would reccomend them to prevent double feeding. Beyond that, one ball detent is the same as another to me. I have one thats all stainless, I have one thats aluminum with a delrin ball. I like them both. I like them particularly because they do thier job well. In a way its like asking what shoelaces you have. It doesnt really matter as long as they do thier job, and if they dont do thier job, you notice right away and minor tragedy follows. | |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Active Member Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 111
| so your saying that all internals are the same or that all aftermarket ones are the same. i found black ndz ball detent from my old prostock that i am going to use. im going to buy the first reasnably priseddelrin bolt that i find. is there any good websites that have cocker parts? and no front black is needed right? just the pump kit? thanks for all of your help. i appreciate it. |
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| I am the thread killer Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Vegas Baby!
Posts: 775
| the pump kit will go in place of the front block, so no front block will be neccesary. the valve and spring combination will determine where the sweet spot is. the easiest build I have ever had was a total ccm setup. I had a ccm lower tube kit matched with a ccm regulator. another easy build was an all shocktech lower tube and a shocktech bolt matched with a palmers regulator. if you see a pattern here, its that you can make life easier on yourself by matching components made by the same company because they were designed to work well together. you can go peicemeal but that adds an element of uncertainty that needs some experience in tuning autocockers. |
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