New to owning an autococker , I have some questions.
i recently got this 2001 right feed autocker. i traded a 98 custom pro with flatline for it. i also got a pt pistol in the deal.
but the gun has some upgrades like a ans quick pull bolt, slider frame , pmi reg ( that doesnt work ) and a 12 inch cmi rifled barrel. now i dont play paintball much and when i do its usualy just recball with friends. around here ( rockland , maine ) there is only co2 so ive got a nice 20oz tank with on/off.
when i first gassed it up the regulator leaked so i just screwed my co2 tank into the v/a and the gun worked fine. but id like to make it shoot a little bit better with co2. how would you reccomend i make this happen ? i know i should probaly get a male stabalizer. but is there anything else ?
thanks for the help , ive been playing for about 7 years but this is the first autococker ive owned. heres a few pictures.http://aycu21.webshots.com/image/858...5459146_th.jpghttp://aycu06.webshots.com/image/720...4014340_th.jpghttp://aycu25.webshots.com/image/898...8349546_th.jpg
Set your CO2 tank up with an anti-siphon tube if you haven't already.
You could also try using an expansion chamber instead of the PMI reg to help keep the liquid out. Installing (and making) anti-siphon tubes isn't that hard. The hard part is finding something to hold your tank while you take the valve off (of course when there is no pressure or air in the tank). You have to be careful of using vices because it may dent and damage your tank.
A large strapwrench will turn the tank while someone you trust holds a crescent wrench around the valve. This works better if you wrap the section of the tank you want to grip with rough fabric medical tape as well.
I'd guess that if you get a good expansion chamber you shouldn't need an anti syphon tank. Wouldn't that sort of be like wearing both belt and suspenders?
The big deal about operating without a regulator is that you may/will get some variation in velocity as the temperatures change. It may not be enough to matter though.
The PMI reg should be able to be rebuilt. I've got one and it's not hard to get apart. What IS poor about it is getting a decent seal on the lower block with the fitting. It tends to shred the ring as the sharp edge closes up the gap on the larger outside ring.
A palmers male stab and anti-siphon tank would be best. The stab will work great at keeping some liquid out but that is if the liquid gets out of the tank.
Fattie...look here. I created it so PM me any questions...
Now...I also have a 2k1 RF Cocker. Please define "shoot a little better on CO2" for me...as in...'what are you looking for?"
Accuracy? Efficiency? Faster ROF?
My first inclination is to say that after you get the Stab, take a mini gauge and install it into the bottom screw in the front block (don't put it on the reg, it gets in the way). Set your input PSI to about 425/450 and micromanage your fps at the IVG. Speaking of pneus...the LPR, what's on it? Looks like a Rock...they are decent LPRs. Your ram is stock and it appears your 3-way is too (can't see it well). Replace them with BelSales (pricey but worth it) products...or at least the 3-way with a new Bomb 3-way...Belsales are way better IMO though...
Get high flow barbs, you need at least 6...three for the 3way 1 for the LPR and 2 for the ram and replace your Cocker hose.
Replace the detent with a Kila and you may want to consider replacing the bolt with an AKA Lightening version you like. The back block can be replaced with something smaller and lighter as well.
Toss the barrel and get a good one...Freak, Stiffy...Hell, a J&J Ceramic if you like. Kits allow you to use different paints but if you use this in recball and stick with one brand, get one barrel in one size bigger than the bore of your paint (helps to reduce barrel breaks from odd-shaped paint).
Make sure it's timed properly. There are plenty of sites that show you how in great detail.
That's all I can think of right now...
Druid, that's a great write up.
If I may though I'd really suggest you alter the instructions to use one of the following two options for clamping the bottle. Both suggestions are based on the idea that most folks don't realize just how easy it is to crush the tank and if the loctite is still holding and making the tank skid in the jaws I just KNOW that they'll tighten the thing up and risk some damage.
A- use a strap wrench instead of the vise.
B- Use the vise as in your method but start with cinching down two or three SS hose clamps quite tightly first with all the screws lined up. Then pinch it LIGHTLY in the vise using the padding such that the hose clamp screws are bearing on the jaw that will hold the tank from rotating. If the tank still wants to slip then move one of the clamps so the screw fits UNDER the other jaw so it's trapped between the vise jaws and can't move.
i know the difficulties of changing a valve. i put the on/off valve on my tank myself a few years ago and have had no issues. it was also pretty easy to take off.
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