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What Is It? Even after cleaning off the dust.... Still don't know what you have? Let the knowledgeable old-timers help you out

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Old 03-08-2011, 11:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
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68 Automag?

So I have no knowledge of Automags and after looking at some Automag websites I'm no closer to knowing what exactly I picked up. This looks a little different than the Automags I have seen listed for sale here. My questions: what exactly do I have and is it worth anything? When I strip it down are there any internals I should be inspecting that might make it more or less desirable? I was told it works perfectly but what kind of o-ring kit should I get if I want to give it a once over?

The guy I got this from said he spent over 800 on his setup in the 90's but didn't specify what that included. The gun is marked "68 AUTOMAG A.I.R. A-dvanced I-ntegrated R-egulator" on the front side and "CF35011" in two places on the rear. The rear knob and grips say "TASO". There is an expansion chamber with no markings. The barrel is rifled inside and says "ARMSON - MADE IN REPUBLIC OF SOUTH AFRICA" near the tip.

I haven't cleaned it up at all but it's in good condition - no scratches just some light surface scuffs.













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Old 03-08-2011, 11:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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that marker was built for CO2
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Old 03-09-2011, 12:30 AM   #3 (permalink)
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There's some nice stuff on it , taso x chamber,might be a cut benchmark trigger frame,dbl trigger,nice site rail and rail.The barrel was the one to have at one time. Over all a nice find.. The 68 classic o-ring kit will work...Value ..150.00 give or take.. MAGS LOVE OIL!!!

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Old 03-09-2011, 12:37 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Pretty valve.
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Old 03-09-2011, 12:50 AM   #5 (permalink)
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That Mag was well taken care of or hardly used...
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Old 03-09-2011, 02:58 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I wanna say taso or diamond labs grip frame due to the hump back
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Old 03-09-2011, 11:12 AM   #7 (permalink)
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That frame also looks like it has the room for trigger guard rebuild, if you were so inclined.
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Old 03-09-2011, 11:53 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thank you for all of the feedback! Am I best off running it with the expansion chamber and CO2? I have heard some older guns behave badly with air.

I was originally going to resell right away but I'm itching to get it cleaned up and use it for at least a few games. Mags were kind of a pipe dream back when I started with my new pro-lite.
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Old 03-10-2011, 10:28 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanuval View Post
Thank you for all of the feedback! Am I best off running it with the expansion chamber and CO2? I have heard some older guns behave badly with air.

I was originally going to resell right away but I'm itching to get it cleaned up and use it for at least a few games. Mags were kind of a pipe dream back when I started with my new pro-lite.

Mags will always run better with HPA (more consistent, no freezing), it is just that with the expansion chamber it would be possible to run CO2. Even then you might get liquid in the valve in certain circumstances (pointing down, cold outside, etc). Just make sure your HPA is high pressure.

Oil it up good inside, air it up. If it leaks, follow one of these troubleshooting guides to find out which o-rings to replace.

Mag trouble shooting tips

Links to Tom Kaye's original videos that used to come on a VHS tape with each new Mag, it will tell you everything you ever wanted to know.
Automags.Org Online Forums - Tom Kaye AutoMag YouTube Videos
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Old 03-10-2011, 11:26 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanuval View Post
Thank you for all of the feedback! Am I best off running it with the expansion chamber and CO2? I have heard some older guns behave badly with air.

I was originally going to resell right away but I'm itching to get it cleaned up and use it for at least a few games. Mags were kind of a pipe dream back when I started with my new pro-lite.
There are a couple of issues that might come up with that vintage of valve, both correctable.

The first is that using HPA requires a slightly higher regulator pressure for the same velocity. Sometimes the older regulator pistons have a relief setting that is too low for that. It will start leaking out of the adjustment hole when you try to turn the velocity up. You either have to shoot at a lower velocity, or order a new piston from airgundesignsusa.com or email Tunaman here on MCB or AO.

You might also see some shoot down, more with HPA than CO2. The outlet port on the older AIR valves were not necessarily drilled to match the 12 o'clock inlet port on the valve body. This is corrected by drilling a new hole in the regulator that matches the existing outlet port, but is at 12 o'clock, directly across from the valve inlet port. It's about a 1/8" hole. Or, you can buy another reg back that has the "8-hole mod" with a bunch of outlet holes in it. It would be nice to keep such a clean valve as yours together and just add the port, imo.
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