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What Is It? Even after cleaning off the dust.... Still don't know what you have? Let the knowledgeable old-timers help you out

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Old 04-12-2017, 10:20 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Jeepers, a clip catcher. Those are even harder to find then the SMG68. A few companies made them back in the day, but they were all flimsy and didn't last very long. This might be one of the Nasty Boys catchers?

Anyway, whats that on the rear of the receiver? It looks like the rear receiver cap is missing, and replaced with a plastic tube? Maybe its some sort of RVA? I know people did make RVAs back in the day, but not like this one.
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Old 04-13-2017, 02:58 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Original pictures did load but file size too big to be displayed,(272.7K max for jpg) but they are available for direct opening. Very little rust, the marker is in great shape and complete, even the front site is there. The velocity mod looks well done and won't hurt the value. The only thing that should be wrong are the o-rings have fallen apart, Definitely replace those. Urethane O-Rings only have a 5 year shelf life and handle liquid CO2 contact better than the black nitrile aftermarket rings. The urethanes will be frost white when new and yellow with age. The Factory Originals will be the same as the 68-Specials. Best buy them from The O-Ring Store . I get all mine from there and the correct o-rings are not expensive. I am listing the store part numbers for what you need.
The O-ring Store # Quantity Part Name
Model U70012 X2 Valve “seat” O-Rings
Model U90020 X2 Valve O-Ring / Bolt O-Ring
Model U90015 X1 Tank Pin Valve O-Ring
Use the correct tool to remove the valve snap rings. a nick in the brass will cut the new o-rings making it look like a cup seal failure. Grease these o-rings well to prevent cut or pinch damage on assembly. Also make sure the bolt tube is rust free and smooth on the inside or velocity will be unstable. Video of a properly working marker will fetch a much higher price than one of unknown condition. I recommend hanging onto it and protecting it from rust as these markers tend to rust and will become more rare and valuable. Please post more pictures of the removed velocity adjuster mod if you decide to change the o-rings. Also, do you have the original manuals that came with the marker?

FYI The Steel roll pin 1/8 x 3/4" under the valve is a retainer and needs a 1/8 punch to release the valve body from the receiver. Tap the pin out the same side it was driven in. Do not disconnect the spring protected gas line. When re-assembled, the valve should slide freely in the receiver, clean and lube accordingly.
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Last edited by StrayBlackCat; 04-13-2017 at 03:49 AM. Reason: remove unneeded wording, added the FYI
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Old 04-14-2017, 12:13 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks very much for the additional info, I ordered the O-rings so even if I don't overhaul the gun myself I can include them with the sale!
Here's the velocity adjuster with it's cover removed (the cover is held on by set screws). It appears to be a bolt with an allen screw running longitudinally down the center.


The clip catcher is made from steel, with what appears to be brass brazing at the joints. The paint is peeling quite badly.


Here's a link to the whole Photobucket account: craZivn's Library | Photobucket

The inside of the tube looks clean from what I can see through the cocking-lever slot, I'll take more pics if I decide to rebuild the gun.

Ivan

EDIT: I don't have the manual or any paperwork for the gun unfortunately.

Last edited by craZivn; 04-14-2017 at 12:19 AM.
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Old 04-15-2017, 05:59 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Thanks for the pic update. Paint peel is expected as the oil based paintballs easily damaged painted surfaces and the bag material will hold the oils. ASA threads are sharp. That marker is in great shape. If you remove the end cap. Tippmann originally inserted a tiny piece of lead under the set screw. (Was clipped from solid core plumbing solder) This protects the end cap threads from being damage by the hardened set screw and in turn damaging the receiver threading on removal. If it is missing, carefully deburr the end cap threads if damaged and use a tiny piece of modern lead free plumbing solder [Important: Solid Core only] under the set screw. It only needs to be big enough to flatten over the threads to protect them.
Only asked about the documents as no exclusive SMG-68 docs have ever surfaced to my knowledge. The SMG60 manual, the 68-Special manual and a warranty card were claimed to be the included documents.
I own several variants of the 68-Special but no unconverted Smg-68s. Unless I find someone that takes "out of print" Canadian currency, they would not be in my budget.
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Old 04-23-2017, 08:05 PM   #15 (permalink)
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You sure know a lot about these guns, again thanks for the info! I have the o-rings sitting on my desk, just waiting for the time to replace them.

One more question. Is it safe to hook up HPA to this gun for testing purposes? My Crossfire puts out right around 700PSI, which is less than CO2 is capable of but since the SMG is designed to run on liquid I'm not certain if there are complications.

Ivan
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Old 04-23-2017, 08:48 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I love that RVA. Ugly but effective industrial jury rig job covered with a professional looking sleeve.
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Old 04-24-2017, 10:26 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craZivn View Post
You sure know a lot about these guns, again thanks for the info! I have the o-rings sitting on my desk, just waiting for the time to replace them.

One more question. Is it safe to hook up HPA to this gun for testing purposes? My Crossfire puts out right around 700PSI, which is less than CO2 is capable of but since the SMG is designed to run on liquid I'm not certain if there are complications.

Ivan
My obsession is with the 68-Special that followed the SMG-68. I have done and am still doing extensive research on it and it's components. This forced me to chase data on the SMGs as well. Siphon fed systems were ahead of their time.
I don't recommend HPA. With the proper seals and a good mainspring you will blow the internal gas line before it cycles. The long 1/16 line can transfer the liquid CO2 faster than the marker can fire as a little liquid CO2 has a lot of stored energy. In fact there is a lot of extra energy waste shown in the cloud and dry ice flakes on normal function. Regular non-siphoned CO2 gas has a pressure of ~860 @ 72 degrees and will not reliably cycle a properly functioning marker. Hammer won't always catch and it can run away. The line is not likely to fail with the chilled CO2 gas and subsequent pressure drop. If you use pneumatic tools you will know how quickly air friction can heat them up. HPA will quickly generate the heat in this 1/16 plastic line. At 70 degrees this line has a working pressure of 1000 PSI and a burst of 3000 PSI which is one of the reasons not to have a 3K burst disc on your CO2 tank. The tubes strength rapidly drops with increase in temperature it will fail on a runaway using HPA. The good news is that your 7 oz siphon tank does not have to be re-certified, unless you live in Canada. A note on siphons, on attaching it to the marker, before you load paint, point the marker up and rapidly dry fire three times. This wets the system(fills the valve with liquid). The marker is ready to load with paint. To properly remove a tank, turn tank 3/4 turn counterclockwise(closes the tanks pin valve) and dry fire the gas still in the marker. This will greatly extend the life of the tanks O-ring.
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Old 04-24-2017, 11:45 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Old 04-26-2017, 07:26 PM   #19 (permalink)
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The SMGs originally did not run siphons.
But late in 1988, or maybe early 1989, Tippmann started offering "All Weather Tanks" as an option. I remember it was spring of 89 when they showed up at our field for the SMG-60.

Some of those guns were running close to 400 on those tanks, which fields would often allow since it allowed them to match the range of the .68 guns. But getting hit close would easily break the skin. I had some scars that lasted 3-4 years.

Fortunately with the 68-special, Tippmann designed it with the siphon in mind, and honestly it was the most reliable gun of its era.
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Old 05-01-2017, 11:47 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Well I did it! Tonight I took the gun down and replaced every o-ring I could access! I was very careful and took a lot of photos as well.

The only hitch was that the little piece of protective lead was missing and the set screw had marred the threads a bit on the end cap. But I cleaned them up with a few careful strokes of the needle file and it threads smoothly. I didn't have any lead solder on hand that was the right size, so I used a bit of plastic sheathing that I stripped off some wire instead. It's not like the gun is going into heavy action, so I left the set screw on the lighter side of snug to make sure it's well clear of the cap threads.

I also removed the mess of electrician's tape that was wrapped around the magazine cap and got that cleaned up. And put a brand new mag spring on. BTW Newegg.com (yeah the electronics site!) has brand new SMG magazine springs! I think I paid around $20 for two of them with shipping.

I couldn't have done it without this site, and StrayBlackCat's knowledge in particular! I can't wait to get some CO2 now. Thank you so much for the guidance!

Will upload pics tomorrow, for now I gotta take a shower and wind down for the night.

Ivan
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