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What Is It? Even after cleaning off the dust.... Still don't know what you have? Let the knowledgeable old-timers help you out

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Old 05-01-2017, 11:49 PM   #21 (permalink)
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That co2 tank will be hydro exempt in Canada too, it's below 61 cubic inches capacity. It's end-of-life will be 25 years from the manufacture date stamped on it.
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Old 05-02-2017, 02:28 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Heard contrary to the hydro exempt from other Canadian forum members but that would be mute as I do not believe that any siphon 7oz is newer than 25 years old. In the US there is no end-of-life for this tank. Only physical damage would warrant removal from service.

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Well I did it! Tonight I took the gun down and replaced every o-ring I could access!

Ivan
I am guessing this did not include the valve. When You do this is what is inside. Keep the cup and seal sets together.
Picture 1
The pin under the valve holds it in. 1/8 punch to remove. Use the correct wrench to remove snap rings. The brass surface can damage easily. Clean outside of valve and inside of receiver and oil. Valve body must move. On replacing the pin, keep cut side down so it won't shave the valve, an issue that caused the pin to be replaced with a C valve retainer on later 68-Specials.
Picture 2
Hope these help.
Attached Images
File Type: png valveint.png (86.7 KB, 78 views)
File Type: jpg valveoring.jpg (133.8 KB, 76 views)
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Old 05-02-2017, 01:43 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I did the valve internals, but didn't remove the valve physically from the receiver. Is the 1/16" line flexible enough to allow the valve to back out of the receiver without kinking, generally?

I replaced all the valve internal o-rings, but I see that I may have damaged the front o-ring because I removed everything through the back of the valve, your info says the middle of the valve area is unfinished and could compromise the o-ring. So I'll probably replace that one again while I have the valve out, just to be safe.

I was careful to keep the seals, spring and seats in the same order and orientation as they were when removed.

I have band practice right after work tonight so I dont think I'll have time to get my new pics uploaded, but hoping to over the next couple evenings!

Again, your knowledge continues to be invaluable and I'm thoroughly enjoying learning about this gun.

Ivan
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Old 05-03-2017, 12:17 AM   #24 (permalink)
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The gas line is pretty tough and flexible. Have regularly backed them out to clean and oil the outside of the valves and inside the receiver on all my 68s without any problems. Hook the center of the line and lift as you back the valve out. Just remember that yours has a 1/8 roll pin directly under the valve that must be carefully removed first to get the valve body out. To avoid marring use a 1/8 punch to tap it back out the side it was driven into. Replace on same side.
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Old 05-03-2017, 04:45 PM   #25 (permalink)
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the internal gas lines are VERY tough to prove this back in the day the designer of this put a blow torch on a full CO2 tank and we sat watching the line expand...it didn't rupture.
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Old 05-04-2017, 11:05 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Uploaded more pics to the Photobucket account, there are more in the 'Bucket library but here are the highlights.

I noticed that the receiver around the valve looks like it has been battered by the tube that houses the hammer, which made me sad. Guessing the rear cap was loose while the gun was being used at some point? Or maybe the wear is normal, I don't know.

Other than that it looked good, the valve and receiver had a thin coat of grease which I wiped off and replenished even though it looked clean. I left the new front o-ring alone for now, if it proves to be compromised I can always replace it later. Thanks to theoringstore's minimum quantity policies, I have extras!

I don't want to use the original tank because I want to keep it in it's current condition, if anything I'll buy a brand new tank and install a siphon in it.

I've read that the magazine can become deformed from firing due to an inherent design flaw which was not present in the SMG60. Should I therefore not cycle the gun with the magazine installed? Do I risk damaging the magazine by testing the gun out with paint?

I have a terrible desire to shoot this thing now but I have an even greater terror of ruining it.

Ivan












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Old 05-05-2017, 03:19 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Like I said,that marker is in great shape. The mainspring looks new. The marks on the receiver do not go 360 degrees, I suspect that is factory machining to square the face of the receiver to match the tube. Marks are not consistent with vibration/impact damage.
The deformation of the magazine is due to the thin metal of the magazines. This is unavoidable but happens over time. The magazine must be in place to fire. The front poppet needs something to press against for the valve to function, FYI: Empty clips will not advance. The marker will dry fire but it must have a ball to create backpressure to move the clip latch and allow the clip to advance. On a full 7oz tank you will only get 225 shots, You will not bend the magazine. If the marker is stock, It should fire semi-auto only. Full auto was available when the SMG-68 trigger as changed to a SMG-60 trigger. This was not a factory option. The SMG-60 trigger has a metal extension on the back to keep the sear from resetting when the trigger was fully depressed.
Using the 7oz should not change it. No re-certification is needed. The bigger risk is the filler putting 9oz of CO2 as the external dimensions are the same and they are more common than 7oz tanks. To check siphon, hold tank by ASA and swing it side to side, it should clank. Tipping the tank top to bottom and back, nothing should be sliding. The siphon tanks have a flexible plastic line with a shrink tubing wrapped push terminator on the end to act as a weight. Tippmann's back then were rugged. It takes a lot to break them. Have fun!
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Old 05-06-2017, 02:55 PM   #28 (permalink)
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These things are friggin cool. I should sell mine to pay for tuition, haha...
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Old 05-11-2017, 05:46 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Finally got to look at the pictures. Your marker is the original factory semi-auto only. Tippmann would grind off the tab on remaining SMG-60 stock for the new SMG-68 and the soon to be 68-Special. Tippmann never made this series full auto. Owners that did not convert swapped out the trigger for a SMG-60 trigger for full auto but this is hard on the magazine.
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File Type: jpg SMGtrigger.jpg (190.4 KB, 26 views)
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