Troubleshooting issues after the adjuster is installed.
Plastic revolver clamshell does not want to go back together after adjuster installed:
Tighten the rear brass aired-up indicator housing screw a bit more, or remove some plastic material from where the brass screw slides into the clamshells.
Leaks out of the back of the gun:
Is the leak coming from around the adjuster screw? If YES, make sure the adjuster screw isn't screwed too far in. The adjuster screw should never be screwed in further than flush with with the back of the gun (the plastic shell). Any further and you risk pushing the o-ring passed the 0.5mm dump chamber fill hole.
Else if YES, the leak is being caused by either the M1.0x7.5 o-ring on the bronze adjuster housing, or the M2.0x3.0 o-ring on the stainless de-volumizing plunger. Replace and re-grease the o-rings. Use DOW-55 grease on the M1.0x7.5 o-ring, and DOW-55 in the M2.0x3.0 o-ring grove, and DOW-111 on top of the o-ring after installed. If leaks still exist, try using some PTFE (teflon) tape in the o-ring grove before installing the o-ring.
If NO, is the leak coming from around the factory brass aired-up indicator housing screw? If YES, make sure it is fully and firmly threaded in, and if so, replace that o-ring (M1.0x12 (1.00MM CS, 12.00MM ID, 14.00MM OD)).
Gun jackhammers/farts/bolt sticks when fired:
Did you lube the gun when apart? If YES, did you use a thick grease? If YES, remove the grease. Use only very light grease or oil. These guns are very sensitive to friction, due to their unregulated/on-off less valve design. If the bolt moves too slow, the dump chamber will refill too quickly, causing the bolt to jackhammer/fart/stick until the rapid release of CO2 causes a pressure drop due to chilling, and finally allows the bolt to reset.
If excess/thick grease is not the problem, make sure you are firmly pulling the trigger completely back. There is a small area in the trigger pull where it is possible to hold the sear down without resetting, causing the bolt to free float/cycle. Pulling the trigger completely back (or releasing the trigger) will reset the sear and stop the bolt.
If none of those fix the problem, replace the M1.5x8.0 o-ring. This o-ring seals off the dump chamber, allowing it to fill only from the small 0.5mm fill hole. Lube this o-ring only with oil, and make sure the rear brass screw is tight and firmly compressing the o-ring. However, do not over tighten/compress the o-ring, or it may pinch out of place and allow another air path into the dump chamber.
Jackhammering/farting may still occasionally occur even if everything else is correct when the velocity adjuster screw is far into the gun. This is because of the significantly reduced dump chamber volume being able to fill faster, even when being restricted by the 0.5mm fill hole.
The gun is aired up, but nothing happens when I pull the trigger:
Screw the adjuster out a bit, as it is screwed in too far, and the o-ring is sealing off the 0.5mm dump chamber fill hole.
Plastic revolver clamshell does not want to go back together after adjuster installed:
Tighten the rear brass aired-up indicator housing screw a bit more, or remove some plastic material from where the brass screw slides into the clamshells.
Leaks out of the back of the gun:
Is the leak coming from around the adjuster screw? If YES, make sure the adjuster screw isn't screwed too far in. The adjuster screw should never be screwed in further than flush with with the back of the gun (the plastic shell). Any further and you risk pushing the o-ring passed the 0.5mm dump chamber fill hole.
Else if YES, the leak is being caused by either the M1.0x7.5 o-ring on the bronze adjuster housing, or the M2.0x3.0 o-ring on the stainless de-volumizing plunger. Replace and re-grease the o-rings. Use DOW-55 grease on the M1.0x7.5 o-ring, and DOW-55 in the M2.0x3.0 o-ring grove, and DOW-111 on top of the o-ring after installed. If leaks still exist, try using some PTFE (teflon) tape in the o-ring grove before installing the o-ring.
If NO, is the leak coming from around the factory brass aired-up indicator housing screw? If YES, make sure it is fully and firmly threaded in, and if so, replace that o-ring (M1.0x12 (1.00MM CS, 12.00MM ID, 14.00MM OD)).
Gun jackhammers/farts/bolt sticks when fired:
Did you lube the gun when apart? If YES, did you use a thick grease? If YES, remove the grease. Use only very light grease or oil. These guns are very sensitive to friction, due to their unregulated/on-off less valve design. If the bolt moves too slow, the dump chamber will refill too quickly, causing the bolt to jackhammer/fart/stick until the rapid release of CO2 causes a pressure drop due to chilling, and finally allows the bolt to reset.
If excess/thick grease is not the problem, make sure you are firmly pulling the trigger completely back. There is a small area in the trigger pull where it is possible to hold the sear down without resetting, causing the bolt to free float/cycle. Pulling the trigger completely back (or releasing the trigger) will reset the sear and stop the bolt.
If none of those fix the problem, replace the M1.5x8.0 o-ring. This o-ring seals off the dump chamber, allowing it to fill only from the small 0.5mm fill hole. Lube this o-ring only with oil, and make sure the rear brass screw is tight and firmly compressing the o-ring. However, do not over tighten/compress the o-ring, or it may pinch out of place and allow another air path into the dump chamber.
Jackhammering/farting may still occasionally occur even if everything else is correct when the velocity adjuster screw is far into the gun. This is because of the significantly reduced dump chamber volume being able to fill faster, even when being restricted by the 0.5mm fill hole.
The gun is aired up, but nothing happens when I pull the trigger:
Screw the adjuster out a bit, as it is screwed in too far, and the o-ring is sealing off the 0.5mm dump chamber fill hole.
Comment